|
|
 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Hi I’ve been asked to start my own thread my problem is as follows :-
My R2D2 won’t start up properly on power up it jerks forward slightly, the LED on the front is RED the head doesn’t rotate, my batteries are fully charged and I have checked all the wire connections are correct way round and are in the right place and none of the pins are bent, I’ve been asked to reorder the PCB from issue 99, which I will do and get back on any progress
|
|
|
|
|
Could you also post up the full spec of your batterys,this information should be available from the battery vendor. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
My batteries are LeiFire IMR 18650 3.7V 3000mAh
the batteries are button top
as for there continuous discharge rate i can't find that out even from the vendor
but it is low but i don't know how low?
|
|
|
|
|
Can you post a picture of the battery and is it protected or unprotected. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
arpurchase wrote:Can you post a picture of the battery and is it protected or unprotected. I assume it has protected because it has,Over charge and discharge protection Short-circuit and over current protection
|
|
|
|
|
The batterys should be the unprotected type. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Here a picture PeterP attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway.
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Tomick wrote:According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway. Yes there are so many different type of 18650 out there
|
|
|
|
|
High Peter The batterys you will need should be unprotected and a minimum of 3 amp discharge rate or higher. Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
arpurchase wrote:High Peter
The batterys you will need should be unprotected and a minimum of 3 amp discharge rate or higher.
Andy Hi Andy I have already ordered some unprotected button top with a 15A continuous discharge rate but 3.6v I think that should be ok? i think my previous ones where about 5A and 3.7v but protected i do hope they have not damaged the MCU? but as Tomick has suggested i have reordered issues 94 to maybe do a swop out and as you suggested I also reordered issue 99 to replace the PCB in that issue as well
|
|
|
 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/05/2017 Posts: 29 Points: 93 Location: USA
|
Tomick wrote:According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway. I know you're erroring on the side of safety, but it is really unlikely that using protected batteries would damage the MCU. The problem with the protected cells (as far as R2 is concerned) is that each individual cell has a circuit that detects high and low voltages within the cell - and will electrically disconnect the cell if it becomes over charged or over drained. Since R2 has 2 sets of 3 cells in series, if one of those cells decides it is fully charged and disconnects itself - that set will electrically drop out and the charger would continue trying to charge the remaining cells in the other set. If at least 1 cell in each set cuts off because it thinks it is fully charged - the R2 charger will now behave like there isn't a battery pack installed at all. But if the R2 charger was built correctly, it should never apply voltage that would be high enough to damage the MCU under any circumstance (whether batteries were present or not). If anything, I could see that the charging component may be damaged if it has to deal with cells that are making their own individual decisions about when they 'participate' in the charging process. Current Builds: R2D2, Millenium Falcon
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
stwood6 wrote:Tomick wrote:According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway. I know you're erroring on the side of safety, but it is really unlikely that using protected batteries would damage the MCU. The problem with the protected cells (as far as R2 is concerned) is that each individual cell has a circuit that detects high and low voltages within the cell - and will electrically disconnect the cell if it becomes over charged or over drained. Since R2 has 2 sets of 3 cells in series, if one of those cells decides it is fully charged and disconnects itself - that set will electrically drop out and the charger would continue trying to charge the remaining cells in the other set. If at least 1 cell in each set cuts off because it thinks it is fully charged - the R2 charger will now behave like there isn't a battery pack installed at all. But if the R2 charger was built correctly, it should never apply voltage that would be high enough to damage the MCU under any circomestance (whether batteries were present or not). If anything, I could see that the charging component may be damaged if it has to deal with cells that are making their own individual decisions about when they 'participate' in the charging process. That thought had already cross my mind but it's better to be safe than sorry
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
stwood6 wrote:Tomick wrote:According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway. I know you're erroring on the side of safety, but it is really unlikely that using protected batteries would damage the MCU. The problem with the protected cells (as far as R2 is concerned) is that each individual cell has a circuit that detects high and low voltages within the cell - and will electrically disconnect the cell if it becomes over charged or over drained. Since R2 has 2 sets of 3 cells in series, if one of those cells decides it is fully charged and disconnects itself - that set will electrically drop out and the charger would continue trying to charge the remaining cells in the other set. If at least 1 cell in each set cuts off because it thinks it is fully charged - the R2 charger will now behave like there isn't a battery pack installed at all. But if the R2 charger was built correctly, it should never apply voltage that would be high enough to damage the MCU under any circomestance (whether batteries were present or not). If anything, I could see that the charging component may be damaged if it has to deal with cells that are making their own individual decisions about when they 'participate' in the charging process. Unfortunately that’s not the advice given by the manufacturer, who has stated that the R2 circuitry could be damaged by the use of Protected cells.
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Tomick wrote:stwood6 wrote:Tomick wrote:According to the Amazon spec for your battery, it says it’s a “Protected” type battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk...lashlight/dp/B01HGBUNWK
Therefore is unsuitable to use in R2 - the magazine spec clearly states “Unprotected” type.
If this is so, you need to replace your batteries but the concerning thing is that you may have also inadvertently damaged the MCU as a result of installing Protected batteries, you’ll only discover this after you install the correct batteries and see if your R2 starts up and runs as he should or may also need to replace the MCU, might even be worthwhile doing a swop anyway. I know you're erroring on the side of safety, but it is really unlikely that using protected batteries would damage the MCU. The problem with the protected cells (as far as R2 is concerned) is that each individual cell has a circuit that detects high and low voltages within the cell - and will electrically disconnect the cell if it becomes over charged or over drained. Since R2 has 2 sets of 3 cells in series, if one of those cells decides it is fully charged and disconnects itself - that set will electrically drop out and the charger would continue trying to charge the remaining cells in the other set. If at least 1 cell in each set cuts off because it thinks it is fully charged - the R2 charger will now behave like there isn't a battery pack installed at all. But if the R2 charger was built correctly, it should never apply voltage that would be high enough to damage the MCU under any circomestance (whether batteries were present or not). If anything, I could see that the charging component may be damaged if it has to deal with cells that are making their own individual decisions about when they 'participate' in the charging process. Unfortunately that’s not the advice given by the manufacturer, who has stated that the R2 circuitry could be damaged by the use of Protected cells. After i get the new batteries i'll try R2 again if I get the same problem i'll change the MCU which I've reordered anyway and recheck all connection if i still get the same problem then i change the PCB from issue 99 which i think is a Pi microcomputer
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Ok reassembled R2 with new batteries(Samsung 30q) fully charged, checked all wiring for correct position and orientation, pressed power button but same as before R2 jerks forward head doesn't rotate RED light on front stays on R2 makes a few beeps, BLUE legs motor lights are on, none of the back LEDS come on R2 makes a few beeps when i press the first three buttons but nothing else, i manually turn the head but i get no response, next port of call is to change MCU when it arrives if that don't do it then i change the Orange Pi microcomputer in the head......
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
The common factor in this is the MCU after checking all the wiring of course, this could be a quality control issues with the MCU, people seem to be getting the same problem weather they used protected or unprotected batteries  if changing the MCU doesn't fix the problem the next thing is the Orange Pi microcomputer in the dome which is static sensitive and can be damaged easily, of course it may be worth mentioning there could be a dodgy cable and buzzing them out may reveal a bad one or more!!
|
|
|
 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
|
Could be worth checking the cables that link between the head boards and boards in the body. Make sure they are properly connected. I saw a video on youtube where 1 chap was having all manner of trouble. Turned out to simply be one of them cavlea wasn't properly plugged in. Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2018 Posts: 70 Points: 225 Location: London
|
Yes i did check to make sure they are right way round and properly seated
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
PeterP wrote:The common factor in this is the MCU after checking all the wiring of course, this could be a quality control issues with the MCU, people seem to be getting the same problem weather they used protected or unprotected batteries if changing the MCU doesn't fix the problem the next thing is the Orange Pi microcomputer in the dome which is static sensitive and can be damaged easily, of course it may be worth mentioning there could be a dodgy cable and buzzing them out may reveal a bad one or more!! Indeed your problem may well be the MCU as a result of installing “Protected” batteries to start with., So it seems the only way forward is to replace the MCU and go from there.
In actual fact, the biggest factor so far with most problems reported, is incorrect batteries, incorrectly labelled wires, incorrectly plugged wires and plugs not properly fitted.
|
|
|
|
Guest (9)
|
US
