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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/09/2012 Posts: 33 Points: 72 Location: Cornwall UK
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Hello, can anyone help, R2D2 not starting up initially so disconnect battery box from MCU check output as forum instructions, got 12.5 volts for about 5 secs then nothing ,got a replacement box , checked as instructions 12.5 volts for about 5 secs then nothing, what's wrong with the stuff Deagostini supply , for what the whole build cost its a ripoff, awaiting a third battery box , will use a different multimeter, but the multimeter should not be causing an overload on the battery box circuitry , very dissatisfied chap
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Can you confirm exactly what battery leed you are testing. The only leed you should be testing are the two thick red and black cables with the black connector at its end. The two other cables with white connectors should not be tested as you may cause damage the circuit board in the battery box. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/07/2018 Posts: 12 Points: 36 Location: USA
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So if i'm getting 0.0V testing the lead (black connector with thick red and black cable) - is it the battery box? Individual batteries are 4.18V or so
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/02/2019 Posts: 8 Points: 24 Location: Home
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The way I tested the battery box was to:
1. Take back off R2
2. Make sure R2 power switch was in the off position
3. Unplug thick connector from MCU (one with red and black wires)
4. Switch on R2
5. Test connector with mutli-meter.
When I tried to test the battery box totally disconnected from R2 it showed zero. One of the leads from the battery box links to the on/off switch so I used R2 to make sure it was switched on...
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/07/2018 Posts: 12 Points: 36 Location: USA
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scotsman wrote:The way I tested the battery box was to:
1. Take back off R2
2. Make sure R2 power switch was in the off position
3. Unplug thick connector from MCU (one with red and black wires)
4. Switch on R2
5. Test connector with mutli-meter.
When I tried to test the battery box totally disconnected from R2 it showed zero. One of the leads from the battery box links to the on/off switch so I used R2 to make sure it was switched on... That makes total sense and gave me hope!! Sadly, still no dice. Is there anyway to test the switch itself? Each battery tests fine. Just not getting any power out of the box unfortunately. Also, I assume I'm supposed to stick the multimeter probe into the connector correct? red probe to red part of connector contact and black probe to black wire contact?
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/02/2019 Posts: 8 Points: 24 Location: Home
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Yes, you have to stick the probes onto the internal connectors (metal bits), matching up the colours. I found it quite fiddly so make sure you definitely make contact with both at the same time and your multimeter is set to DC (mine was set to 20v DC range).
Have you tried taking the back off the battery box and testing the voltage there, you should see corresponding metal lugs that you can check the voltage across, you can also check where the cable comes out of the PCB though I got no joy there!
As for the switch you should be able to test it through continuity, I'm sure if the switch is off (nothing) and on (positive) so you could stick the probes into the lead from the switch and turn it off and on. I haven't tried this but it should tell you something...
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/07/2018 Posts: 12 Points: 36 Location: USA
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scotsman wrote:Yes, you have to stick the probes onto the internal connectors (metal bits), matching up the colours. I found it quite fiddly so make sure you definitely make contact with both at the same time and your multimeter is set to DC (mine was set to 20v DC range).
Have you tried taking the back off the battery box and testing the voltage there, you should see corresponding metal lugs that you can check the voltage across, you can also check where the cable comes out of the PCB though I got no joy there!
As for the switch you should be able to test it through continuity, I'm sure if the switch is off (nothing) and on (positive) so you could stick the probes into the lead from the switch and turn it off and on. I haven't tried this but it should tell you something...
Thank you. Yes I was able to take the back off the box and the individual terminals showed life 4.17V across various contacts. I also couldn't get a reading where the PCB is soldered to the cable. And still 0V at the connector. Ordered a new battery box - hopefully that fixes it. Thanks so much.
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