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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Do you mean the frame/clamp I constructed? Just copydex, Ronald
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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Is it one that is holding the model inverted to work on the bottom if so yes I have also been trying to figure out how to wrap the temporary stand to work on the model with out scratching the bottom Ronald
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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If it's the one with blue felt at one end and green at the other, yes it was Copydex. I knew I would be spending a lot of time working on the hull planks and then tiling so I thought I would need something to keep her steady. I also only planked up to the quarterdeck rather than finish to the top. Leaving the frames bare would give me something to fix the clamps to.
I used plastic foam on the temporary stand around the sides and in the grove again using Copydex to secure it. It has never come away from the frame even with all the knocking around it gets.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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yes that the one how did you glue the blue and green felt, to the wood boards is Copydex a type of glue
Ronald
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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yes but what is it a glue if so where can I get it Ronald
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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The last post was a link. Click it to go the the Amazon site. All the details are there. You can also get it on amazon.com.
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z8000783 wrote:Quick question before signing off for the year. I notice in the instructions we were due to receive 170 balusters and indeed I have 169 and a broken one. According to my figures though, we will only use 129 for the stern gallery.
Have I made an arithmetic error here or will the extras be used elsewhere or did we simply receive too many?
Many thanks.
Hi John, the extras will not be used anywhere else. Main thing is you have sufficient to complete the gallery. Regards Alan
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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No probs, Ronald and thanks Alan.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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As the weather here was hot over the summer, I never got as much done as I wanted but now completed to the end of stage 82 and some sections of 83 & 84. Next up will be to finish the gallery which will have to wait until March as we are back in the UK until then. Just realised I have 34 heads to carve out though so will make a start on those and fix them to the ship, as well as over a hundred balusters to paint. It should keep me off the streets at least.
TIP #1: I have found the drill sizes for pins and cleats to be too big such that it is tricky to get the superglue to take when the pin is rattling around in the hole. I took the size down a millimetre and they normally offer a tight fit then. Of course, always try it on a test piece of wood before fitting on the ship.
TIP #2: Be careful when you fit the first gun port covers, 9 either side. There is no template for drilling the rope holes above the cut outs. I found it better to glue the covers in place first and then drill the rope holes exactly above the hinges where the ropes drop through. No guessing required then.
TIP #3 There are a number of errors and ambiguities in the published instructions for the build. The on-line Official Build corrects many of these and the videos provide a demonstration of what the finished sections should look like. Be sure to look at both of the relevant sections of these prior to working on that stage as you progress through the build.
Not much else to report on the build so I will just leave the pics here.
So this will be the last time I use the frame I built for securing the ship when upside down. It has been really useful but will go into storage now the deck fittings are starting to appear.
Last of the touching up done that is easier to do when upside down.
The last main job was finishing off the underside of the galley.
Having messed up the paintwork on the castings, I decided to take it all off and start again.
Then on to the stern mouldings and the scaffolding required.
Really pleased with how the decking came out
Enjoyed doing the timberheads as well.
Wanted to put the rope in for the wheel even though no one will ever see it. Just a nerd I guess.
I must say, I never tire of looking at her gorgeous lines.
Really pleased with using the airbrush for the main painting but still a little touching up to do.
Never got the curves 100% right so had to use some pins in the end. The canopy adhesive seemed quite good though.
Gradually coming together.
Now ready to finish off the frames when I get back in March.
Painted all the balusters gold. This was thicker paint and tended to clog up the airbrush but got there in the end.
Quite pleased with the finish.
Another question though:
Started work on the gallery and window frames which all seem to be black on the painted version at this stage i.e. 83. However, up at stage 90, the window frames suddenly become yellow. Bearing in mind that yellow doesn't cover over black very well, what is happening here? I didn't find the instructions or video very illuminating and I tried looking at other diaries but the picture failure seems pretty bad at the moment, for me at least.
Would it be better rubbing back the black at this stage in readiness for painting it all yellow? Also it says that we should then over-paint the balusters yellow ochre, what is the purpose of that, i.e. why paint them gold in the first place?
I notice in the real Victory down in Portsmouth, all the balusters are yellow.
Any thoughts or advise please?
Have a great Christmas and New Year and see you all again next year.
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She's looking really good John, some very nice work being done on her.... .. The instructions are written to cover both the natural and painted finishes with a great deal of the pics showing the natural finish. The Official Build however shows everything that needs to be done for the painted finish and in particular, stage 83 of the build does say to paint the balusters yellow ochre, gold balusters are for the natural finish build. As for the black, the yellow is painted mainly on the framing and it is down to personal choice whether you wish to rub back and paint yellow. As you are doing the painted finish I would advise you look through the official build diary for each stage prior to starting any work on each stage, this will help in picking up any additional tips for the painted finish... Look forward to seeing more of your build on your return to the UK. Hope this helps. Regards Alan
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Thanks Alan
Yes, you are right. I do usually look at the official build, the videos, the instructions and other diaries but I managed to miss that snippet on the balusters on this occasion. Oh well, looks like I'll have to get the air brush out again.
The official build says the black is used as a base for the frames. I would not think that is a good idea.
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z8000783 wrote:Thanks Alan
Yes, you are right. I do usually look at the official build, the videos, the instructions and other diaries but I managed to miss that snippet on the balusters on this occasion. Oh well, looks like I'll have to get the air brush out again.
The official build says the black is used as a base for the frames. I would not
We've all done it John, no matter how many times we read instructions there is always something we tend to miss. All part of the fun of ship building..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
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Yes, you are right Alan, I just wish it was a little less often.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/03/2011 Posts: 1,053 Points: 3,165 Location: Glenvista JHB
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Hi John, Great update. Glad to see you back. I underestimated just how much work goes into the Gallery - it took an age to wrap-up. One issue for me was the various materials & gluing them. White glue won't stick to acetate & superglue frosts it I ended up using contact adhesive- not the best solution, but it worked. Kind regards, Garth "Measure twice, cut once!!!" Finished!!! HMS Victory, Current build: Black Pearl. On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1. Wish list: USS Constitution.
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Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Many thanks Garth.
This is the adhesive I bought for the canopy plastic and it worked great so used it for the gallery. Wood stuck to the window plastic really well.
<link>Canopy Adhesive
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/01/2015 Posts: 68 Points: 178 Location: Holland
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Hi John Thats great work, you're right, model building is a winter hobby when its cold and wet outside. this is going to be my next build so I'm following your photos with interest keep up the good work, have a good weekend Terry On the bench. Cutty Sark 1869 Built. Mayflower 1609, Endeavor, 1768
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Many thanks for the kind words Terry.
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Looking really good ,well done.
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