Another possibility for de-fluffing the rigging cord is to use a block of beeswax.

This weekend I rigged the relieving tackle for the tiller on HMS Halifax, my first attempt at blocks and tackles!!. Trying to thread the 3mm blocks was almost impossible. Then I remembered the beeswax and the result was easy threading and the cord running smoothly through the blocks.

Mike T

Out of the three brands you mention, I would go for the Humbrol paint as, when properly mixed (VERY important!) it tends to cover quite well and provide a satisfactory, very matte result.

Revell paint tends to be a bit too thick and doesn't thin down all that well.

Tamiya paint requires special thinners, smells funny and, having tried it in the past, I find it rather sticky. Some folk swear by it though

However; if you are prepared to go mail order, I would strongly recommend Vallejo paint - there's a huge range of colours, it flows from the brush well and stands up well to a lot of thinning without the pigment breaking-up. I will happily work out what colours you should acquire (be prepared for a little mixing though).

@ MikeT, yes, beeswax would be good for a lot of reasons - if i could introduce a little colour into it, it might be ideal.

Using Greenstuff (Kneadatite)

Firstly, my apologies to those expecting the painting/highlighting walk-through - this will materialise once #3 turns up at my local newsagents (Since I have chosen to make my model in a wooden finish, I'll pick up an extra copy and paint up a spare Carronade for the purposes of this guide)

In the meantime, I have noticed that some of the more adventurous souls amongst us are keen to try out adding extra details using greenstuff (epoxy modelling putty), and since it has some peculiar properties, I thought it might be handy to write up a quick guide to using it.

Note: Whilst its possible to use GS without a comprehensive range of sculpting tools, one or two do tend to be quite useful. Try looking in your local model shop, GW store, or a decent online Modelling suppliers. Generally speaking, most sculpting tools have two ends (very much the same as dental tools) and a simple blade/flat and probe/bent probe combo will suffice for most tasks. In the meantime, the tutorial that follows can be followed with nothing more than a used craft knife blade and a pin. Some spare, cut down to a manageable size, (plain, shiny white) bathroom tiles are also handy to roll the gs into whatever thickness you need.

* always keep any sculpting tools absolutely spotless - GS has a tendency to be very sticky when first mixed and will often prefer to cling to the tool you are using than where you want it to go.

*Mix the GS by kneading, rolling, squeezing and twisting until it is uniformly coloured throughout - in the following walkthrough I haven't bothered too much since
I only had a short time to complete the sculpt.

The following pics were taken using my secondary camera and in a bit of a hurry so I apologise for blurriness

1: getting started

In the picture above, I have shown GS in its supplied blue and yellow parts with just a small amount from each rolled into small balls (you don't need much and besides, large amounts tend to become unworkable more quickly than they can be used. I have also rolled a suitably thin 'rod' which I will be using for the walkthrough.

2: Sculpting applique detail

In this pic, I have laid down some small lengths of the rolled gs to form the rough shapes that make up the royal crest and lettering for the barrels of the cannon - as it is a demo pic, I applied the GS onto a spare miniature base. Simply place lengths and blobs of rolled GS int a rough approximation of what you are trying to sculpt.

NOTE!! The GS in the above pic has clearly not been mixed properly (due to being in a rush)- The yellow bits are therefore quite soft and, even when the surrounding green cures, will remain that way). ALWAYS mix the two parts thoroughly!!

3: Applique detail contd

Using a sculpting tool and craft knife I tidied the rough shapes up and applied some detail to the crown.

Note: Gs can usually be worked upon for a good twenty minutes or so before it goes a bit too hard to work with - the working time can be extended by applying some gentle warmth using a hairdryer (but be warned, whilst the gs initially softens with warmth, it will cure more rapidly soon after).

Those of you that are following my build diary will have noted that I sculpted the monarchs crown and initials onto the barrel of the cannon supplied with #1 -



To repeat the process from scratch on the barrels of a large number of cannon would, as you can rightly imagine, take a great deal of time - fortunately this isn't necessary! In the following pics andparagraphs I will show you how to make a nifty stamp using? ...you guessed it! Greenstuff!!


4: Rinse and Repeat
Once your GS has fully cured, 'paint' it and the surrounding surface with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) - ensuring that you don't apply it too thickly as GS will pick up every detail - including vaseline. Make up a lump of mixed GS large enough to cover the detail you wish to replicate and a small area of the surrounding surface and press it on firmly. The application of Vaseline will prevent the fresh GS sticking to your sculpt and surrounding area (the arrows were added to indicate the top edge)


Once the fresh GS has cured, simply lift it from the surface and, all being well you should now have a 3D negative of the detail,as shown in the photo below.


Whilst I am going to need to make another mould of the applique detail on the cannon barrel, (to get some more location guides) the pic below shows how the principles shown in this article have been applied to a (very) basic mould. To replicate this detail, all I need do is apply a small blob of mixed GS to future 12lbr cannon barrels and press the mould down onto it, cutting any surplus gs away once it has cured.

You are more than welcome.

I, in turn will be relying on wizened model ship builders to explain the arcane methodology of planking and have already benefited from photos of the real HMS Victory and the various advice on detail that have been shared by other members. Hopefully we can all benefit from shared knowledge.

I also look forward to the arrival of the next issue. *twiddles thumbs*

As for the measurements, I will confess that I added the detail 'by eye' and so it is probably a bit out of scale - the crown I sculpted is just over 2mm in width and, with the lettering, approximately 3.7mm down from the nearest edge of the band around the cannon closest to the pinion.

That is a super tip, thanks very much.

Great stuff as to be excepted from your self Capt!

regards Pam

I have been using Admiral Acrylic paints from Cornwall models. How have people been finding it ?

I personally have been finding it a little too thick and it does not leave as good a finish as I would like it is also very matt. I need to do some experimentation with thinning it to see if it loses pigmentation and will post my results when done.

Top tips again mate many thanks for these
john

Yes to both questions, although I have had some tubes now for a good couple of years that are perfectly useable without needing to have kept them in a fridge (strip-packs may differ though). Generally speaking its best kept in a reasonably cool, dark place but if you are concerned, it is eputed to last longer if stored in a fridge (If doing so, cut an amount that you'll need an hour or so before using and allow it to reach room temperature.

It's not really all that fussy, but the above suggestion covers all the bases.

I'll cover Milliput, as mentioned by snowtiger in another post - its a good product in lots of ways and has one or two advantages over gs (it can be machined and sanded with ease), but I tend to use it for larger projects and can't get it to hold such fine detail as can be achieved with gs.

Whilst on this thread, I should mention that I'll be doing a full detailing and painting walkthrough on this weeks carronade model - there should be something of interest for everyone.

On the subject of painting, don't throw away those blister packs that the anchor and cannon came in, they'll make great, disposable palettes! If its already too late, try to get hold of a couple of clean, white kitchen/bathroom tiles.

You'll also want a selection of decent quality brushes. Your local art shop (and no, I don't mean 'The Works') will have a bewildering array - just go for the best watercolour (NOT ACRYLIC - even if you are using acrylic paint, the bristles tend to be harder) brushes you can afford in the following sizes.

'0' Don't be tempted to go any smaller than '00' - if its a good brush, the point will be quite fine enough and this size is still large enough to hold a reasonable amount of paint. in fact, you wont need a brush this small until we get our hands on the crew figures

'1' Perfectly adequate for most reasonably fine work

'2' A good workhorse brush

Choose a brush with a bristle length that isn't too long - you don't need a mop.

Games Workshop also sell reasonable quality brushes and also short stubby ones known as drybrushes, which can come on quite handy - I often use a large drybrush for all manner of tasks.

I will cover the subject at varying levels - so if you simply want to apply a perfect, flat finish (just using one colour of paint, without worrying about shading or highlighting) then that's fine - just find a standard that you will be comfortable with over the entire model.

If you want to push yourself a bit, then you will need some extra paint colours than just the basic ones - I'll be using Vallejo Modelcolor acrylics, but even if you use enamels (I imagine the Cornwall paint set to be enamel) you'll still need at least one darker hue of each colour (except black, obviously) and a lighter one.
Humbrol enamels will be fine for secondary shades and should mix well with the Cornwall paints (assuming that they are enamel).

Since I'll be taking pics of the colours which I'll be using - you will get a pretty good idea of the secondary colours that you will need.

If you are using acrylics then some water and a tiny drop of washing up liquid will be all you need for thinners. If using enamels then you'll probably want to get hold of some enamel thinners (white spirit is ok for brush cleaning, but I don't recommend it for thinning the paint as it tends to separate the pigment).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Cheap brushes and paints are NOT a good (or even economical) option. You are spending a lot of money on this build and having cheap brushes that have a tendency to shed bristles and paints that require shoveling on will spoil the look and quality of your craftsmanship.

Good quality paints, when mixed/stirred/shaken thoroughly and applied to a well prepped surface will give you good, even coverage, flatten out well and give great results.