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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2010 Posts: 34 Points: 105 Location: Copthorne, West Sussex
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Hi all, Just a couple of rows to go until I can sand the hull  !! My build does not look anywhere as perfect as Tomick's and therefore I do have some gaps, dents and places to fill to get the smoothest finish possible. In what order would you sand the hull? What I mean is would you fill all the gaps and dents first and then begin sanding with a medium grade and then a fine grade sandpaper OR would you sand then fill and then sand again? Also can anyone recommend a good filler and is it necessary to seal or coat the hull at any stage if I will be painting it? Many thanks in advance. Eoin
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi Eoin, I would fill in all your gaps and dents first. For large gaps, shape pieces of planking and glue them in, for other dents use Ronseal wood filler great product it does not shrink and you can sand it easily. When dry you can sand it using medium then fine, when you are happy with the finish give it a coat of sanding sealer, you also want to tile the Hull. I hope that helps best of luck with your build Mike MWG attached the following image(s): MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/09/2010 Posts: 175 Points: 517 Location: Durban RSA
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Hin Eoin
I would not spend a lot of time and effort to use filler until you have done the first sanding with a fairly course sandpaper and then a medium grade paper.
I found that to my surprise that a lot of the flaws are sanded out after the first sanding.
Happy building
Athol
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 Rank: Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi Eoin
Another method of filling that is sometimes used is to mix your sawdust with a diluted form of the glue you are using to build your Victory. Just mix until it is a fine paste and use where required. It has the advantage of being a good colour match as well. As mentioned above, filling the larger gaps with shaped plank offcuts and sanding down when dry is another method that I've used with success.
Hope this helps a little
Happy building
David
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2010 Posts: 34 Points: 105 Location: Copthorne, West Sussex
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Thanks MWG, Atholm and daffy09 for your input. Three different ideas and all sound great. Not sure what I will do yet but will be making a decision as soon as I can finish the last few planks and finish lining the windows.
I already have a 100ml pot of Super filler by J.Perkins that you can find on cormwall model boats. Will this one be ok? I'm guessing it won't need to be thinned and can just be applied directly?
MWG - when you advised i finish by giving my boat a coat of sanding sealer, is this keeping in mind that I will be painting my boat? I don't think I will be copper tiling the hull, too expensive. Just copper paint for me.
Also last question, when you refer to coarse, medium and fine sandpaper what grades are you talking about? I have a sheet of P80, what would that be?
Cheers all
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/04/2010 Posts: 1,266 Points: 3,841 Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
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That is a coarse grade,basically the higher the number the finer the grade,I have some at 2500 grit,if you look on ebay there are all sorts of deals for various quantities & grades,bear in mind you will get through a lot of it,although worn out coarse paper can be used again as a finer paper. Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!Current Builds: HMS Victory, SV Thermopylae
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I would fill any large 'dips' with plank first as described above then sand with a medium. I would advise against using coarse as you will then have to sand out the scratches the coarse paper leaves. Once you have done first sand go around hull and fill. do another medium sand then move to fine. When it feels and looks like glass your done. Another tip is to run a vacuum with the soft brush attachment over the sanded area regularly as the sanding dust can fill gaps that re-appear. Not sure if you have to seal after sanding if you paint but I did, bear in mind that wood is absorbant so may help your paint coverage if you seal first. J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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HI David
you have a good idea there to use sawdust from the sanding and diluted glue
my question how do I collect the dust or do I just leave the dust on the modle and add the diluted glue
Ronald
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ronald305 wrote: HI David
you have a good idea there to use sawdust from the sanding and diluted glue
my question how do I collect the dust or do I just leave the dust on the modle and add the diluted glue
Ronald Hi Ronald, collect your sanding dust into any container with a lid thats a suitable size. when you want to make your filler put some drops of wood glue in something like a plastic milk bottle top. add a bit of water and mix with an old brush then with a cocktail stick stir in a pinch of the wood dust at a time until you have a thick past suitable for filling your gaps. it will be sandal after so don't worry about building the filler hight than the surface Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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