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 Rank: Beginner Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2018 Posts: 17 Points: 54
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Hello everyone, my name is Daniel, I'm from Germany and I would like to join in with a build diary (since I'm not a native speaker I appologize for any mistakes and possible missunderstandings in advance). I started to build the HMS Victory Cross-section (and the ship). This is my first attempt in building a modell ship at all. I actually wanted to to the full ship first, but it seemed to get some experience the Cross-section would be a little easier to begin with. So for reasons of variety (the planking took quite a while since you only could glue one plank at a time) I started the full ship, too (beginning is easy with fast progress). I expect to have some questions at a lot of points in time (and you guys already helped me with some things) and having a diary helps to follow up and some requested a diary I'll try my best to keep it up and to finish (which will be the bigger challenge for me). I could get a hold of the magazines which were sold on the internet (and which are awesome by the way, lots of well written and researched stories and background information, to bad the package now comes without the magazines). So I follow the instructions in the magazines (and look at the offcial diary or the youtube video diary some times). I started with gluing the ribs very carefully with pins to a rubber mat (those mats you usally put unterneath the washing machine to eliminate vibration), wich worked fine. I copied the plan a couple times so I could glue some more parallel. I then put it together wich was easy with the slightly thined down glue and the spacers. (At this point I was a little disappointed, the ripparts were a little bent, I hope this won't turn out to be a problem at some point). Well, the planking startet. (Some of the planks were bent, too. I don't know if this is common or because the set is about 7 years old.) So there was a lot of sanding action to get no gaps (I want to stain at least the lower part). And I am now just below the gunports (finished stage 4). And I'm wondering already if I did something wrong, in the magazine, the last plank ends just flush with the rip which shows me where the gunport starts and I only have a half rip left to glue (I haven't read stage 5 jet) it's about 2mm on one and 3-4 on the other side. So here are some pictures for you... See you next time, Dan Lord-Obsidian attached the following image(s):
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Hi Dan,
Nice to see your cross section build. Looking at where you are at this point, what you might have is some planks are slightly wider than others and by the time you have placed 15 etc it can make a difference.
If you want to have it set to the top of the ribs like it says in the instructions there is no reason why you can make a plank to fit so it is flush with the rib. You wont see that its been done as its one of the black bandings plus its just above a wale so would be painted black. You mention you are staining the lower so this correction wouldn't affect your ideas.
Also , quick word of caution the spacer it says to place at the top of the ribs, try to keep it there as much as you can as these ribs tend to creep apart at the top creating a problem at a later stage with the deck beams.
Hope all this info helps
good luck .
ChrisOn the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Nice start and have fun with your build  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Great start, looking good. Mark
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Great to see your build and a lovely start you've made too... Look forward to seeing more.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Administration       Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,264 Points: 23,880 Location: East midlands
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Looks like you are off to a great start. Well done. Congratulations on your "Blue" medal for starting a build diary. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Great progress Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2018 Posts: 17 Points: 54
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Thank you guys for your nice welcoming!! So do the planks have to be flush with the top of the ribs or is this optional? I could keep on going and use a file? As I asked in a different post, I want to try to stain the whole model, even if this means I would have to stain planks before gluing them to the ribs (and varnish later). I would like it to look like this: https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTA2N1gxNjAw/z/R9wAAOSwHoFXr6~U/$/HMS-VICTORY-Cross-Section-Handmade-Wooden-Ship-Model-_57.jpgI am aware, that the black parts would only be the planks glued on top of others, I wouldn't use black but a dark nut as well and that the black stripes would be much thinner than in the original. So the idea is, at that stage where I am now, to stain the planks (AND the ribs) and apply varnish so no further stain would soak into the wood. All the other (except the deck planking) then has to be stained before gluing ist to the ribs. That is why I am wondering if I can add a full plank or have to add a half one. So I went to the store and bought some stain and made some samples (see pictures below). IMO it looks pretty. You have probably finished yours by now, is anybody willing to share a picutre where I can see, where the second layer of planks (black) are glued on the hull? I now would add yellow planks almost all the way to the top (green line). Is there a second layer in the green and the pink circle? (Since this is a model space picture I hope it's fine to use it). What do you guys think? Is this achievable for a beginner? Last question: I bought this plank cutter, so I would have to do a minimum on sanding for the upcoming planking since I would stain the ribs now and they would be very sensitive to sandpaper). I am not happy with this at all, the cuts are not straight, as if the blade twists while cuttin through the wood. Any experience with this? Did I get a faulty one? Have a great weekend Dan File Attachment(s): Lord-Obsidian attached the following image(s):
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Looking good and nicely done the planking I would over plank and sand it back to match the top of the bulwarks. As for staining your correct it would need to be done before assembly to prevent bleed and cant see a problem the way you propose to do it. Another stain you could use for the black is ebony or even use drawing ink to stain the wood. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Hi,
The planks are of course up to you if you want to cut into it instead of using half a plank.
Or you could remove 2 planks then plank down from the top of that rib to meet your planks and use an infill plank. That would then be covered over by the 2nd layer wales problem solved.
You can find where to start planking the black bands in stage 28 - https://www.model-space..../download/file_id/3685/
Just a word of caution though, the black bands are not just the wales painted it also goes onto the main planks of the hull.
The amati cutter is good but its only for rough cutting its not a precise cutter.
ChrisOn the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice build, well done
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2018 Posts: 17 Points: 54
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magpie1832 wrote:Hi,
The planks are of course up to you if you want to cut into it instead of using half a plank. I was wondering if it doesn't work out at the top if I'm wrong now and it was supposed to be flush with the rib to come out good on top. magpie1832 wrote:
Or you could remove 2 planks then plank down from the top of that rib to meet your planks and use an infill plank. That would then be covered over by the 2nd layer wales problem solved.
That would acutally be my favorite solution if I wasn't afraid to have a hard time making a perfect fit for the filling plank. Thank you! I'm aware of that and will have smaller black stripes then it is supposed to be, but the look of a stained model weights more for me than having it matching the original. I'll have to keep on thinking about it... thank you! arpurchase wrote:
Another stain you could use for the black is ebony or even use drawing ink to stain the wood
Well, that would have been a cheap solution. Stain ain't that cheap ;-)
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To do the infill plank, remove 2 planks and clean up area, then place temporarily 2 planks back were you removed them.
Place a plank on top of those and draw a line along the top of the ribs then cut that plank along that line.
Remove the 2 temp planks and fit the cut down plank then the 2 planks above it. That should give you the correct height.
ChrisOn the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2018 Posts: 17 Points: 54
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Thank you for your advice! What is the best way to remove planks? (I didn't add glue to the edges - only at the ribs, the magazines told so, in the diary it's done differently) I'm not sure if I got you right, but I you want me to start from where I am supposed to end (bottom of opening) to go to full planks down and the third would be the fittet one? It would sit there where the second from top right now is sitting? I took a glance at the upcoming phase. It sais I got 19 1,5 x 5mm and 14 2,0 x 5mm planks. I do have 33 planks, but there is hardy any difference between them. Even if I sort out the ones slightly thicker and use the 1,5 x 8mm as a benchmark I can't find no diferrence between them... Does this matter (Except for the 3mm placeholder for the keel)? I ordered some spare 2,0 x 5mm in a shop, they are even thicker than the thickest I got in the package... In the back of the picture you can see the 1,5 x 8mm I used as a benchmark... Lord-Obsidian attached the following image(s):
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Lord-Obsidian wrote:Thank you for your advice!
What is the best way to remove planks?
(I didn't add glue to the edges - only at the ribs, the magazines told so, in the diary it's done differently)
I'm not sure if I got you right, but I you want me to start from where I am supposed to end (bottom of opening) to go to full planks down and the third would be the fittet one? It would sit there where the second from top right now is sitting?
I took a glance at the upcoming phase.
It sais I got 19 1,5 x 5mm and 14 2,0 x 5mm planks.
I do have 33 planks, but there is hardy any difference between them. Even if I sort out the ones slightly thicker and use the 1,5 x 8mm as a benchmark I can't find no diferrence between them...
Does this matter (Except for the 3mm placeholder for the keel)?
I ordered some spare 2,0 x 5mm in a shop, they are even thicker than the thickest I got in the package...
In the back of the picture you can see the 1,5 x 8mm I used as a benchmark... Yes you have it correct how I described to you. As for the planks. You do need to sort the thicker from the thinest as they are used for different things during the build. Sorry they all seem the same but they are just different. Chris On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2018 Posts: 17 Points: 54
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Since one option was to cut the gunports out, I'll go with that and hope I'll turn out well at the entry port and the top. The outside planking so far was done with the planks of 124, the inside planks are 2x5 from a shop. As there was no difference in the planks in 125 I use those from the shop, but they are thicker than the 2x5 from 124 ;-) So I had to do a little planing and reading (studied Tomicks Build Diary) to make a decision how to proceed. As I said I want all parts stained and I think I'm good to go now. I already stained the hull since I won't need that stain any more. And all the ribs. I also put on some varnish on the ribs to protect them from scratches and the stain from the inner planking. This means I cannot sand the planks flush to the ribs anymore and they have to make a perfect fit right away. As mentioned earlier I bought a plank cutter (returned it as the cuts are not straight). So I needed something else to make perfect cuts. So I bought a cutting invite (the only one I found for modelling tbh) and drilled holes in it and glued a nut into the frame so I can fix rests to make a perfect spacer. So far it worked fine. So for the outside every time the color changes I'll leave out a plank (so the stain doesn't bleed into other parts). I have to finish inside an outside planking around all ports (and their inside frames) to finish the stain as I will not be able to sand anything as soon as the stain is on. I hope this will work out ;-) Anyhow, I have to work a lot more carefully now, but not to have to sand the edges of the planks is a win... Lord-Obsidian attached the following image(s):
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Looking very nice. Great work.  Mark
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,264 Points: 23,880 Location: East midlands
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Looks good to me. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Very nice piece of work, she's coming along beautifully.... Regards Alan
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Nice work and looking good Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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