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MISSING KEEL SLOT PICTURES 33 & 34Looking at the cut sheet supplied with the kit it shows (pic 33 arrowed) that there should be a slot that will accept one of the deck support beams. This should look similar to one on the bow section that we can see in Pic 34. PICTURES 35 & 36Looking at the keel (pic 35 arrowed) we can see that the slot that should be in place is missing. All we have is a slot for the frame to slip into (Pic 36). Now this took some time to work out because while there are pictures to follow in the pictorial guide this area is not well shown and is way to small to work out just how that deck beam support fits. So again, it’s a case of looking at the plans, looking at the cut sheet and trying to piece together the “jigsaw” of info. PICTURES 37, 38 & 39Fairly easy to resolve using the measurements of the slot already in place at the bow we transfer those markings to this missing slot area (pic 37). Using a very fine saw blade, we very carefully cut out the marked slot (pic 38). With the frame back in place (pic 39) we can see the slot we have just mead that will hold one of the deck support beams. PICTURE 40And “dear oh dear” these are the 5 deck support beams that come pre-cut with the kit. Lining them up side by side I think you can make up your own mind as to just how useful these will be. The idea is that they should be curved so that when the deck is in place it has a slight camber. Now at this stage I have 2 options: a. Use these deck beams curved side down so that the deck sits on a level flat surface. b. Try and remake all 5 parts so that they are all even and the deck sits correctly on the camber. Not at that stage yet so time for a break and a home-made Pizza I think 😊 birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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GLUING THE FRAMES INTO THE KEEL PICTURE 40AI am fairly comfortable that I am now at the stage I can start gluing the frame sections into the keel. One thing I did notice is that there is a “lot” of movement on some of the frame pieces. So, while its fairly easy to ensure they are fitting at right angles to the keel, what we do need to watch for is the “left/right” movement of these pieces. Again, individual modellers may have their own ways of overcoming this issue. For me I get around this by finding the centre line of the frame and then add in the width of the keel. Pic 40A shows how I have marked this frame up (and although not shown in in this picture I re-worked the marking as I had it slightly off centre in this picture. PICTURE 41 & 42In Pic 41 we can see how this marking works. If the frame is off centre to the left or the right, we see the markings we added. When its correctly centred (pic 42) those marking disappear. PICTURES 43 & 44And to end this present update these 2 pictures show the first frame glued into place. I have used Lego blocks on the occasion to ensure the parts glues at right angles to the keel. I wait until each frame is fully set before moving on to ensure nothing goes out of alignment so once all of these are in place, I will post a further update. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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All looking good Tony, you're attention to detail will pay huge dividends much later in the build.... .. Look forward to your next update..... Regards Alan
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Lovely work Tony, coming together very nicely. Mark
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,227 Points: 6,801 Location: UK
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Tony, looking forward to seeing this build rolling on as it was one off my first plastic builds to many years ago. Regards Trev Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Alan/Mark/Trev Many thanks for your comments - much appreciated. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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THE MAYFLOWER – 01st MARCH 2020 CONTINUED - GLUING THE FRAMES INTO THE KEELPICTURE 14Picking up from were we left off last time, we continue to glue the remaining frames into the keel. Remembering to ensure the piece are glued in square and true on both their left/right and front/back axis. PICTURE 15In theory we should continue gluing the frames to the keel in numbered order. However, looking at what we have to work with, if the Left-hand frame in pic 15 is glued in first it will make it more difficult to clamp up the remaining frame 12. PICTURES 16, 17 & 18So, I decided to glue frame 12 in prior to frame 11. Here you can see this frame has to be glued in at an angle, flush with the rear of the keel as arrowed in Pic 17. The use of Lego blocks allows us to easily created an angled clamping surface Pic 18. PICTURES 19 & 20Once frame 12 is dry we can glue in the final frame 11. We have more room to work here in terms of being able to clamp the piece while it dries. Its worth noting that this frame is also glued in at an angle. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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MAST SUPPORT BLOCKSPICTURE 2Along 3 areas of the keel we need to widen the width of the keel so that at a later stage we can drill the mast placement holes. Parts 20 are required for the first of these. PICTURES 3, 4 & 5Referring to the parts list we look up Parts 20 and can see these are pre-cut parts that are found in parts bag 15. PICTURES 6, 7 & 8Having found the required parts we can see (pic 7 & 8) that when put in place the angle of the keel will not allow these parts to sit flush with the top of the keel. PICTURES 9 Through 13So, what we do is line up one edge of this mast support block with the top of the keel and then pencil line along the part. You can see in picture 9 that this gives us a triangular fillet that needs to be removed. Easiest option on this particular part is to just saw off the excess (Pic 10) We can d the same with the second block and then glue both into place against the frame and false keel. PICTURES 13A, 13B, 13C & 13DWe do exactly the same wit the next mast support blocks. The main difference here is that the keel angle is very slight so rather than resorting to the saw to remove part of the block, we can glue these into place. Once dry all we need to do is run a file over the surface to level up the block length with the top of the keel. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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MAKING BOW FILLER BLOCKSPICTURES 21, 22 & 23To support the planks at the bow the kit provides 2 pre-cut blocks that are to be glued as show on in picture 23. Having looked at the parts they look more like “Charcoal Briquettes” rather than providing the required gluing surface. I think if these were used as is and then faired at a later stage its highly likely a lot of that charred wood will just fall away. PICTURES 24, 25, 26 & 27Rather than use the kit supplied parts I decided to try and make my own from balsa wood. I had a couple of blocks of rather hard balsa that was around a centimetre thick so I transferred the bow filler pattern onto this balsa sheet. What is worth noting is the bow filler blocks should have a rear cut out that will allow one of the deck support beams to be glued in place but its missing on the supplied parts. Picture 25 arrowed you can see how I have marked up that required cut out. My intention is to completely fill the bow section with balsa so that the resulting planks have a better surface area to glue around. Some time ago I was fortunate enough to pick up a Dremel Moto Saw (basically a fret saw) for a reasonable price (Picture 26). Its one of those tools that rarely will get used but when there is a need for it, its invaluable. Now I am certainly no fret saw expert so I am fairly pleased with the results I managed to achieve that you can see here in picture 27. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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INSTALLING BOW FILLER BLOCKSPICTURES 28, 29 & 30The intention is to install 4 blocks either side of the false keel. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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SHAPING THE BOW FILLER BLOCKSPICTURES 31 & 32We need to give ourselves some idea on just how much of these filler blocks we need to remove. Taking Part 15 from the false deck pre-cut sheet we can use the part to draw around and give ourselves a “cut mark” to work to when shaping this area. Its interesting to note that the board carrying the deck sections is die cut, and die cut poorly. The parts are only around 50% cut through so you can just press these parts out but need to employ careful use of the craft knife to deepen the cut and eventually remove the part. PICTURES 33 & 34I mentioned earlier that the balsa used is quite hard and therefore to reduce some of the filing required I decided to chop of a few sections of excess balsa. Another tool I rarely use (Picture 33) is this craft saw from Tamiya. Reminds me more of the “Surgeons Bone Saw” but that said it does a fair job of quickly removing material with little effort. PICTURES 35, 36, 37 & 38Here you can see my attempts at beginning to shape up the bow section. I am using a couple of flat files to shape this are. Picture 38 is were I am leaving things for today. Its around 98% finished but I will leave the remining shaping until I move onto the frame fairing stage. Well that’s my week off from work over and done with – so “Looking forward” to going back tomorrow. Probable not a lot of work will be done on this over the next week but I will endeavour to update my build again very soon. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Coming along very nicely Tony, can see the amount of care and attention you're applying to the build... Very well done, look forward to seeing your next update..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/03/2011 Posts: 1,053 Points: 3,165 Location: Glenvista JHB
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Hi Tony, Starting to take shape!!! Looking Good. Kind regards, Garth "Measure twice, cut once!!!" Finished!!! HMS Victory, Current build: Black Pearl. On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1. Wish list: USS Constitution.
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Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,227 Points: 6,801 Location: UK
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Tony, can't see all of your pictures but it looks like your having a lot of fun with this build as some parts are difficult to build I am looking forward to your next post and seeing how it has worked out for you. Regards Trev Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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THE MAYFLOWER – 19th APRIL 2020 Since my last update I have been spending time “slowly” fairing the frames ready to start the planking. “Slowly” because you really only get one chance at getting this right. Too heavy handed on the filing you can remove too much wood and while you might be able to recover from that, its best to try and not get to that situation. I have found the best tools for frame fairing are a couple of files from my Perma Grit set – a Large flat file and a hollow tube file which allows you to get into some of the tighter areas much easier. Its not an easy task but I am more than happy with the results achieved on this kit. DECK SUPPORT BEAMS PICTURE 1The kit provides 5 ready cut deck support beams. These have the deck camber already made. These parts are totally useless. As you can see from this picture when lined up the camber is totally uneven. PICTURES 2 & 3So, taking the only decent one I checked the size of each end to ensure they were even and decided to produce my own. PICTURES 4 & 5I had a sheet of ply in the correct thickness to the kit parts so traced around the one decent part 5 times with a view to cutting my own. PICTURES 6 & 7One of the “luxury” tools I purchased a while ago is this Dremel fret saw. Its something I hardly ever use (hence the “luxury” description) but when it is needed for these sorts of repetitive tasks its ideal. I have not had a great deal of practice using this but the end result was 5 nicely symmetrical deck support beams. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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TRANSOM STERN FLOOR PICTURE 8This is from the instruction guide and shows that 2 x parts 57 are required to act as the Transom Stern Floor. PICTURES 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13Looking for the conversion to part 57 in the printed parts list (pic 9 & 10) we are told this part is cut from PART 51. So, we then look to see what PART 51 is (pic 11 & 12) and we see that is formed from a 2x9x600 strip of Bokapy. PIC 13 shows that piece of strip wood and while the picture is not very good, I think you can see the quality of the wood is very poor and it’s the main reason I am changing out 90% of the kit supplied wood on my build. Anyhow for this situation that piece of wood is acceptable as it will be planked over at a later stage. PICTURES 14 & 14AI felt that just trying to glue the Transom Floor in place without further bracing might create a weak joint so on that basis I glued in a couple of support blocks. These could have all be shaped to the correct angles but to be honest they will not be seen and they work just fine as they are. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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GUN BARREL SUPPORT BEAMS PICTURES 15, 16 & 17The kit provides gun barrel support beams should the builder decide to have the gun ports portrayed in the open position. At this stage I am not planning to do so on my build but who knows if that may change as the build progresses. The supplied pieces of ply are on the short side so again I have taken a couple of ply strips from the sheet I have and made my own. These are then painted black. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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INSTALLING THE DECK SUPPORT BEAMS PICTURES 18, 19 & 20A lot of care needed in the installation of these parts to ensure the height to the top of the frame is maintained port and starboard. As you can see from these pictures the support beams stick out a good way more port/starboard than is required. These will be trimmed once the false decks are installed. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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FOREMAST SUPPORT BLOCK CORRECTION PICTURES 21, 22, 23 & 24The instructions would have you glue parts 20 so they sit against the 2nd frame (pic 21). I never picked up on the fact the mast and bowsprit holes have to be drilled out and having these support blocks in the position they are will make drill the bowsprit hole that little more difficult as you would be drilling into the 4mm keel with an 8mm drill bit. Easiest fix here is to take some spare plank offcuts and glue these between frame 1 and the support blocks. As can be seen in Pic 24 you then have a solid “block” into which to drill the bowsprit hole. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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INSTALLING THE FALSE DECKS PICTURES 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 & 30Pic 25 – first stage is to ensure all of the frame surfaces are even before applying the false decks. The false decks are then glued and pinned into place ensuring they are evenly spaced port/starboard. Pic 26 shows how I have put a centre line on the frames and deck so that the whole assembly is evenly installed. Once these decks have dried, we can see (Pic 27) that they do not follow the line of the hull so these need to be filed back (carefully) so they follow the shape of the rib frames. birdaj2 attached the following image(s): Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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