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Stage 24
Stage 24 Contents: Gear Selector Spring, Outer Gear Selector Ratchet, Inner Gear Selector Ratchet, Clutch Cable Retainer, Clutch/Gear Selector Lever and Cable,Fixing Screws and Left Handlebar.
Take the spring and slip it over the thin end of the handlebar and slide it all the way down. Take the inner gear selector ratchet, with the toothed side facing outwards and slide it down until it stops against the spring. Now take the outer gear selector ratchet, with the toothed side facing inwards and slide it along until the two sets of teeth mesh together.
Take the clutch/gear selector lever and keeping the cable out of the way, slide the lever along the handlebar until it reaches the outer gear selector ratchet. Rotate the parts so you can engage the lugs on the ratchet with the notches in the end of the lever. Holding the assembly together, fit the end of the handlebar onto the post in the lower handlebar cover.
Lead the clutch cable through the guides moulded into the cover and press the end of the black outer sheath into the stop. Now use the remaining screw to secure the end of the brake cable in place.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage-labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 25
Stage 25 Contents: Right Twistgrip Rubber, Left Twistgrip Rubber, ThrottleTwistgrip, Gearchange Twistgrip, Throttle Twistgrip Return Spring,Twistgrip End Caps, Screw Covers and Twistgrip Retaining Screws.
Identify the shorter of the two twistgrips, which controls the gearchange. One end has two notches that engages with the lugs inside the clutch lever clamp.
Fit over the end of the left handlebar, pressing the twistgrip into place so it locks into the clutch lever clamp, then take one of the large retaining screws and screw it into the end of the handlebar. Do not overtighten the screw, it must be free to rotate on the handlebar.
Now take the gearchange twistgrip rubber, which is the shorter of the two grips supplied. There is a flattened rib on the insideof the twistgrip rubber, which must match up with the flattened side of the twistgrip, this prevents the rubber from twisting around the grip. Push the rubber all the way up to the handlebar clamp, then fit one of the end caps and push it into the open end of the rubber, push it all the way so it snaps into place.
Slip the remaining twistgrip onto the other handlebar, making sure that the large notch at one end is underneath the outer end of the bar. Fit the twistgrip return spring over the handlebar and hook the end of the wire that turn inwards, into the small hole at the end of the slot. The other end of the spring needs to fit into the slot in the twistgrip.
Take the large retaining screw and screw it into the end of the handlebar but do not overtighten it. The twistgrip must be free to rotate on the handlebar, under the control of the return spring, which should bring it back to the start position.Now slide the second twistgrip rubber, which also has a rib to ensure it can only be fitted in one position, all the way onto the twistgrip. Take the end cap and press it into the end of the twistgrip until it snaps into place.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bagarpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Superb details on this kit  i think i may have to start saving up for this beauty  Al
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Stage 26
Stage 26 Contents: Front Suspension Unit, Front Shock Absorber, Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt, Shock Absorber Mounting Nut, Box Spanner, Flanged Screws and Fixing Screws.
You will find it easier to assemble the front suspension if you remove the trailing arm that you fitted in stage 4, use the same spanner that you used to fit the nut.
Take the front fork and the flanged screw you saved from stage 4. Fit the small pivot on the end of the fork into the second hole from the smaller end of the trailing arm, securing the trailing arm to the fork using the flanged screw leaving it free to pivot.Rotate the trailing arm so you can take the front suspension unit and fit it between the two fixing points. Press the large pivot on the end of the suspension unit into the matching hole in the trailing arm and fit the square top of the unit into the matching recess under the mounting arm projecting from the fork. Using the fixing screw provided, screw down through the hole in the mounting arm projecting from the frontfork and screw it into the end of the suspension unit.
Take the shock absorber and drive a flange screw into the small boss projecting from the top of the unit to pre-cut a thread, making it easier to assemble the parts, then fit the boss on top of the shock absorber into the hole in the fork. Turn the assembly over secure the top and secure the top of the shock absorber to the fork using the screw you used to pre-cut the thread.
Align the hole in the trailing arm with the boss on the bottom of the suspension unit and use a flanged screw to secure it to the trailing arm. Fit the bolt provided through the trailing arm and the lower end of the shock absorber, then fit the nut onto the end using the box spanner provided to tighten the nut fully. Check that the trailing arm is free to pivot by compressing the suspension spring.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 27
Stage 27 Contents: Trailing Arm Cover, Brake Operating Lever, Speedometer Cable, Brake Operating Lever Return Spring, Brake Cable Stop & Adjuster, Screw, Flanges Screw and Valve Stems.
Remove the brake backplate that you fitted in stage 4. If the brake backplate is difficult to remove, don’t try to force it or lever it off. Dismantle the wheel by removing the tyre, then remove the five screws holding the two parts of the rim together. You can then pull out the stub axle which will release any pressure holding the brake backplate in place.
Take the cable adjuster and nut, screw the nut all the way onto the adjuster, using pliers to run it up tight against the head of the adjuster. Now take the completed adjuster and screw it into the cable stop from the side that is at a right angle to the base. Screw the adjuster all the way into the stop using pliers if necessary, then line it up with the brake backplate as shown in step 17 of the instructions. Press the lug on the back of the stop into the recess in the backplate, secure in place from the other side of the backplate using the screw provided.
Take the brake operating lever and return spring, fit the spring over the shaft of the lever so that the short projecting end will fit into the notch. Fit the lever assembly into the hole in the backplate, taking care to align it so that the projecting end of the spring fits into the notch. You may find it easier to insert the spring if you keep the lever slightly angled as shown in step 27 of the instructions. Turning the assembly over whilst holding everything in place, take the flanged screw as secure the brake operating lever in place.
If you dismantled the wheel to remove the brake backplate, refit the stub axle and screw the two halves of the wheel together before refitting the tyre. Fit the brake backplate onto the stub axle, taking care to line up the flat on the shaft with the flat inside the hole in the backplate.
Now take one of the three type valves and fit the cranked black end into the hole in the wheel.Take the fork assembly from stage 26, noting the position of the flat inside the trailing arm, line it up with the flat on the brake backplate and press the parts together. Fit the nut onto the end of the stub axle and tighten it with the T-bar spanner. Now take the trailing arm cover, match up the three locating pins in the cover with the three holes in the arm then press the pins into the holes until the cover fits flush.
Take the speedometer cable and press the pin on the end into the hole in the hub, then fit the free end of the cable into the hole at the top of the shock absorber. Check that the wheel spins freely.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 28
Stage 28 Contents: Front Mudguard, Bolt, Slot Head Screws and Fixing Screws.
Take the crest provided in stage 3 and fit it into the recess in the mudguard, fitting the locating tabs into the matching holes. Use the two black fixing screws to secure the crest in place.
Take the front wheel and suspension assembly, fit the long fork leg up through the hole in the mudguard taking care not to scratch the paint. Carefully lower the mudguard over the bracket projecting from the fork and secure the mudguard in place with the two slot head screws provided.
Now take the bolt and start screwing it into the hole just in front of the forkleg, using the spanner provided in stage 6 tighten the bolt fully, being careful not to slip and scratch the paint.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 29
Stage 29 Contents: Circuit Board with Speedometer Light, Fixing Screws, Fork Retaining Clamps, Small Fixing Screws, Flanged Screws and Fork Mounting Plate.
Handle the circuit board gently.
Hold it by the edges and line up the LED in the centre with the hole in the back of the speedometer housing. Fit the LED into the hole and line up the holes in the corner of the board with the two holes in the housing, fix in place using the two fixing screws provided.
Fit the second tyre valve to the rear wheel in the same way you did for the front. The third valve is used for thespare wheel, which is provided later in the build.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 30
Stage 30 Contents: Steering Tunnel Cover, Fixing Screws, Steering Lock and Circuit Board with Headlight LED.
Match up the locating pins on the steering lock with the holes on the side of the steering tunnel cover and press the lock firmly into place.
Take the handlebar assembly and the circuit board with the headlight LED. Match up the two holes in the board with the mounting post in the handlebar cover, then fit the circuit board on top of the two mounting posts and secure in place with the two fixing screws.
Feed the wires with a plug on the end down through the same hole that already has two cables fitted through, the clearance is limited so care should be taken. Pull the wires through to leave a neat, short length inside the handlebar cover.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 31
Stage 31 Contents: Air Cleaner Box Top, Rubber Bellows, Air Cleaner Box Base and Drain Tube.
Fit the two halves of the air cleaner box together, noting which way round the top goes and fitting the four posts underneath it into the four holes. Press the parts firmly together until the top locks in place.
Take the bellows and fit the wider end over the box’s inlet pipe, ensure you fit it the correct way round as shown in step 6 of the instructions. Press the bellows firmly into place.
Take the drain tube and locate the small hole in the air cleaner box and press the end of the drain tube into the hole.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 32
Stage 32 Contents: Filter Bowl Clip, Fuel Tap, Fuel Tap Body, Fuel Pipe, Fixing Screws, Filter Bowl and Battery Box.
Fit the 'D'shaped lug on the fuel tap into the matching hole in the fuel tap body, press the parts together firmly. Now take the clear filter bowl and match up the two pins with the corresponding holes in the fuel tap. Press the filter bowl all the way into the tap so it sits flush.
Take the retaining clip and hook one end of the clip into the hole below the filter bowl, then gently work the other end over the filter bowl, hook the other end of the clip into the tap boxy, making sure the middle of the clip is seated on the end of the bowl.
Fit the end of the fuel pipe into the hole in the side of the fuel tap.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 33
Stage 33 Contents: Fixing Screws and Fuel Tank.
Take the battery box from the previous stage and the tank provided this time.
Orientate the battery box the correct way round, fitting the mounting tabs on the ends of the battery box onto the two posts in the middle of the tank. Secure in place using the two fixing screws provided with the battery box, making sure that the battery lead is not trapped but runs freely out of the end of the tank.
Turn the tank over and take the fuel tap assembled in stage 32. Match up the large'D' shaped lug on the tap and the smaller lug on the end of the fuel pipe with the holes in the tank and fit the tap in place. Make sure the tap fits all the way into the tank, then fit the end of the fuel pipe into its hole.
Make sure that the fuel tap is mounted squarely and that the filter bowl is straight.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 34
Stage 34 Contents: Speaker Box.
Support the tank so there is no pressure on the tap on the underside. Fit the speaker box into the square housing in the tank with the wires on the end facing the battery box and the holes in the speaker box facing the bottom of the tank. Press the speaker box all the way into the housing, make sure that the wires run through the slot in the end.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 35
Stage 35 Contents: Tank Top, Fuel Filler Cap Hinge, Fuel Filler Cap Seal, Fuel Filler Cap, Flanged Screws, Fixing Screw and Fuel Filler Cap Locking Catch.
Take the fuel filler cap hinge and fit the fuel filler cap underneath, secure in place using the fixing screw provided. It doesn’t matter which way the two lugs under the fuel filler cap are pointing as they are simply used to fit the seal. Take the fuel filler cap seal and match up the two pins inside with the holes in the fuel filler cap, then press the seal fully into place.
Now take the top of the fuel tank and line up the end of the hinge with the square recess, with the hole in the centre. Press the end of the hinge into the recess, then check that the filler cap will flip down into the hole in the tank. Take one of the flanged screws provided and use it to secure the end of the hinge to the tank from the underside.
Next take the fuel filler cap locking catch and fit it into the rectangular recess opposite the filler cap, the extended flange must be on the side away from the filler cap. Turn the tank top over and keeping the catch pressed into place, secure it with the other flanged screw provided. Make sure you can close the filler cap and secure it with the catch, the catch hinges up to fit in the slot in the fuel filler cap hinge, keeping it closed.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage-labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Everything looking just fab.....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Administration   Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,300 Points: 23,988 Location: East midlands
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The detail on this is amazing and it keeps coming.  Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Thanks for looking in and your comments everyone Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I can see the kit being sold out very quickly 
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Stage 36
Stage 36 Contents: Motherboard.
The motherboard has seven white sockets labelled E, G, K, K1, M, P and R. These will be used to connect the various electronic systems in the model.Handle the motherboard with care as it contains delicate electronic components.
Noting which way round it goes, fit the motherboard inside the tank so that the four holes on the corners fit over the posts next to the housing holding the speaker box, then take the four screws from stage 33 and insert one into each corner to secure in place.
Plug the lead from the battery box, labelled ‘G’, into the socket on the motherboard which is also labelled ‘G’, making sure not to bend any pins in the process. The plug has a rib on one side that fits into a slot in the socket ensuring the plug only fits one way round, press the plug all the way into the socket.Plug the lead from the speaker box, labelled ‘P’, into the socket on the motherboard labelled ‘P’.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 37
Stage 37 Contents: Horn Circuit Board, Connection Board and Fixing Screws.
Take the horn circuit board, which has a plug labelled ‘C’ and fit the board inside the fork cover behind the grille you fitted in stage 3. With the lead pointing towardsthe end of the fork cover, line up the holes in the corner of the board with the mounting posts on either side of the horn grille. Secure the board in place with two of the fixing screws.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 38
Stage 38 Contents: Remote Control, Top Cover, Control Buttons and Fixing Screws.
Fit the control buttons into the holes in the top cover of the remote control.
Fit the cover to the remote control, being careful as you fit the parts together. Make sure that the red LED fits through the hole in the cover and that the control buttons line up with the switches on the board. The infrared emitter fits through the hole at one end.
Ensure the cover is fitted flush all round, then take the four fixing screws and secure the cover in place. Make sure that the screws go right down into the recesses.
The remote control is ready for use after you have installed a set of batteries, (not supplied).
Batteries
The infrared remote control requires three LR44 button batteries, commonly used in small electronic devices. LR44 is the standard code used by the IEC (International Electrotechnical Commision) for 1.5 volt button alkaline batteries, but depending on the brand, they may also be stamped with numerous other codes, such as AG13, GPA76, SG13, S76 or 1166A. For example, Duracell uses PX76A and Varta uses V13GA.
This stage is now complete.
Carefully store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Guest (5)
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US
