Issue 72 - Contains wood strips, chainwales, blocks, deadeyes, thread, studdingsail boom irons, chainwale support brackets, eyebolts, brass wire, shroud chain links & pins; and has instructions for making and finishing the main and fore top mast yards.

Making the main and fore topmast yards - The assembly of both is identical, but note that their sizes are different - Ensure you use the right plan for each yard.

The majority of parts for the main top mast yard were supplied with issue 65, but you will also need the boom irons supplied issue 70. The parts for the fore top mast yard were supplied with issue 71.

Double check that you are using the right plans and dowel, and start with the main topmast yard.
Mark the centre section of the 270mm length of 5mm dowel, making sure that the excess length overhangs each end evenly, then as before use the centre finder to mark the lines on the octagonal centre section.

Taper the yard to the plan measurements and then shape the centre section to an octagonal shape with its faces being 3mm wide.
Cut four lengths of 2x3mm strip to fit the centre section (66mm long), chamfer the edges as you have done previously then glue the four strips in place.

Then cut eight 7mm lengths from the 2x3mm strip, chamfer each piece so that it fits between the gaps left between the four longer lengths, then chamfer the ends at both ends of the octagonal centre section.

Fit the two yard slings in the position indicated on the plan, the drill two 1mm holes in the ends of the yard.

Taper the two studdingsail booms and cut them to lengths as shown bottom right on the yard plans.

Check that the booms & quarter irons fit the yard & booms in the positions shown on the plans.

If you have chosen a stained finish, stain the yard & booms to match the other yards, if you have opted for a painted finish, paint the yard black BEFORE attaching the wire footrope supports, rigging & blocks.

Make up the blocks and the yard as shown on the plans and add in your chosen mast guise - Bare spares or Sails.

Repeat the build process for the fore topmast yard using the correct plan/dowel.

That's it for this week, carefully store the yards and remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 73 - Contains thread, brass wire, netting,brass stanchions and a 12-pounder gun kit; and has instructions for constructing and finishing the topgallant yards.

Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, fitting of the side ladders, fitting the wriggles and fitting the fenders.

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the hull yellow & black banding, preparing the chainwales, fitting the deadeyes.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.

Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, fitting of the side ladders, fitting the wriggles and fitting the fenders.

Note - In issue 75 we will be painting the yellow & black stripes of the hull, because the stripes don't follow the lines of the wales, and go straight across the steps, fenders and wriggles, these parts have to be glued in place first, the only exception to this is the entry port canopies, where you will need to paint around the bottom of the supports.

With most of the heavy work on the hull completed, we now start to add smaller details; The instructions only show one side of the model, so repeat the construction process on the opposite side of the hull which is a mirror image.

If you opted for the painted version, ignore the steps that involve Staining.

A lot to complete, so let's get started.....

Opening the gun deck cutaway - If you opted for the gun deck cutaway, you will need to remove the redundant central pieces of frame before you start adding further items on the hull.

Adding the channel moulding - You will need the 1x3mm strips supplied with issue 72.
The channel moulding runs down each side of the hull above the upper moulding you fitted at issue 43. If you are staining your model take five of the 1x3mm strips and stain the edges the same colour used for the wales, if painting your model, leave the wood bare.

Glue and pin a run of strips 3mm above the highest wale already fitted, the gap can be reduced to 2mm if your wales are fitted higher than in the magazine photos, (use an offcut to gauge the gap).
The moulding should fall in the middle of the gap between the upperwale and bulwark cap, make sure that the trip does not overhang the edge of the second-to-last gun port at the stern, but it can overlap the last port - you may need to reduce the gap between the channel moulding and the upper strake to achieve this. Either pull out of cut off the pins when the glue is dry.

Fitting the entry port canopies - The canopy of the real victory is roofed with lead, a detail point that can be added with matt grey paint, or with a small sheet of lead foil obtained from a specialist model shop or salvaged from the foil cap of some wine bottles, (I used 0.025mm thick foil).

Hold the side supports and roof in place on the hull, you may need to file the tops of the support to match the angle of the roof.
Whether you are building the natural or painted version, paint the parts black and highlight the lines and detail with gold paint.
Attach the supports to the hull using superglue, they need to be 12mm apart, so align the inner edges with the outside of the strips of wood that line the entry ports, then glue the canopy on top.

Fitting the side ladders - The side ladders are made from 1.5x3mm & 2x2mm strip, you should read over step 1 a number of times to be sure of the positiong of the masking tape, this will act as a guide for ladder placement.
Using 1.5x3mm strip, cut and fit the wide part of the steps as shown in the magazine, noting that the step above the lower gun port is shorter to avoid the cut out for the wriggle. Chamfer the inside edge of the strips to keep the steps level.
Then cut pieces of 2x2mm strip the same length as the steps already fitted, chamfer the ends and then glue a strip beneath each step - note that some strips will need to be trimmed to fit between the wales or mouldings etc.

Fitting the wriggles - You will need the arched ^ wriggles supplied with issues 64 & 70, the wriggles should be primed - Paint the wriggles black if you opted for the natural/stained build - (For the painted version, in issue 75 the majority of these wriggles are over-painted yellow ochre with the odd exception of where a wriggle encroach's into the black striping).
Superglue these wriggles into place as shown in the diagrams, 13 wriggles are located on each side of the hull. If you opted for the gun deck cutaway, you will not be able to place the three wriggles located in the gun deck cutaway area.

Fitting the fenders - The Fenders are made from 2x2mm strip and are curved lengths of strip that run up alongside the hull ladders, and a single 2x3mm fender just over halfway towards the bow.

Use a strip of wood to mark two vertical lines for the fenders near the ladders. Put them 9mm apart, centrally between the top and middle gun ports. Then cut lengths of 2x2mm strip to fit between the wales and mouldings, not forgetting to leave a gap for the lower gun port wriggle (supplied later on). Stain the sides of these strips before placement, but if you are painting your hull, leave the wood bare.

Bend two lengths of 2x2mm strip to match the curve of the hull and extend approx 2.5mm above the bulwark cap strip.

Sand a radius at the bottom ends of the strips, then stain and glue these in place (leave bare if painting), then fit the two short top strips of 2x2mm wood on top of the bulwark cap.
Sand the tops of the vertical strips flush and sand a radius on the inboard & outboard ends - Stain or leave bare if painting.

That's it for this week!

Carefully store any remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the yellow & black banding of the hull, preparing the chainwales, and fitting the deadeyes to the chainwales.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.

Issue 77 - Contains the mizzen mast plan, assorted wood strips, mizzen mast top parts, blocks, thread brass wire & eyebolts; and has instructions for assembling the mizzen mast top, assembling the skylight and fitting the first knees.

Issue 78 - Contains mizzen bibbs, pinrail, driver boom saddle, blocks, threads, net, brass wire, brass stanchions and belaying pins; and has instructions for the assembly & finishing of the mizzen lower mast, and constructing & finishing of the the flag lockers.

Current Hms Victory deadeye photos