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DaDokta
#1 Posted : 28 May 2014 14:22:02

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I already posted this in my personal build diary - but maybe this is better fitting in this section:

Guys i need your help please!

In order to advance my McLaren i purchased the MuseumCollection Decals and now i have several problems.

The first thing is, that there comes nearly no translation of the japanese assembly guide with the decals - so for many of them i have no idea where to apply them. So i`m hoping, there are other builders in this forum with more knowledge, who will also apply these decals so that i can learn from their build diaries.

Second:
A part of the decals are hairlines for the insides of the front and rear wing sideplates.
Yesterday i disassembled my front wing to be able to apply the decals.
But in my opinion there is not very much of an effect visible:






I´ve no experiance with decals,so maybe i did something wrong?

First step I put Micro Set on the wing and after some watering of the decal i applied it on the part. Again i put Micro Set on the decal and let it dry. Last step was applying a coat of satin-matt varnish.

Is this the right procedure? Or maybe do i have to prepare the part i want to put the decal on in some way - paint it in some other colour maybe to make the effect of the decal stand out a bit more?

I´m asking because with the monocoque decals it says in one of the rare translations to first paint the part silver and then apply a coat of clear smoke-yellow varnish (no idea, what that should be!) - befor applying the decals. So i thought maybe one has to follow this procedure with the other parts too?

I know, this is a long post and many questions - but maybe someone can provide a little help!!

Thank you very much
DaDokta
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48

On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
Warthog
#2 Posted : 28 May 2014 14:51:18

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The reason that you can see the detail while the decal is on the backing paper is because it is exactly that what is showing through, when you apply certain decals you will have to give the area being covered a different colour backing so that the detail will show through. An example is the "tub" decals that need different shades so that each panel will reflect the carbon fibre being used.

Spencer
Eagle
#3 Posted : 28 May 2014 16:21:01

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DaDatoka I share your pain: I also have bought all the Museum Collection decals for this model, so far they are disappointing. I am satisfied with the end plate decals, as the real car's end plates do not show much pattern-I did not apply an overcoat because I was satisfied with the sheen and texture 'as is'. I attempted to cover the front brake ducts with the supplied decals , it was a mess! There are too many contours for the decals to follow causing massive wrinkles, bubbles and tears, even when using Micro Sol solutions for setting and and 'painting' to try to set them in place- it was also a 'fail' for the black turbo inlets-again too many contours. Also the turbo inlet decals have a silver background, which is incorrect.
I do thank you for the colors recommended for the tub-I was not able to find a translation for the instructions either.
At this point I am changing my thinking on how I want to build;the chassis tub color isn't to my liking, I may opt to just use black, or leave it the factory color. Getting the massive decal to to fit and get all the bubbles out will be a challenge, to say the least.
DaDokta
#4 Posted : 28 May 2014 18:30:07

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Thanks Spencer and Eagle,


@Spencer: As all the decals are delivered on a blueish backing paper - does this mean i have to paint the parts in that colour to get the effect right?
If not - how does one know which basic colour to apply before putting the decals on??

I´m really stuck here!!

I could go back to building without the decals - but they were pretty expensive!
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48

On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
Warthog
#5 Posted : 28 May 2014 19:18:20

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@Eagle and DaDokta

The easiest way to explain this is in pictures as everyone has there own way of doing it and the type of decal also has an impact on what it is your trying to achieve...

Teru has used the same process that I use and have used in the past with certain carbon decals but I have not used MC decals so I can't comment on those particular ones but the process that they print theirs is familiar with transparent detail.
So If the backing paper where red then you would see a slight reddish tint fibre effect and so on.

Here is a link to his blog and you can see that he has used different golds etc to get the effect he wants to achieve.

http://terushobby.blog24.fc2.com/category7-1.html

I know you guys have spent a bundle on the decals and I guess you want your builds to stand out and kudos for doing that but as you have already found out, there is more to it than just applying them and the last thing I/we want is for you to damage your builds.. I've seen it before and corrected a lot of MP4/23's because of it but it's your model and although I can't really comment on the MC decals as they are not provided by DeAGostini, you will of course have all the help I can offer to assist you with building the MP4/4.

@Eagle

The microsol can be funny at times and I have had decals that just do not want to sit or form to the part being applied but there is a trick to this.... Get yourself a nice hot(ish) saucer of water and drop the bottle into it (the bottle itself not the solution and make sure the lid is on) and warm it up for about 20 seconds, once have your decal in position start applying the warm microsol solution to the decal and keep working it in gently adding more as it starts to dry out. Keep the bottle warm if it cools down.. You don't want it hot ok, just warm. The decal will start to soften and do what you want it to do...

The same method is used when using paint spray cans as it helps the flow of paint but that's another story..


Spencer
DaDokta
#6 Posted : 28 May 2014 20:48:52

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Thanks for the link and the info, Spencer!

Well,looking at the pics of the japanese modeller, i think i will have to go the non-decal way - at least regarding the carbon ones.

I always thought - it`s just applying the decals on the original part.
Didn`t know there is so much behind it.

Could have saved a lot of money!!

Well i think it will be a heck of a model, even without the decals!


Greeting,
Walter
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48

On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
Warthog
#7 Posted : 28 May 2014 21:40:07

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It really is a stunning kit Walter and in my honest opinion, one that does not need all the xtra carbon. Some carbon applied in the right places can personalise a beautiful build to your taste but too much is overkill and (I'm being honest here) could spoil the overall build. It's a matter of personal choice though so don't let my views stop you but I think you will have more joy building such a fine kit as it was intended..

Spencer
haha161
#8 Posted : 01 June 2014 05:57:22

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when using museum collection cabon decals,

i spray painted the surface with gaia gunmetal first, then lightly coated with mr.color smoke grey

after apply the decal, light coated with gaia flat clear

here is the result






Steve279021
#9 Posted : 01 June 2014 09:45:22

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All these extra decals sounds like too much and a bit overkill. All I'm going to do on mine is the marlboro ones and even them I'm not sure on yet. I have already bought them though so probably they will be going on!
Senna mclaren mp4/4 build complete mp4/4 build http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=12029

Dodge charger build
https://forum.deagostini....1686229545.1.1.utmcsr=(direct)|utmccn=(direct)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=9709046
haha161
#10 Posted : 01 June 2014 10:27:45

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also, with or without the marlboro decal looks very different,

Warthog
#11 Posted : 01 June 2014 11:00:32

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Welcome to Modelspace haha161 and thanks for sharing Cool

Spencer
haha161
#12 Posted : 01 June 2014 11:19:35

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hi all,

for you guys and girls info,

they have limited edition display case, also this plate as an option,

will pick up the plate next week,post picture after


http://blog.goo.ne.jp/ma...fb8bb619574c4b39cdff4f6

http://blog.goo.ne.jp/ma...2cdae3d61723cd4263342f7



g-funk
#13 Posted : 01 June 2014 19:14:19

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The display case and plate option look like they're made by DeAgostini, or at least in partnership with them. Any chance of getting them in the US?
Eagle
#14 Posted : 02 June 2014 01:08:20

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What a beautiful display case! I'd be a buyer if we can get shipping to the USA, translating the text doesn't provide any answers though.
frah2o
#15 Posted : 12 September 2019 10:32:42

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Hi, i'm buying this Museum collection decal set to try to improve my mp4/4.

I ever used a carbon decal that is not important the color base.

I undestand (reading previuos post) that MC decal need a base color.

I have some question before to preoceed in purchase.

- The base color of undertray (beije and brown) are good from the kit ore need to by resprayed?

- The base color for the bronze carbon area of monocoque....is a good idea pale gold + smoke? Is the same color for front and rear area of monocoque

- The base color for side wing pods is gunmetal?

- The color base for "standard" carbon is matt black?


Sory for many question, but is the firsr time for Museum Collection decal.

Thanks a lot
frah2o attached the following image(s):
museum-collection-decals-d680-for-deagostini-mclaren-mp4-4-1-8-monocoque.jpg
museum-collection-decals-d692-for-deagostini-mclaren-mp4-4-1-8-nosecone.jpg
museum-collection-decals-d704-for-deagostini-mclaren-mp4-4-1-8-underbody-front.jpg
museum-collection-decals-d705-for-deagostini-mclaren-mp4-4-1-8-underbody-rear.jpg
museum-collection-decals-d718-for-deagostini-mclaren-mp4-4-1-8-hair-line-pattern.jpg
Collection active: Lotus 97T, Audi Quattro A2, Vw Maggiolino '60

Work in progress: Porsche 911 RS Turbo

Completed model: Delta WRC Martini, Mclaren MP4/4, Golf GTI 1/8 Tuned
arpurchase
#16 Posted : 12 September 2019 13:00:08

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BigGrin Hi, the gold areas are actually kevlar yellow. For the grey areas use a carbon grey paint both are available from Zero paints. As for the matt black the weave of the carbon fibre decal is black if I remember correctly so using a black base coat will lose the effect you may want to go with the grey or a darker grey.The browns I would look at pictures to get a better idea of correct colour here.

Decals are best placed on a gloss finish this won't show through the clear part of the decal and you can always give it a matt coat if it needs dulling down.

Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

frah2o
#17 Posted : 13 September 2019 07:46:29

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arpurchase wrote:
BigGrin Hi, the gold areas are actually kevlar yellow. For the grey areas use a carbon grey paint both are available from Zero paints. As for the matt black the weave of the carbon fibre decal is black if I remember correctly so using a black base coat will lose the effect you may want to go with the grey or a darker grey.The browns I would look at pictures to get a better idea of correct colour here.

Decals are best placed on a gloss finish this won't show through the clear part of the decal and you can always give it a matt coat if it needs dulling down.



Thanks to much for Help Ar. I've seen in references bog that this area is like a camaleont. In some pics seems bronze in other yellow like kevlar.

I 've a spar decal from MC to use for experiments. Now i'll do some test with, amber, brown and bronz base color hoping to rech the right color.

Thank also for tips for black carbon and other
Collection active: Lotus 97T, Audi Quattro A2, Vw Maggiolino '60

Work in progress: Porsche 911 RS Turbo

Completed model: Delta WRC Martini, Mclaren MP4/4, Golf GTI 1/8 Tuned
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