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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 128 Contains: Lantern Fret, Lantern Top, Lantern Base, Lantern Centre, Deadeyes 5x4mm, Brown thread 0.8mm.
Remove the parts ‘A’ and ‘B’ (as shown in Step 128A) from the Lantern Fret and file away any rough edges. Use the body of a marker to bend part ‘A’, creating a cylinder as shown in Step 128B inset photo. Apply some instant adhesive to the Lantern Top and attach to part ‘A’. Apply instant adhesive to the bottom edge of part ‘A’ and attach it to the Lantern Centre.
Use a smaller cylindrical or conical object to shape part ‘B’ into a cone. Apply glue to the bottom edge of the Lantern Centre and attach to part ‘B’. When dry, glue the Lantern Base onto the end of Part ‘B’ as shown in Step 128E. Follow Steps 128A to 128E to assemble the other lanterns from the parts received in Stages 126 and 127.
Retrieve 12 eyepins and the two launches. Make a small hole in the centre of each of the oarlocks and glue an eyepin into each hole. Cut the eyepins down so that they project only 2mm above the oarlocks. Retrieve the boat support frame and glue both launches onto the chocks, as shown in Step 128I. Glue the frame onto the main deck with the boats facing forward, as shown in Step 128J.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Important: From this stage forward carefully study the instructions, mast and rigging plans to see what is required for each step so as not to overlook anything which may lead to problems further on in the build.
Stage 129 Contains: Bowsprit Plan, Bowsprit, Cleats, Bowsprit Top Trestle Trees, Bowsprit Top Cross Trees, Bowsprit Top, Bowsprit Top Ribs, Lower Mast, Bowsprit Topmast Trestle Trees, Bowsprit Topmast Cross Trees, Bowsprit Topgallant Mast, Spritsail Yard, Battens, Bowsprit Top Yard, Yard Supports, Blocks 4mm.
Take the Bowsprit and cut it to match the length of the one shown on the Bowsprit plan. The masts should be slightly tapered. To obtain this difference in diameter between the two ends, rotate one end of the mast under a sanding block, as shown in Step 129B, pressing down harder on the block as it gets closer to the end of the mast. Regularly check the piece against the Bowsprit plan to avoid over-working the wood.
When you have tapered the end to the correct size, smooth the piece with fine grain sandpaper. Check that the length, angles and tapering of the Bowsprit are all correct before proceeding.
Prepare the six cleats, then glue them into position on the Bowsprit. Make sure to check against the Bowsprit plan for the correct size, shape and placement.
Remove the Bowsprit Top from the fret received in this stage. Prepare the ribs from the strip also received in the stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper, then glue them together as shown in Step 129F. Step 129G shows how the Bowsprit and the Bowsprit Top should look at the end of this stage.
Retrieve all remaining gun port lids, eyepins and 3mm rings. Pass the rings into the loops of the eyepins. Make a small hole near the top of each of the lids and pass an eyepin through it, up to the loop then trim off the end of the pin. Hold one of the lids above one of the gun ports at an angle of around 45 degrees, as shown in Step 129H. Glue the lid and pin in place, then repeat the process for the other lids and ports. Fit two gun port lids to the two ports at the bow.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 130 Contains: Slings, Mast Caps, Sprit Topmast, Top Caps, Parrel Ropes, braces, Strapping, Blocks, Double Blocks, Fore Topmast, Fore Topgallant Mast. Stops.
Retrieve the fret supplied with Stage 129 and extract the two longer bars. Smooth them with sandpaper and paint the edges with the same stain as used for previous wooden parts.
Retrieve the 2 x 2mm brown wooden strip supplied with Stage 129 to make the cross trees. Cut it into three lengths as shown by figure ‘B’ on the Bowsprit Mast Plan. Glue the two trestletrees over the three cross trees, as shown in Step 130B and as indicated on the Bowsprit Mast Plan.
Retrieve the top prepared in the previous stage. Place the cross trees prepared in the previous step onto the underside as shown in Step 130C, trim the ends to fit within the edge of the top. Correctly position the parts according to the Bowsprit Mast Plan and then glue them together.
Remove the knee from the fret received with Stage 96. Smooth the edges and pain with wood stain, glue it and the lower mast to the end of the bowsprit in the position shown on the Bowsprit Mast Plan. Use a file to adjust the top end of the lower mast so that it will engage properly with the mast cap. Lower the larger (rear) hole of the top onto the mast so that the space for the top mast is in front of it, as shown in Step 130F, then glue the parts together.
Prepare the topmast as per the Bowsprit Mast Plan. Place the cap onto the top of the lower mast, then lower the topmast down through the front holes of the cap and top. Glue the parts together. Remove the two remaining trestletrees from the fret and prepare in the same way as the others. Assemble to topmast trees according to figure ‘A’ of the Bowsprit Mast Plan.
Prepare the topgallant mast and shape the end of the topmast to fit the cap. Lower the upper trees onto the topmast then pass the topgallant mast into the forward hole of the trees. Lower the cap over the topgallant mast and onto the topmast. Glue these parts together, then glue the top cap onto the end of the topgallant mast. When dry, paint the entire bowsprit with your preferred wood stain.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 131 Contents: Foremast Plan, Foremast, Rubbing Paunch and Cheeks, Bibs, Foretop Trestletrees, Foretop Crosstrees, Foretop, Foretop Ribs, Chock, Bibs, Fore Topmast Trestletrees, Fore Topgallant Trestletrees, Fore Yard, Battens, Fore Topmast Yard.
Shape the foremast according to the Foremast Plan. Prepare the rubbing paunch and cheeks so they match those shown on the plan, glue them to the foremast. The rubbing paunch should be positioned slightly higher. Sand the assembly and paint with clear varnish.
Remove the foretop, the trestletrees and the bibs from the fret received with this stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper and pain the edges with your chosen wood stain. Use figure ‘A’ on the Foremast plan to assemble the foretop. Smooth the assembly with sandpaper, then paint with clear varnish.
Recover one of the spools of 0.5mm brown thread. Prepare the eight bindings. Glue the end of one of the lengths to the mast, in the position shown on the Foremast Plan, then wrap it around the mast five times, gluing the other end in place. Cut off the excess when dry then fit the remaining seven bindings. Glue to two bibs into place above the cheeks then glue the foretop onto the tops of them.
Glue together the guns and carriages received in previous stages. Cut a 100mm length of 0.5mm brown thread for every cannon. Tie the middle of each length around the ends of the guns, as shown in the inset photo in Step 131G. Insert the muzzle of one of the cannons into a circular gun port, then create a small hole on each side of the gun carriage, as indicated in Step 131H. Glue an eyepin into each hole then tie the ends of the thread to them. Glue the cannons in place with instant adhesive. Repeat this process to fit the cannons to the quarter and poop decks.
Now fit the forecastle deck cannons. Once the cannons are all in position glue to the decks with instant adhesive.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 132 Contents: Mast Cap, Fore Topmast Crosstrees, Topmast Cap, Fore Topgallant Crosstrees, Royal Mast Cap, Footropes, Parrel Rope, Bibs Main Top Trestletrees, Maintop, Main Topmast Trestletrees, Main Topgallant Trestletrees.
Prepare the natural thread for the lines and the blocks received from previous stages. Pass the thread around the block, placed in the groove as shown in Step 132A, then tie it off and secure it with a drop of glue. Twist the two ends of the thread together, depending on how long the straight length needs to be according to the plan. The lanyards should be prepared in the same way but with 0.5mm brown thread. Prepare all the blocks for the bowsprit. Fit all of the prepared single and double blocks to the bowsprit as well as the lanyards.
Use a round file to smooth the hole for the Bowsprit. Be careful not to overdo it, you only need to make sure the Bowsprit can fit, so don’t widen the hole unless necessary. Insert the Bowsprit into the hole.
The dotted red lines shown in Step 132F indicate the Bowsprit gammoning. Open holes in the grating below (shown on the larger inset photo) to create space for these lines to pass through. Fit an eyepin into the end of the bowsprit, as shown in the smaller inset photo and glue the bowsprit into place.
Collect four barrels into two pairs, glue them together and then bind them with 0.15mm natural thread. Glue one pair on the poop deck and glue a third barrel next to them, as shown in Step 132H. Arrange another group of three barrels on the forecastle deck.
Use 0.15mm natural thread to create the gripes used to secure the boats to the frame. Tie one end to the eyepin indicated in Step 132J, then follow the arrows, passing the line through the other pins then bringing it back to the first and tying it off.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 133 Contents: Mainmast Plan, Mainmast, Rubbing Paunch and Cheeks, Main Top Crosstrees, Main Top Ribs, Main Topmast, Main Topgallant Mast, Brown 0.8mm Thread, Blocks 4mm, Double Blocks 4mm.
Remove the bibs, fore topmast trestletrees and fore topgallant trestletrees from the fret received with Stage 131. Smooth them with sandpaper and paint the edges with your chosen wood stain. Assemble the foremast, fore topgallant mast and fore royal masf according to the Foremast Plan. The chock should go through the bottom of the topmast, as shown on the inset photo in Step 133B. Test fit the parts before gluing them.
Shape the top of the foremast to fit into the mast cap. Test fit the foremast and topmast together, make any adjustments necessary then glue them together. Now test fit the topmast and topgallant mast together, glue them together when satisfied with the fit. Step 133E shows how the foremast should now look – assembled but still lacking blocks.
Trim and shape the spritsail yard and the spritsail topyard. They should be tapered at each end as shown on the Bowsprit Plan. Prepare the battens and glue them to the spritsail yard, then repeat for the topyard and battens. Fit the blocks and rigging parts to the two yards, following the Bowsprit Plan.
Hold the spritsail topyard to the topmast and secure in place with the parrel rope. Repeat the process for the spritsail yard, securing it to the bowsprit with the parrel rope.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 134 Contents: Bindings, Mast Cap, Main Topmast Crosstrees, Topmast Cap, Main Topgallant Crosstrees, Topgallant Mast Cap, Main Yard, Battens, Parrel Ropes, Slings, Footropes, Main Topmast Yard, Blocks 4mm, Lines.
Recover the balcony columns, the face/pillar decorations and supports, the column decorations and the port and starboard supports, as indicated by the various coloured arrows in Step 134A. Prepare the parts as before and glue them into place.
Retrieve the lanterns and glue a short length of 1.5mm brass wire into the hole at the bottom of each one, as shown in the inset photo in Step 134B. Drill a small 1.5mm hole in the poop rails at the points indicated in Step 134B and glue two of the lanterns into the holes. Glue the third lantern into the hole in the lantern base on the transom.
Prepare the two stern statues from Stages 120 and 121 and glue them to each side of the upper balcony as shown in Step 134C.
Shape the three foremast yards and fit their battens. Paint the assemblies with clear varnish. Fit the blocks and rigging to the three yards. To make the stirrups, create a twisted length of brass wire with a loop at the end, as shown in the inset photo in Step 134E.
As you will notice on the foremast plan and in Step 134F, the parrel ropes are slightly different on each yard with the fore yard being doubled with trucks and parrel beads fitted. Make sure you follow the plan to ensure that small changes like this are not overlooked.
Fit all the blocks to the foremast following the foremast plan. To fit the fore yard, first check you have the correct placement then wrap the parrel ropes (with trucks and beads) around the back of the mast and back around the yard. Tie off and secure them with a drop of glue, cutting away the excess. Fit the fore topyard and fore topgallant yard to their positions on the foremast.
Lower the foremast into the hole in the forecastle. Adjust the size of the hole if necessary. Once the mast is in place, with the yards at the front, glue it into position.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 135 Contents: Mizzenmast Plan, Mizzenmast, Rubbing Paunch and Battens, Bibs, Mizzen Trestletrees and Crosstrees, Mizzen top, Mizzen Top Ribs, Mizzen Topmast Trestletrees, Mizzen Yard, Battens, Mizzen Topyard, Lines.
Prepare the mainmast sections and yards following the Mainmast Plan. Fit the battens to the yards then paint all the pieces with clear varnish. Fit the rubbing paunch, cheeks and the bindings to the mainmast then assemble the main top. Fit the main topmast and mast cap into the place. Complete the rest of the mast and glue together.
Fit the blocks, stirrups, rigging and parrel ropes to the three yards. Step 135E shows how the yards should look when the various parts are fitted.
Attach the yards to the mast, the same way that you fitted the yards to the foremast, making sure you follow the mainmast plan. Insert the bottom of the mast into the hole in the deck, as shown in Step 135G. Adjust the size of the hole if necessary and once the mast is in place, with the yards at the front, glue it into position.
Retrieve the headrails from Stages 124 and 125, smooth them with sandpaper. Soak them in water for a few minutes then take them out and wipe off the excess. Hold them in the position shown in Step 135H, bending them slightly to shape them. Apply glue to the contact points then clamp the headrails in position. Wait for everything to dry before continuing.
Recover eight headrail columns from Stages 119, 124, 125 and 126. Glue four columns onto each headrail as indicated in Step 135J then glue two of the decorations from Stages 106 and 107 to the forecastle, again as indicated in Step 135J.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 136 Contents: Mizzenmast Plan, Mast Cap, Mizzen Topmast Crosstrees, Topmast Cap, Mizzen Topgallant Mast, Crossjack Yard, Flagpole, Blocks 5mm, Parrel Tracks, Brown Thread 0.8mm.
Retrieve the materials needed to build the mizzenmast. Follow the mizzenmast plan to assemble the mast, as before. Assemble the mizzen yard, crossjack yard, mizzen topyard and flagpole. Remove the two remaining pieces from the fret received in Stage 96. Sand them smooth, paint them black and glue them in place. When dry, lower the flagpole through them and glue into place. Drill four holes in the poop deck and glue an eyepin into each. Drill eight holes in the rails and glue a belaying pin into each of them. Step 136C shows the positions for all of these items.
Drill six holes into the rails in the positions shown in Step 136D then glue a belaying pin into each of the holes. Place the mizzenmast into the hole in the quarterdeck and attach the mizzen yard, cross jack yard and mizzen topyard to it. Glue the mast into position.
Look at section ‘A’ on the rigging plan. To start the gammoning, glue one end of the thread to the holes in the beak, pass up through the grating, over the bowsprit, back down through the grating and then through the beak again. Repeat this five or six times. After you have fitted both gammonings wrap a length of thread around each one, as shown in Step 136F, secure with a drop of glue.
Tie six 5mm deadeyes to the bowsprit top, passing the bindings through the holes at the sides. Tie a deadeye to each end of the shrouds and pass them between the top and topgallant masts, behind the yard. Pull the shrouds until they are equal lengths either side. Pass the lanyards between the sets of deadeyes.
Create the foremast shrouds, passing them through the foretop and between the foremast and fore topmast. The deadeyes at the ends of the shrouds will be connected to the deadeyes on the chainwales. Start rigging the lanyards between the sets of deadeyes.
Step 136J shows how the shrouds of the foremast should now look. Glue the stave to the shrouds at the points indicated.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 137 Contents: Spritsail, Sprit Topsail, Flags, Thread for Ratlines, Blocks 4mm.
Create lengths of 1mm brass wire to fit along the centres of the headrails as shown in Step 137A. Bend them to fit the curvature and then glue them into place. Paint the headrail and lengths of wire with gold paint, don’t paint the columns.
Recover the headrail columns and decorations from Stage 124 and 125, as well as the figurehead from Stage 111. Paint the figurehead gold then prepare the pieces as before. Glue them into position when dry as shown in Step 137C. Prepare the transom decorations from Stages 122 and 123 and glue them into place, as shown in Step 137D.
Start rigging the ratlines across the shrouds, following figure ‘A’ on the rigging plan. Complete the rest of the shrouds, ratlines and staves. Tie the blocks to the shrouds (at the points indicated on the rigging plan) once they are complete. Create the futtock shrouds, top mast shrouds and ratlines following figure ‘B’ on the rigging plan. Step 137G shows how the upper parts of the masts should look with shrouds in place.
Now rig the bobstays and bowsprit stays according to figure ‘C’ on the rigging plan. Fit an eyepin to each of the anchor points shown in Step 137H then secure both sets of stays to the eyepins.
Now rig the stays, lanyards and blocks indicated in figure ‘C’ on the rigging plan. The mainmast stays are connected to each other via a lanyard and heart blocks, as detailed in the inset photo of Step 137I. The lanyard should pass between the two blocks a few times before being secured with glue. The bowsprit stay is connected to the sling on the bowsprit in the same way.
Continue rigging the stays as indicated in figure ‘C’ of the rigging plan.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 138 Contents: Foresail, Fore Topsail, Fore Topgallant Sail, Block 4mm.
To create bowsprit halyard, as shown in Figure ‘D’ of the rigging plan, tie the end of the line to the double block under the bowsprit, pass back through the double block in the middle of the bowsprit yard, then back through the first block. Pass the line through the blocks until each hole has a line through it and then pass back and tie off to the forward rail on the forecastle at the point indicated in Figure ‘Q’ of the rigging plan, also shown in Step 138C.
Repeat the process outlined in the previous step to rig the bowsprit topyard halyards, passing the ends of the lines back to the rail shown in Figure ‘Q’ of the rigging plan. Step 138C shows where the bowsprit halyards should be tied off. Some of the lines shown in figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ of the rigging plan will need to be tied to the pins indicated, the inset photo shows a clearer view of how this should be done, passing the line down behind the pin, then back up, crossing over and around the top, then back down.
Now rig the backstays. Add the blocks and lanyards where indicated in figure ‘D; of the rigging plan. The mizzen backstays should be secured to the hull with an eye pin. Be aware that some of the lines will need to be secured to each side of the ship. Now rig the backstays (164, 166 and 167). Add the 4mm Dead Eyes (J) and lanyards (165) where indicated in figure D of the rigging plan. The mizzen backstays (167) should be secured to the hull with an eye pin. Be aware that some of the lines will need to be secured to each side of the ship. All the halyards are rigged the same way, they must always fall behind the yards. Follow this rule, along with the instructions provided on the rigging plan and rig the remaining halyards as indicated in figure ‘E’.
To rig the lifts shown in figure ‘F’ of the rigging plan, glue one end of the line to the lift block on the mast. Then pass the other end through the upper block near the end of the yard and back through the first block, down through the lubber’s holes in the tops to the deck. Tie each of the lifts to the points marked in figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan.
To rig the bowsprit braces shown in figure ‘G’ of the rigging plan, first tie one end of the line to the stay. Then pass it forward and through the relevant blocks, back to the stay and through the single blocks on the stay. Tie off to the points indicated in figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan.
To rig the mizzen top braces shown in figure ‘J’ of the rigging plan, first tie the lines to the end of the mizzen yard. Pass them forward to the brace blocks hanging from the end of the mizzen topyard, back to the blocks at the end of the mizzen yard then down. Tie them to the points indicated in figure ‘P’ on the rigging plan.
Some lines, such as the cross jack yard braces will need to be tied off to the pinrail and to an eyepin on the outside of the hull. Follow the instructions in figures ‘G’ and ‘J’ of the rigging plan to rig the rest of the braces.
To make the crowfoot deadeyes, retrieve some leftover 2 x 5mm wooden strip and glue two 25mm lengths together. Drill three holes through them, carve a groove around them, then pass a line around them and tie it to the stay, as shown in the inset photo in Step 138J. Begin rigging the crowfoot by passing the line up through the top, down to the furthest hole on the deadeye, then back up to the outer hole. Then do the same with the next holes in from the edge and finally the innermost set of holes.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 139 Contents: Mail Sail, Main Topsail, Main Topgallant Sail, Blocks 4mm.
Take the sprit topsail and place the loops in the top corners over the ends of the sprit topmast yard. To make the robands, fit a needle to the line pass it through the top of the sail, then over the yard, working along the yard. Tie the ends in a knot once the sail is properly fixed. Fix a block to the loops in the clews (bottom corners) of the sail.
Tie the sheets to the loops in the clews. Tie the clewlines to the blocks near the middle of the yard, then pass the line down through the clew blocks, back up through the yard blocks, then down. Tie all the sheets and clewlines off at the points indicated in figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan. Repeat Steps 139A to 139C to fit the spritsail and robands, sheets and clewlines.
Secure the foresail, fore topsail and fore topgallant sail to the corresponding yards with the robands, as shown in figure ‘I’ on the rigging plan. Attach blocks to the clews. Tie the sheets to the top gallant and topsails. Remove the loops from the bottom of the fore sail and replace them with blocks, as shown in the inset photo in Step 139E.
Pass the sheets down through the holes in the yards below. Then pass them in towards the mast, through the blocks on the underside of the yard, then down and tie them off to the points indicated in Figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan.
Tie one end of the foresail sheet to the points marked in Figure ‘P’ of the rigging plan. Pass the line up and through the block and then back down, tie off in the same place. Follow the same process (Steps 139E to 139G) to fit the sails of the mainmast and their corresponding sheets.
Retrieve the anchors and 1.5mm brown thread. Cut a 300mm length of thread and knot it to the anchor ring. Use a short piece of natural thread to bind the end of the cable (the brown thread), as shown in Step 139I. Repeat this for the other three anchors.
Two anchors fit on each side of the ship. Hook the flukes of the first behind the first lanyard of the fore shroud and those of the second behind the last lanyard. Lash the stems of the anchors to the bottom of the deadeyes with natural thread. Cut the two cables to match those shown in Step 139J. Glue the end of the first anchor into the inner hawse and the second into the outer hawse. Tie a 200mm length of 0.15mm thread to the anchor ring and following the numbering on the inset photo of Step 139J, pass the other end up through hole 1, down through hole 2, cross it under and up through hole 3 then down through hole 4, tie it off to the ring.
This stage is now complete. Store any materials you haven’t used in a bag marked with the stage number as they will be needed in future Stages.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
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Stage 140 Contents: Crossjack Sail, Mizzen Topsail, Spanker, Flags, Blocks 4mm.
Follow the process shown in the previous stage to fit the crossjack sail and mizzen topsail, the blocks and the sheets. Tie the sheets off to the points marked in Figure ‘P’ on the rigging plan. Fit blocks in the clews of the foresail, mainsail and mizzen topsail. Rig the fore sail clew lines by tying the line to the block on the yard, then passing it down through the clew block, back up through the first block, then down through the top. Tie it off to the point marked in Figure ‘P’ on the rigging plan. Repeat this to rig the rest of the clewlines.
To rig the buntlines, shown in figure ‘L’ on the rigging plan, tie the line around the block on the top of the yard, then pass it down in front of the sail, as shown in the inset photo of Step 140C. Take the line back up behind the sail and pass it through the block, then up to the block under the top, then down and tie it off to the points marked in Figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan.
Now rig the bowlines, shown in Figure ‘M’ on the rigging plan, by sewing one end of the line to the leech (side) of the sail and passing it forward through the corresponding block as indicated on the plan. Tie it off to the points marked in Figures ‘P’ and ‘Q’ on the rigging plan. Sew a shorter length to the sail below the first and tie it to the line above as shown in the inset photo of Step 140D.
Use the same method to rig the main and mizzen bowlines, shown in Figure ‘M’ and ‘N’ on the rigging plan, and the blocks. To rig the bowsprit topmast backstay, shown in Figure ‘N’ on the rigging plan, first pass a line through the block at the top of the spritsail topmast, as shown in the inset photo of Step 140F and attach a block to each end. Then tie the backstay to the forestay and pass it through the blocks in the order shown in Step 140F. Tie it off to the point marked in Figure ‘P’ on the rigging plan.
Follow Figure ‘N’ of the rigging plan to attach the spanker to the mizzen yard with the robands. Sew a block to the clew. Rig the sheets, the brails and the vangs.
Retrieve the flags provided with Stages 3, 137 and 140. Cut them from their sheets, following the outline, then fold them in half. Prepare the flag halyards, shown in Figure ‘O’ on the rigging plan, then apply fabric glue to the insides of the flags and fold them over the midpoint of the halyard. Follow the rigging plan to rig the halyards to the blocks at the top of each mast and flagpole. Wrap the flag around something cylindrical to give it a more realistic feel.
Bend the shank of an eyepin round to create a hook. Rig the tackle with a block at one end to the mainmast fore stay. Tie a double block to the end of the halyard, pass the halyard up through the tackle block, then tie it off to the point in Figure ‘Q’ on the rigging plan. Tie a lanyard between the block and the hook.
To add a further look of realism to your model you can add coiled lines to all of the belaying pins as shown in Step 140J
This completes the Official Build of the ModelSpace Soleil Royal, hope you enjoyed the build as much as I did.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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