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HI there I know this post is a few years old but I also have the same issue that Sinbad had with the planking of the stern, I feel that something is not right, so I included two photos one is close up if any one can spot the problem if there is one I would appreciate it if someone can explain to me what to do or how to fix to help in any way I measured the distance from the bend of plank #5 on the left to the end of the false keel to be 40mm, so # 5 plank on the right should come out to be the same right, PS if I have to remove a plank or two to fix the problem I will, also this question is for Alan in general should there be 9 planks that go across the stern when they reach the false keel. thank you Ronald ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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up date on stern planking issue as you can see from photo 3 layers of planking removed from stern for both sides will start over with plank #2 along with paper shims on bulk heads 27,28.29 and 30 Ronald ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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Hi Ronald, I reached the keel on my 8th row of planking....
Regards
Alan
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ok thanks Alan and thank you for moving my post to a separate Ronald
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hello there may I ask why no one wants to help me with the issue of planking the stern area I had ask for help 5 days ago Alan was nice enough to help a little by telling me he used only 8 planks to reach the false keel, anyway first I showed photos of the problem I am having because everyone wants to see photos in order to help but no one responded, so I removed the planks and cardboard shims in order to start over still no responds, so I started over and trying again to planking on both sides as you can see from the new photos I just can't seem to get the stern planks to look like the one in the instructions or in Alans build video, I would hate to have to remove them again I don't want to run out of planks till I get it right, so I would appreciate someone honoring me with a helpful suggestion or something this time, I can do it I just need direction. P.S. one question how to select the right plank for bending a few have been cracking when I try to bend them and they have been wet as well thank you Ronald ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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Hi Ronald, I have only fully planked one model and that was the SOTS. There is a glaring difference between how different ships are planked. With the SOTS the planks were not shaped around the stern. They went to the stern rib, butting up to the stern planks that were flat across the stern. You also have to take into account that lots of people build these ships and are confident doing that, but when asked to assist in somebody else`s problem they don`t have the confidence to give a reliable answer. Hence do not reply. Now that said I`m going to offer some advice that Alan may rebuke later. He is a much better ship builder than I will ever be, how ever long I live. Having looked at your pics, it seems you have had some issues with the fairing of the ribs toward the stern of your build. Hence the need for the added packing. For my first ship build of the SOTS and as a total novice I used lots of balsa infills between the ribs to guide me where the fairing needed to stop to give the best shape. Even then there was lots of lovely sanding to do when the planking was complete. I have attached two pics. 1: Shows the difference in stern planking. 2: Shows the balsa infills that went almost up to the stern end ribs to give me the best shape. Hope this gives you some ideas. I don`t give any assurance of a cure for your problem, but that`s the best I can offer. Check back to see if Alan agrees or disagrees. Take his advice over mine any day. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) delboy271155 attached the following image(s): COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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thanks Derek you are soo right in a lot of areas 1) Alan is super good at building ships most definitely better then both of Us will ever be 2) I do think I messed up in the fairing area especially near bulk head # 30 that is why you see filler but sadly I'm unable to view your photos I had the same issue with my photos showing up in the post but will try again to see if they show up, and I to feel the same about Alans advise but at least you was kind enough to reply to me and help me a little and I thank you Ronald
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HI Derek well the first photo showed up but the second photo is missing Ronald
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ronald305 wrote: HI Derek well the first photo showed up but the second photo is missing Ronald Hi Ronald, If you click on the page refresh button, maybe a few times it should show. Not a problem at your end, a forum issue. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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ok thanks Derek they both finally showed up, question about the second photo is that a piece of balsa block used as fillers they look like Styrofoam Ronald
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ronald305 wrote: ok thanks Derek they both finally showed up, question about the second photo is that a piece of balsa block used as fillers they look like Styrofoam Ronald Hi Ronald, Understand what you are saying. Balsa comes in a variety of density`s. I was lucky enough that at the time I started the SOTS, my wife knew a college lecturer who built RC planes and had loads of scrap Balsa that he donated to my building cause of the SOTS. The denser the balsa the darker the colour, but I can assure you its balsa. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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LOL ok thanks I never doubted you that it wasn't Ronald
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Hi Derek I was thinking about the last rib # 30 to be exact and I may have faired it to much but since your SOTS is designed different your last rib will be different then my Victory, I was going to ask you or anyone especially Alan who is hopefully following this post would you know if there is a particular measurement from rib 29 to 30 height wise I can use to correct the faring for rib 30 in order to fix the stern planking problem if I'm not mistaken in some of the photos in the the instructions booklet the last rib does look a higher almost close to rib 29, If that is true I can add filler to get the faring right the first plank under the floor looks ok it's the remainder that is messing up so anyway if anyone has any recommendations or suggestion I will be most grateful thank you Ronald
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Hi Ronald, think we'll have to deal with this in stages but would first say the reason your planks are cracking or breaking when bending is probably because the plank may be wet but in all honesty the planks need to be soaked. Second reason is probably because you are trying to bend the plank at the end of the plank to get it around the sharp curve. Soak your plank, then bend the plank around 3 inches from the end of the plank rather than at the end, cutting off the excess later.
The planks you laid are coming around the stern too shallow and as a result there is no way you will get 8 or 9 rows laid before hitting the keel. It looks to me as if the first plank you laid going around the stern has simply been bent around the stern whereas the instructions do show that you need to add a slight twist and the edge of the plank needs to have a heavy chamfer. The twist helps to cover the filler on that corner but also means the end of the plank will steeper.
You really only have two choices, the first is to continue as you are and accept the fact you won't get 8 or 9 rows before hitting the keel. As long as both side are symmetrical then it shouldn't look to bad. It may mean a lot of filling later in the build but if your are painting the hull then it should all be covered up.
The second choice is to strip it all back, get the fairing of the stern sorted then fit the first plank around the stern following the instructions to bend and apply the twist. This first plank is probably the hardest part of the build to get right and many modellers have found this to be problematic but with a little patience I'm sure you get it right.
We will also see if we can source you some additional planking strips, will get back to you on this one.
Regards
Alan
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Hi Alan thanks for coming to the rescue and willing to help me with the stern planking I have removed the planks again except the first planking which I will not remove because from my view of it, it's the only planks that came out right or very to close right anyway but if I really have to remove the first one as well I will I thought I got the twist in the plank right but I will follow your instructions for the rest of the issues also is it ok to print a copy of the post you sent me because it a lot to read and to go over again thank you for your guidance Ronald
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Ronald, if you wish to print the post the be my guest....
Regards
Alan
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Hi Alan before I attempt to re-plank the stern properly this time may I ask how do I go about sorting out the fairing which I believe I have faired it to much especially I notice I put to much turn in the false feel as you will notice in the photos by the way please forgive the mess I made when I removed the planks the third time around it's not pretty I will clean it up once I figure out how to fix the fairing on the stern thank you Ronald ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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Hi Ronald,
First, I’d like to echo what Alan has said. Don’t get too hung up on the number of rows. As long as it gets the job done, and after filling looks good, don’t sweat the details.
I’d like to add a technique to your repertoire; steam bending. All you need is your wife’s best clothes iron, and a bit of paper towel. (I’m joking about the iron. One from the local Salvation Army store does the job, and keeps you off the couch)
As Alan mentioned, soak the planks. I start with boiling water, then let ‘em soak overnight. Break out the ironing board, the iron, and paper towels. Pull a plank out, and fold the paper towel over the top of it. You should have 5-6 layers of towel above and below the plank. With the iron on HIGH heat, put it on the stack of towels. Use a bit of pressure, and draw the iron towards the end of the plank where the bend is. As you move the iron, lift the end of the plank up. You’ll find you can get some amazingly sharp bends with steam. Get the bend where you want it, then let it dry overnight. The next day, glue it down. As Alan mentioned, do this 2-3” from the end you plan on using. You’ll be able to get the end of the plank snug up against the counter. You’ll obviously want to practice a bit on some scrap, but you’ll get the feel of it pretty quickly.
I’ve been steambending for 31 years on wooden canoes. I build and restore them. I can literally tie a knot in a piece of properly steamed wood. The full-size practice translates very well into ship models. (I also use the iron and wet towel trick on 3/8” x 2” material)
Lastly, shoot me a PM with your subscription details. I’ll explain why in PM.
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thanks Mark for the advise on using steam and paper towels ETC. but I have a planking iron and a short thin soldering iron for tight bends it works just fine except for the fact I was bending them to close to the end, LOL I do not have a wife Sir I am single, also unless I missed it some where I do not recall Alan mentioning getting hung up on the # of rows for give me for asking but what rows, are you referring to the planks that go all the way to the false, anyway I will try and do my best to understand the boiling of water & the paper towel part, I will have to print this post so I can read it again and again so much to comprehend, one more ( also ) LOL. I will PM you so you can explain about my subscription detail for which I do not understand Ronald
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Hi Alan could you explain to me what you mean by the planks are coming around the stern to shallow, and should I remove the first planks, because I was hoping it could be saved but if the stern needs to be built up and faired correctly which mean starting where the first plank goes al the way to where the curve was sanded in to the false keel, which bring me to my next important question how do I go about faring the last bulkhead/stern or transom correctly assuming that I did faired the stern to much. PS disregard the messy build up on the stern I removed it all and will try to build it up better once I hear back from you thank you Ronald ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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