STAGE 12 – THROTTLE LINKAGE AND ALTERNATOR

PICTURE 13

These are the parts we get for this section of the build. A wheel and parts for the alternator.

PICTURES 14, 15 & 16

We fit together here the 3 alternator parts supplied with this section plus the alternator fan supplied earlier in the build.

PICTURES 17, 18 & 19

Lot of care required here as we fit the throttle linkage to the to of the cylinder head assemble. Looks quite complicated in the instructions but working around each locating pin in turn it all went together very well.

Only part that needs to be pressed into place with slightly more pressure is the gold coloured crank on the middle of the piece. Care needed as the plastic is very fine and excessive force could see you breaking this part.

Stage 12--agree, the gold part of the throttle linkage took a surprising amount of (carefully-applied!) force to fully seat---it's easy to get it 90% in, it's the last .5mm that's hard...

Stage 11--After looking at the photos in the instructions very carefully, I don't quite agree with even their "more accurate" version of the plug wiring arrangement---I re-did it to my own thought of how it is, based on the pics. (I believe that each *pair* of wires splits off as they go along, not "one by one, except for the last ones being a pair" like the instructions seem to describe) I looked at just about every pic I could find online, to try to confirm.

I'm expecting my next shipment this week---more interior bits, front tires, front compartment. :)

PACK 5 - LAMBORGHINI COUNTACH LP 500S – 26th MAY 2019

My Pack 5 arrived yesterday (25/05/19). This time it’s a 3-section set of parts. Its interesting as each pack seems to follow a pattern of 3 sections one month and 4 sections the next.

STAGE 15 – FITTING THE ALTERNATOR BRACKET

PICTURE 1

While not used in this section of the build the parts we receive with this section include the Oil Pan and Transmission Oil Pan along with the RH Alternator bracket which is needed.

PICTURES 2 & 3

Here we fit the RH bracket to the previously assembled alternator. I sat for a moment thinking “Mine does not look like the one in the instructions” only to realise I had built mine back to front (Note to Self “Pay more attention to the instructions)”.

No major issue to re-build as it was just a single screw holding the assemble together

What I have found is that some of the small screws are really a struggle to fully insert into the plastic parts so what I have found works is a quick “splash” of WD40 on the screw as that helps get the thing in place.

And that completes Stage 15.

STAGE 17 – ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE BLOCK

PICTURES 12 & 13

In this section we get the left and right engine block parts along with the front wheel and a couple of other small parts required later in the build.

What is worth a mention here is that the three parts are all metal so to avoid transit damage they have packed each of the engine block parts in their own bag and the wheel is protected in a small cardboard box. Nice touch that and shows a bit of though from the maker.

PICTURES 14 & 15

We need the starter from stage 13 and this is fixed to the LH engine block side. While this is putting a screw into a plastic part were the screw is 2.3mm dia I have been using the 2.3mm tap that I have. This makes fitting these screws so much easier.

PICTURE 16

Mentioned in one of my earlier posts that I would have expected this tap to have been included as part of the kit as “tapping out” certain holes on the model get a number of mentions. And in this instance, it’s the 2 holes arrowed in this picture.

PICTURES 17, 18 & 19

Here we fit the LH transmission case from stage 13 to the LH engine block side supplied with this section. Having threaded the 2 holes, the screws go in with no problems at all.

PICTURE 20

We then take the exhaust pipe LH side from stage 13 and fit this in place. Its held in place by 2 M2 x 5mm screws and again a “splash” of WD40 helps these to go in much easier.

PICTURE 21

We then repeat the whole process with the right-hand side – fitting transmission case to engine block and then the assembled exhaust pipe sections from stage 13.

Once that is done both halves are screwed together using 3 screws.
At this point the whole assemble is taking on some size as well as weight.

PICTURES 22, 23 & 24

The last part of the build in this section is to press fit the Differential Case Back Plate ensuring that the pin marked by the arrow lines up with the hole also marked with the arrow.

And that completes my STAGE 5 Build.

Just have the seats to lacquer and the exhaust parts to decal which I will look to finish once the weather picks up.

Malc

Many thanks for your comments which are much appreciated.

More or less up to date with this one at the moment as managed to finish the decals on the exhausts which i will most up shortly.

Tony

STAGE 18 – ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE BLOCK (2)

PICTURE 4

The parts included this time are the Centre Console, Centre Console Panel, Footguard, Heating Vents, Ashtray.

All of these are put away and not utilised until section 19.

PICTURE 5

In the guide to this section it is suggested we can add a little bit more life by painting the gaskets on the cylinder heads with black paint. Why this was not called out BEFORE these were installed is a bit of a mystery as it would have been easier at that point.

I do intend to follow the instructions and will get around to paining these parts at some point.

PICTURES 6, 7 & 8

They now have us installing the Alternator to the engine block and while I followed this step, I reversed it later and removed it as it made fitting the cylinder head very difficult, I found.

PICTURE 9

Recover the remaining Belt A from one of the earlier issues. This will be looped over the alternator and the instructions say to hold both that and the cylinder head spacer in place as you match the cylinder head to the engine block.

Over the last month of storage my taped together cables had all part company (Picture 10) so I had to tidy those up first.

Well being human and only having 2 arms and my mate “Olly the Octopus” being otherwise engaged it was something I was struggling with until I removed the alternation and bracket fitted previously.

That allowed everything to go together without any issues.

PICTURES 14, 15 & 16

We now put the Oil Pan into place and 2 screws are used to secure the whole assemble. Its into plastic so make sure the screws are tightened down enough to hold but not too much to strip out the plastic threading.
Once in place we use the 2 “Blanking Plates” as in Picture 15 to cover over these screw holes.

PICTURES 17, 18, 19 & 20

The final part of this section is to fit the oil pan onto the transmission casing.

This is just a press fit but make sure to line up the arrowed pin on both pieces.

Once the alternator fan belt is pulled over the other 2 pulleys and the throttle wire is fed into the hole in the engine block this section is complete.

PICTURE 21.

And here is a picture of the engine so far. It’s a massive thing so much so that it hardly fits inside my picture box.

And that completes Stage 18.

STAGE 20 – THE COCKPIT FLOOR

This time we get a very large part in the shape of the cockpit floor, the hand brake and a footrest.

PICTURE 34

The cockpit floor has a flocking material to give the impression of carpet so great care needed when working with this part not to damage or mark this in any way.

PICTURE 35

And its at this point we secure the centre console to the console tunnel with a single screw. Plastic again so care when tightening the screw so as not to strip out the hole.

PICTURES 36 & 37

The instructions (picture 37) make a big play on the fact you may have fit issues with the console tunnel onto the cockpit floor and it provides great detail on how to ensure this does not happen and if it does, how to correct it.

Mine went together with no problems.

PICTURES 38 & 39

And we complete this stage by pressing the hand brake into its location and peel the foot rest material off its backing sheet and stick it into place.

So, until the next shipment that completes Pack 6.

STAGE 22 – THE FRONT TYRE

The part included this time is the front tyre.

PICTURES 9 & 10

We remove the foam liner from the tyre, and then having brushed the tyre to remove any manufacturing debris (again none on mine) we flex the tyre to soften the rubber.

PICTURES 11 & 12

We need the wheel from stage 17 and having put the foam liner back into the tyre we fit the rubber tyre to the wheel.

The completed wheel is now stored away (along with the centre cap) safely until near completion of the build at which time the wheels get installed.

FIXINGS

PICTURE 13

In this month build guide we get a full-page screw guide that details which particular screws arrive with each section. It details how many are used at each stage and how many are left spare.

Now I have been rather lax here and never labelled my screws so now I am “confused”. Mainly because I have more spares of certain sizes at this point than the chart indicates I should have.

NOTE TO SELF: From no on make sure you label up the bags of screws as they arrive

STAGE 24 – THE SPARE TYRE

PICTURE 18

The parts included this time are Spare Tyre, Spare Wheel, Spare Tyre Cover, M2.3 x 6mm Self Tapping Screws x 2

PICTURE 19

With this tyre there is no foam liner so all we need to do is press the wheel into the tyre and ensure its all correctly seated.

PICTURES 20, 21, 22

We then need to fit the tyre cover into the wheel and when doing this we need to ensure the tab in the wheel and the slot on the cover line up when pressing the 2 parts together.

PICTURE 23

And the very last part of this stage is to place the wheel into the front compartment. Store this away safely until its needed again in a future build section.


So, until the next shipment that completes Pack 7.

Mark

Many thanks.

Quicker build this month around but must say the quality of the parts supplied to date are very good indeed.

I think out ofeverything i am doing at the moment i would put this as my favourite.

Tony