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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/02/2014 Posts: 182 Points: 532 Location: Big T
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Texas, of course. I've lived in eleven states and two foreign countries, but Texas the longest, so I consider myself a naturalized Texan.
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Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Mark, Wyatt and all, Wyatt, Texas is a big country. I have been problems posting pics. All done is exactly the same as done in the beginning. We shall try again now. The Filth Wash came in today and supposedly more local venues will reopen this weekend. Memorial Day holiday is a BIG motorcycle day around here and the Barber Museum is a magnet.I will wait till Tuesday to visit, if open. My main focus on doing this fuss is over the color of the castings: engine and transmission. The kit is just TOO silver and I know cast iron could be polished but we will see. It's my 1000 dollar question so I may as well check it out.  Today I decided to look at the Pack 10, Part 53 problem. Thanks to both of you I had an idea of what to look for. After opening the magic envelope to survey the parts, the post in question fell off the transmission. So now we will call it a spacer. It was glued to the case as you can see and the glue residue partially blocked the hole for the pin. Cleaned it out. My part did not have the spring post protruding but it was not screwed in. Just enough space for the pin, Yes? NO! This thing was not threaded correctly. The pin stripped. Also that pin is too long by a 1/16" ( 2or 3mm) for it to seat correctly and still allow the linkage to flop a bit. My remedy was simple. I used a Dremel tool with a grinding stone to remove the threads from the pin and then filed the pin down so the the pin's shoulder seated correctly. All in all I made a post which fit and used a drop of Gorilla Glue to secure. I would humbly state that this is a big problem with this kit and without help from the forum, it would have been worse than it turned out. On the other hand, aren't problems with expensive toys make our hobby as fun as it is? I am back in "Hog" heaven! Tom tnequette attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/02/2014 Posts: 182 Points: 532 Location: Big T
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Glad you worked that problem out Tom. I did not think to shorten the shaft. It's too late for me so I'm still waiting for spare parts.
Hope your able to get to the Museum. It would be great to see some pictures taken by a model builder who knows what he's doing.
Stay safe.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Wyatt, My photos are not opening, don't know why. If you are interested in the pics for the Gear Pedal, PM me with your smart phone number and I will text them to you. Tom
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Hi Tom, to get your pics to show on the forum you must ensure you save your pic as a JPG and not a JPEG, that is save and not simply rename. Your pics should be around 650x480 pixels which will give you a file size of around 150kb. Also, avoid using an apple device for uploading pics. File sharing sites are also not recommended. You may find this topic helpful.... https://forum.model-spac....aspx?g=posts&t=244
Hope this helps.. Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Am stuck with the Apple. But the Save vs Save As and jpg vs jpeg will be helpful. Wii try again tomorrow. Thanks 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Ended up with a little time for modeling. Here is my Tappet fix. tnequette attached the following image(s):
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That is a great job Tom.   If only I had noticed.  Mark
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Nicely done Tom and thanks for the images posting info using a MAC. Have moved your post as requested.....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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I am jumping way ahead of my diary but today was too much fun not to post right away. Tom tnequette attached the following image(s):
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That looks excellent Tom. Progressing very nicely. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Thanks Mark. Just too soon to dirty it all up! 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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The engine: The museum here is still closed and I decided to move after visiting the local H-D dealer. I wanted to replicate a cast iron color and was convinced that Testor's Model Master "Steel" was best. Luckily I had a old bottle in perfect shape. Testors, I discovered after visiting two hobby shops, was now out of business and we could not find an alternative. The air brush had to be cleaned off and recalled to duty. All was good. Once you decide to actually model something versus assembling the parts given, you enter into a different world. Now you can attempt to repair defects and improve fit and finish. The metal parts in the ER are really good but the plastic has problems. You have open seams, sprue cut off marks, ejector pin marks, etc. These actually surprised me for a model of this cost but this also the fun.  The most interesting guffaw found was the ignition switch assembly. The switch body has a slot for the neat little key, which sorta fit. It also had a neat little chromed weather cover. BUT the cover also has a slot cut in it for the key! . So, fix the cover and use Rub n Buff. Funny when you think of it. The instructions covered the actual assembly well. No problems except for those I brought on myself.  The pictures show the crankcase, a chrome filler cap (there goes the chrome), the transmission case, ignition key and some fixes after priming. One shot shows a painted piston cylinder with the original silver painted carburetor lying in a piece of cleaned cast iron. Am very pleased with the outcome. It will be weathered for oil, etc, tnequette attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/02/2014 Posts: 182 Points: 532 Location: Big T
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That is really impressive Tom. You've done a fantastic job on it and I do like the cast iron look. As Siskel & Ebert would say, "Two thumbs up!"
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Excellent work on that engine Tom, you’ve got that spot on. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Last engine shot, all filthied up and ready to move on. If there any more "Watch Out"s out there, now is the time. Isn't there a hassle with the linkage springs? Thanks Wyatt and mark for all your help. Tom tnequette attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Superelite    Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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That engine looks mighty sweet 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Thanks for all the kind comments. This dialog makes modeling fun. Tom
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Rank: Super-Elite    Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,508 Points: 13,684 Location: ipswich
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Very impressive looking so far. The finish on the engine looks amazing - utterly real.
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Very impressive, looks like the real thing. Mark
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US
