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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Hi All,
Has anyone started the copper plating yet?
I have fitted a microstrip along the waterline & painted it black, to give the plates a solid surface to butt to (as Keith Juliers' Caldercraft build)
I am not sure where to start with the plating though, the Caldercraft instructions suggest starting at the keel & Keith Julier suggests starting at the waterline and running down to a pre-determined 'gore line' if that's the correct terminology. The waterline line idea is attractive as it means no odd cuts at an area which is very visible to people viewing the model.
I know I should wait for the instructions to be posted, but am keen to get on with my build now, especially as I am on hols at moment & have the time.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Wilfy
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 Rank: Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi Wilfy; Tomick posted this link a while back as a guide (not neccesarily how DeAg will do it but a good watch anyway. Hope it helps you a little Happy building Daffy09 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks for the link Daffy.
Is useful but think I need a bit more.
Wilfy
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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I will be fitting a 1.5 x 1.5mm rubbing strake along the water line to allow the tiles to butt to. also I will start from the Keel up. I do not expect the tiles to be straight at the waterline, there will be a curved effect as it would have been on the real Victory. Other people will have their own methode. I will see what MR T does before I make my decision in stone. MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Owing to the copper tiling set taking longer than the publisher had hoped for in development, and to keep pace with the posting of the weekly build, the 'official build' has followed the route of a copper painted hull, rather than it having copper tile's.
However, complete instructions will be made available for everyone who has decided they want to copper tile their hull. These instructions will shortly be added into the articles page, and will be posted in a separate section in the forum.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Tomick wrote:Owing to the copper tiling set taking longer than the publisher had hoped for in development, and to keep pace with the posting of the weekly build, the 'official build' has followed the route of a copper painted hull, rather than it having copper tile's.
However, complete instructions will be made available for everyone who has decided they want to copper tile their hull. These instructions will shortly be added into the articles page, and will be posted in a separate section in the forum. Looking forward to seeing the instructions. Anybody got any idea of the manhours it will take to do the tiling  First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 462 Points: 1,299 Location: Tortuga !
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Quote:Looking forward to seeing the instructions.
Anybody got any idea of the manhours it will take to do the tiling
Just as a guess, 1 minute per tile x 4500 = 75 hours, and thats only at a minute!!! lol Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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RussG wrote:Quote:Looking forward to seeing the instructions.
Anybody got any idea of the manhours it will take to do the tiling
Just as a guess, 1 minute per tile x 4500 = 75 hours, and thats only at a minute!!! lol Will these hrs include marking the rivits !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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To be factual the rivets would not have been seen at this scale, I will be leaving them plain  MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Not factual Mike -- More like a matter of opinion which is best!  Mike T
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Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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seeing the rivets is best for me
Willz
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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You are right, it is a matter of opinion, Plain or show rivets, I should have stressed this,  But you must agree Mike with the purists (you being an expert on navel Facts)that at this scale you would not be able to see a rivet, is that correct or not?  MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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As I said, matter of opinion. The rivets may be small but each indentation creates a 'border' effect which I think would be seen. It's a question of compromise, the Caldercraft plates have 16 x 6 rivets round the sides of the plate and to me look pretty good. The proof of the pudding will be the final effect when I get around to that stage.
However, if you want plain sheets we can compare and will probably agree to disagree which is what all the fun in modelling is about!
BTW have you acquired 'the book' yet??
Mike T
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The size of the tacks on the calder tiles would likely represent the size of boltheads on the real thing though are meant to be a 'representation', but because the tiles are tack marked all the way around each tile, it gives a double tack line look to each seam line, where in reality to look right it should be a single row of tacks per seam line because of the tiles being overlapped.
So, yes Mike compromises often have to be made, but as for look then its down to personal choice and opinion, where many are also happy with a copper painted finish.
Its just a case of how far you want to take it, and out of fairness, a wrongly tacked tile with double tack seams might as well be a tile without any tacks, but at least a plain tile gives you the option to tack mark if you prefer.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Interesting photo of a re-sheath Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Could it be Lonestar's LEGO men??? Mike T
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The thought had crossed my mind too 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Can anybody recomend an adesive for fixing the coper plates to the hull? First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Its down to personal choice, some use contact adhesive some use a thick or gel type Superglue.
You might want to try 'Loctite Ultra Gel', which is specially formulated with rubber for applications requiring some flexibility and shock resistance, and being a gel it wont run; it certainly hang's onto tiles better than a normal superglue, and don't forget to seal the wood surface.
Its also a good idea to key the glue side of each tile with a fine emery paper, simply lay a number of tiles face onto the sticky side of masking tape, and a quick rub over.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Thanks for the informative and helpful advice MR T. One further question however Is it advisable to seal the planking before painting it or should the paint be applied directly to the wood? I had been thinking of sealing the planking then painting the copper color under the wateline before I put the copper plates in place. My ideal being to camouflage any small gaps I may end up with. Thanks again for your help First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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