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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2011 Posts: 206 Points: 614 Location: halifax
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hey everyone im having a problem with the lower wale at the stern the instructions say place 3 #70 on top of each other & make sure the strip is flush does it need to be flush with the edge of the bottom piece or does it sit under it, it looks wrong when its sat flush wit the edge due to it been less thgen 12mm & its quite a slant uphill this way but looks fine when its under it
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi cal!  You use the 3 part number 70 pieces supplied in issue 41 as a guide to fitting the 3mm x 1mm top plank of the lower wale, so that the bottom of the plank is flush to the bottom of the 3rd part 70 about 12mm under the gallery section all the way to the stern, then remove the parts 70's and store them safely away until needed later in the build. They should be an even 9mm gap between the top of the 3mm x 1mm plank and the underside of the gallery. This will align the rest of the planks of the lower wale so that they fit right at the stern as the bottom plank goes under the gallery. 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2011 Posts: 206 Points: 614 Location: halifax
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is that 9mm to carry on across the lenth of the ship it looks odd having an even gap then it suddenly rises up at the back
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi cal! No it's 9mm gap under the gallery the rest of the wale would be around 12mm gap. A lot will depend on who you set the middle wale, I take it that you used the 300mm length wood supplied for the wales, I used 1000mm wood from my own supply so I could get a smooth curve to the wales. Here is the pictures from my build with closeups of the bow and stern to show how the wales curve up slowly at the stern. On every ship the wales will follow a slightly different path across the hull.   
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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She looks incredible mate...Totally awestruck  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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Absolutely fantastic build there sob
Willz
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Son of Bulwark wrote:Hi cal! No it's 9mm gap under the gallery the rest of the wale would be around 12mm gap. A lot will depend on who you set the middle wale, I take it that you used the 300mm length wood supplied for the wales, I used 1000mm wood from my own supply so I could get a smooth curve to the wales. Very impressed by your build. Can anybody tell me where I can obtain lengths of 1000mm wood fo my wales It really makes a difference First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi Deepseacodmaster, I bought mine from Cornwall Model Boats. Very reasonably priced and next day delivery (most days)  http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/
Happy building Daffy09
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Thanks for the info Cal First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Hi Everybody I have used the 1000 mm lenghts from Cornwall Model Boats and have been able to get a very good curve on the wales. I would recomend using these lenghts to anybody who has not reached this stage yet. I also used superglue GEL 151 (£1:00 for a pack of three tubes at my local pound store) to secure them. Will post photos soon about using 12mm blocks for obtaining the correct distances between them. First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Deepseacodmaster wrote:Hi Everybody I have used the 1000 mm lenghts from Cornwall Model Boats and have been able to get a very good curve on the wales. I would recomend using these lenghts to anybody who has not reached this stage yet. I also used superglue GEL 151 (£1:00 for a pack of three tubes at my local pound store) to secure them. Will post photos soon about using 12mm blocks for obtaining the correct distances between them. From the above it sounds as if you have run continuous plank lengths from one end of the hull to the other, in order to create the wales. Has anybody considered building up their wales from scale lengths of timber and has anybody tried to adopt 'anchor stock' planking as would have been the case on the real ship. To explain 'anchor stock' planking would require a diagram such as the one on page 67 of Longridges book and I dare not reproduce that here because of the wrath of the Tomick  It involves tapered interlocking timbers to provide greater longitudinal strength in the hull to help prevent 'hogging' in a rough sea. Mike T
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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question has the whales to have a perfict curve to them and as mike said if done in scale planks would the planks be cuarved or stright i know they pick trees as close as to the shape they needed but were they that fussy about the whales 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Quote:From the above it sounds as if you have run continuous plank lengths from one end of the hull to the other, in order to create the wales. Has anybody considered building up their wales from scale lengths of timber and has anybody tried to adopt 'anchor stock' planking as would have been the case on the real ship. To explain 'anchor stock' planking would require a diagram such as the one on page 67 of Longridges book and I dare not reproduce that here because of the wrath of the Tomick It involves tapered interlocking timbers to provide greater longitudinal strength in the hull to help prevent 'hogging' in a rough sea. Mike T Correct Mike,I have used continual lenghts. Since I am painting my build, I am not going too deep into the construction of the parts, just keeping them as best I can First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Mike Turpin wrote:Deepseacodmaster wrote:Hi Everybody I have used the 1000 mm lenghts from Cornwall Model Boats and have been able to get a very good curve on the wales. I would recomend using these lenghts to anybody who has not reached this stage yet. I also used superglue GEL 151 (£1:00 for a pack of three tubes at my local pound store) to secure them. Will post photos soon about using 12mm blocks for obtaining the correct distances between them. From the above it sounds as if you have run continuous plank lengths from one end of the hull to the other, in order to create the wales. Has anybody considered building up their wales from scale lengths of timber and has anybody tried to adopt 'anchor stock' planking as would have been the case on the real ship. To explain 'anchor stock' planking would require a diagram such as the one on page 67 of Longridges book and I dare not reproduce that here because of the wrath of the Tomick It involves tapered interlocking timbers to provide greater longitudinal strength in the hull to help prevent 'hogging' in a rough sea. Mike T Mike, it would appear that common sense is not prevailing!
You have been repeatedly told why copyrighted images are not allowed in this forum, or for that matter copied anywhere without permission from the owner of the image!
I don't make such law's, and if you have a problem with it then I suggest you get in touch with the powers that be who create such laws!
Maybe you would prefer that the owner take action against you for breach of Copyright? 
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Hi Tom
There is no need to shout in red because of a smiley comment!
Talking of common sense there is a concept in copyright law of 'fair usuage' and if I was the author of a book, I certainly wouldn't sue a individual for giving that book some publicity with no commercial gain, providing the extract is small and properly attributed.
However it is clear that the policy on this site is not to 'risk' any interpretation of the law and that is why I clearly did not add an image - only a 'joke' which unfortunately you reacted to
Mike T
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 369 Points: 1,150 Location: Broadstairs
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Mike Turpin wrote:Deepseacodmaster wrote:Hi Everybody I have used the 1000 mm lenghts from Cornwall Model Boats and have been able to get a very good curve on the wales. I would recomend using these lenghts to anybody who has not reached this stage yet. I also used superglue GEL 151 (£1:00 for a pack of three tubes at my local pound store) to secure them. Will post photos soon about using 12mm blocks for obtaining the correct distances between them. From the above it sounds as if you have run continuous plank lengths from one end of the hull to the other, in order to create the wales. Has anybody considered building up their wales from scale lengths of timber and has anybody tried to adopt 'anchor stock' planking as would have been the case on the real ship. To explain 'anchor stock' planking would require a diagram such as the one on page 67 of Longridges book and I dare not reproduce that here because of the wrath of the Tomick It involves tapered interlocking timbers to provide greater longitudinal strength in the hull to help prevent 'hogging' in a rough sea. Mike T There is a better illustration of this on page 36,it is the pull out 'Outboard profile' TIS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Quote:From the above it sounds as if you have run continuous plank lengths from one end of the hull to the other, in order to create the wales. Has anybody considered building up their wales from scale lengths of timber and has anybody tried to adopt 'anchor stock' planking as would have been the case on the real ship. To explain 'anchor stock' planking would require a diagram such as the one on page 67 of Longridges book and I dare not reproduce that here because of the wrath of the Tomick It involves tapered interlocking timbers to provide greater longitudinal strength in the hull to help prevent 'hogging' in a rough sea. Mike T Hi Mike I managed to buy a second hand Longrihges book. I now know what you mean. Page 67 gives an excellent explanation Page 54 gives information about bugs!!!! see http://forum.model-space.co.uk/default.aspx?g=posts&m=33037&#post33037All together a fine book, I will be reading it while I wait for the copper plating instructions !!!!!!!!! First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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