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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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PACK 2
STAGE 6
This set of parts will build into the other front hub and brake assembly but it also includes the shock absorber which is not fitted yet. Store those parts carefully in the polythene pack, along with the hub assembly which is built and painted in exactly the same way as the one before.
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 7
Included here is another wheel and tyre.
Again, this should be painted the same as the other wheel (if you are changing their colour) and then the details can be painted in and the tyre fitted.
The front hub assembly from stage 6 can now be fitted to the wheel as before.
Store the assembly safely for later use.roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 8
This pack contains the parts for the outside of the driver’s door.
If you intend giving your model a two-tone paint scheme, such as a different colour below the chrome waist strip, it should be started now, while the door panel is off the car.
There are two ways that you can add a different colour to the lower area of the car.
1: Paint
2: Self-adhesive vinyl
If you choose to paint your parts, it would be advisable to rub down the area to be painted with fine wet and dry. Take care not to scratch the chrome strip on the door.
There is no need to remove the existing paint as the added layer of another colour will hardly be noticed and will not affect the opening of the doors.
Prime the area first with automotive primer. Allow it to dry for 24 hours.
Apply several light coats of your chosen colour, finishing with one ‘flood’ coat to get a good gloss surface. Again, allow to dry for 24 hours.
Self-adhesive vinyl is another approach which will work easily on this model as the outer surfaces below the chrome strip are relatively flat.
You can buy A4 sheets of coloured vinyl on the web and they only cost a few pounds, usually even with free delivery.
An advantage of vinyl is that it is already highly glossy and is easy to alter if you make a mistake, unlike paint.
Simply cut out a piece about 10mm bigger all round than the area you are covering.
Peel back the backing paper about 10mm along one long edge. Do NOT remove all the backing paper. Check that there is no dust or particles on the door panel.
Apply the vinyl so that it is tight up against the edge of the chrome strip and smooth it down.
Ease the vinyl into place, working down the door. The backing paper will peel away of its own accord.
Polish the vinyl into place with a soft duster. Take care here as vinyl can actually scratch quite easily.
Any air bubbles in the vinyl can be pricked with a pin and gently pushed down.
Turn the panel over and cut the vinyl at the bottom corners as shown in the picture.
Fold the vinyl over the edges and onto the back of the door.
The door handle aperture can be pressed in firmly with your thumb and the vinyl should stretch to accommodate the recess. The handle fixing holes can be pushed through with a cocktail stick.
If you are going to add a custom paint effect using decals, you will need to print them first.
A set of images will be posted shortly and these need to be printed onto white waterslide transfer paper.
Should you wish to do this, please PM me so that I can send you much higher quality files for printing.
The decals need to be printed at the size stated on the art.
If you do not want to, or cannot print the decals but would like to add this finish, there are various custom decal sets available on the ‘Auction website’ we all know so well.
To apply the decals, simply cut out the one you wish to use – in this case, the driver’s door panel.
You will note that the decals are slightly bigger than the panel they go on. This is to allow for shrinkage when soaking them in warm water.
Do not cut the decal to the correct size.
Soak in warm water and apply to the pre-wetted door.
Gently smooth the decal into place and press out any air bubbles with a folded tissue.
Don’t worry if the decal looks a bit ‘wrinkled’ at this stage. Being a large area this is quite normal.
The decal will flatten as it dries. DO NOT use any kind of ‘decal-set’ on your own printed decals.
Wrap any overhanging decal edges around the outer edges of the door and allow to dry fully for at least 12 hours.
The door quarter-light and handle can then be assembled according to the instructions.
Also shown in the pictures below is how the custom bonnet (hood) decals are applied.
While these decals are drying, check constantly to carefully stretch out any wrinkles that may appear, particularly around the lower end of the bonnet which has more pronounced compound curves.
Any decal that is overlapping the panel edge at this point can be cut away with a new blade when the decal is fully dry.
As I mentioned before, full-size printable art will be provided shortly for anyone who wishes to give it a try.
As mentioned, custom decals are also available on a certain auction website should you not wish to make your own.
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 9
This set of parts will enable you to build the door window and fit the door hinges.
It is very straightforward but take care that you fit the hinges with the curved loops facing outwards.
NOTE: The instructions say there are two fixing screws per hinge.
There is only actually one fixing screw. The other hole in the hinge plate locates over a stud on the door panel.
If you are changing the body colour in any way, you will need to paint the hinges to match.
The window assembly is then fitted onto the door.roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 10
This pack contains the parts to make the inner door panel.
Assembly is very easy but if you intend trimming the interior then this will need to be done before you fit the handles etc.
As before with the seats, cut a panel of fabric slightly larger than the inner panel.
Note that there is a door pocket - size - 3.8mm x 2mm that will need adding.
Once your fabric is cut out – already backed with D/S tape, it can be applied to the panel.
Press it down very firmly all over and then laying it fabric side down, cut away the excess fabric with a sharp blade.
The door handle location holes can then be cut through from the back and then from the front.
The door pocket panel should be cut about 3mm taller than needed so that the upper edge can be folded down on itself. The panel can then be stuck to the door card in the correct position.
Fit the handles etc as per the instructions and then assemble the door by fitting the red panel first, and then clipping the inner door card in place.
Be very careful not to break off any of the fixing tabs as they are a tight clip-fit.
If you do accidentally break any, the door panel can be held in place using good double sided tape.
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 11
The parts here are to make the seat base and then assemble the seat.
Paper templates should be made as with the seat back previously but this time there are only two parts – the seat face and the seat edges.
When the fabric has been applied, press the seat surface detail into the material with the back of your thumb nail.
The seat can now be assembled as per the kit instructions.
You will have to carefully trim away small pieces of fabric to locate the screw fixing holes more easily.roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGES 12 & 13
The front sub frame is in part 12.
There is nothing to do with this part but it can be enhanced with a mist of red oxide or even dark brown to replicate dirt or light surface rust.
As mentioned before, the pictures make the red oxide look heavily applied but in fact it is not. Only a light misting is needed.
Part 13 contains the anti-roll bar which can also receive some light weathering before fitting it to the front sub frame.
The steering column bracket and front right wheel shock absorber base can also be fitted.
Carefully store the other parts in the pack which are not used at this stage.
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,215 Points: 12,790 Location: ipswich
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STAGE 14
This stage will allow you to fit the front track control arms and then both front wheels.
Again, all of this assembly is easy although you may find you need three hands to locate the hub upright on the wheel, the track control rod arm and then fit the fixing screw.
The track rod arms should also be given a light dusting of red oxide or brown.
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Beautifully done Roy, lovely work throughout....  Regards Alan
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