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 Rank: Elite    Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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I would suggest you leave it altogether for now. There is still a huge amount to do in this area to complete the gallery at a later stage including a lot of sanding to create the correct shape for the rear of the ship. It will all come together at that point.
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 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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OK thanks, John.
I will love on with the bow deck, bowsprit and wale strips.
Chris
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Taken Johns advice and left any more work on the gallery.
I thought I would read the mags about positioning the wales, starting with the middle one.
Apart from locating the stem end of the top row of middle wale planks, I cannot see any mention of how
to align the wale as it passes along the side of the hull.
Can anybody assist me in this or do I just set the wale as visually close as the large photo in the mag?
Thanks
Chris
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Hi Chris, have a look at stage 42 of the Official Video build, hopefully it will make things a lot clearer for you... https://www.youtube.com/...u2T7tQIBv4&index=19
If you're still not sure then by all means get back to me.....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thank you Alan.
I will re-watch The Official Build video and start setting the wales out.
I f I do have a problem, I will certainly ask again.
Chris
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Port-side middle and lower wales fitted. Any comments from you guys would be appreciated before I continue with the starboard side. goddo attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Couple more port side wale pics. goddo attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Very neat work. Your hull planking turned out very well. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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I have reached the point where I am trying to fill all the pin holes and small gaps between planks, ready for the final sanding. Having tried both of the fillers below with little success (They don't seem to "take" and fall out again on light sanding) I wondered if anyone had some other types that have used successfully or am I not making the filler wet enough when I apply it? Thanks for your help. Chris goddo attached the following image(s):
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The filler I use for all my wooden ship builds is Ronseal Wood Filler. It has served me very well to date, easy to apply, easy to sand and comes in various colours....
Regards
Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thanks for the rapid response, Alan.
I would imagine that with all the concerns over coronavirus and self isolation, there will be an increase on the modelling front.
Keep safe everyone.
Kind Regards
Chris
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/11/2017 Posts: 493 Points: 1,482 Location: South Norfolk
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goddo wrote:I have reached the point where I am trying to fill all the pin holes and small gaps between planks, ready for the final sanding.
Having tried both of the fillers below with little success (They don't seem to "take" and fall out again on light sanding) I wondered if anyone had some other types that have used successfully or am I not making the filler wet enough when I apply it?
Thanks for your help.
Chris Hi Chris, My personal preference is the wood filler in the tub, I tried both that one and the milliput. The milliput is definitely better for larger gaps (>1mm) or for planks not fully in level on the lower hull because it's thicker, however I had bad experience to paint it, especially with the copper paint. See a photos attached from my hull painting, you can see few lighter areas. Even if the previous coat fully dried, when I applied the next coat, the previous coat just came off... I ended up applying the coats very gently, but the areas are still showing... the last photo is after three coats, I covered just the whiteish area with a fourth cout very gently. After this incident I only used the wood filler in the tab, worked for me very well. I found it easier to apply in with my fingers rather than sculpturing tools (sorry, I don't know their proper name). Use the filler generously to able push it into the gaps. Once it's dried the excess can be easily sanded off and no issue to paint it. I hope it helps. Laszlo gingerale75 attached the following image(s): Happy building! Laszlo Finished builds: HMS Victory, HMS Victory Cross-Section
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/11/2017 Posts: 493 Points: 1,482 Location: South Norfolk
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Hi Chris, Referring to your previous question to me regarding masking the gunports. If I would have to use air gun to spray the black/yellow stripes onto the hull then I would try to use something similar like on the images below. Sorry for their quality, I just drafted a 3D model. Cut shapes from a thicker paper (e.g. cereal box) and then fold it to a cup-like shape. Then it can be pushed into each gunport and then remove it with tweezers once painting finished. The thicker paper required to provide sufficient pressure to the insides of the ports. You could try normal A4 printer paper too, but in this case I would add a tiny strip of double sided tape to stick each side of the cup to the gunport linings. In this case it's better if the shape is a proper cross with right angles all around rather than the first image below. Of course, it's a pretty big job considering there are 90+ gun ports... I hope it helps... gingerale75 attached the following image(s): Happy building! Laszlo Finished builds: HMS Victory, HMS Victory Cross-Section
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thanks for giving my predicament so much thought Laszlo.
Your idea of the card "cross" sounds a good way forward if indeed I do decide to spray.
Another idea I had was to get a length of 10mm square balsa, sand it lightly to make just a tad smaller, then cut short lengths to get an interference fit into each gunport.
Not sure if it would work but It would probably stop most of the spray going into the opening.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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gingerale75 wrote:
After this incident I only used the wood filler in the tab, worked for me very well. I found it easier to apply in with my fingers rather than sculpturing tools (sorry, I don't know their proper name). Use the filler generously to able push it into the gaps. Once it's dried the excess can be easily sanded off and no issue to paint it.
I hope it helps.
Laszlo I didn't really get on with the paste in the tub, but I'm sure that's just me. After reading Alans {Gandale} advice, I tried Ronseal neutral wood filler paste and it seems to be adequate for all the pin holes and minor gaps between planks. I'm still not decided yet whether to paint the lower hull or tile it but I shall remember your warning about some fillers showing through.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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After what seems ages, I have competed fitting the wales and filling sanding all of the plank gaps and pin holes. The port side middle wale does look a bit "out of kilter"to me but I tried to keep the relationship with port holes and the lower wale as I think they should be and in keeping with the instructions. goddo attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/11/2017 Posts: 493 Points: 1,482 Location: South Norfolk
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Hi Chris, Looks very good so far, still long way to go but I'm sure you'll conquer at the end. Happy building! Laszlo Finished builds: HMS Victory, HMS Victory Cross-Section
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Lovely work, looks excellent.   Mark
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Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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Looking really great so far!Greetings,
Walter
Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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A bit of guidance would be appreciated here, please. The photo at the bottom of page 250 (Stage 44) shows the slotted holes of the stem and the stem reinforcement plate coinciding nicely. If you look at the photo of my build, there is a distinct overlap. The reinforcement plate is pushed up to the wales as far as it will go. Can anybody tell me where I am going wrong, please? SORRY,,,, PLEASE SEE MY NEXT POST.....SHOULD HAVE CHECKED THE VIDEO FIRST. goddo attached the following image(s):
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