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Pack 12 Stages 110 to 120
Stage 110 Contents: Etch Parts Fret and Davits
Drill two sets of 1.5mm holes to fit the davits on the starboard side of the hull, the first 39mm aft of the davit fitted in stage 109 and the second 57mm aft of that. Paint the davits with metal primer and when dry paint them white. Glue the two davits into place in the holes you have just drilled.
Cut four 40mm lengths of 1mm brass wire and bend them to make up 2 sets of brackets, as you have done previously. Test-ft the brackets under the davits, creating holes in the bulwark for the ends. Glue the two brackets into position.
Separate two of the wheels from the etch fret supplied with stage 100 and remove any burrs. Drill two holes in the raised section inside the bulwark, in line with the davits just fitted. Insert nails through the centres of the wheels and test-fit them into the holes. Shorten the nails so that they extend 3mm out of the wall, then glue the parts into place.
Take the etch parts fret supplied with this stage and apply a coat of metal primer to both sides, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret. Glue the porthole covers into the portholes along the port side with the white sides facing in.
Retrieve the four vents supplied with stages 13, 17, 50 and 51. Apply a coat of metal primer to them and when dry paint the inside of the vents red and the body pale yellow. Paint the bottom 15mm of the larger vents and the bottom 5mm of the smaller vents black. Drill holes in the deck at the positions shown in step 13 of the instructions for the vents. Test-fit the vents into the holes then glue into place.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 111 Contents: Pin Rails and Davits
Take the two pin rails and paint them with metal primer, then paint them black. Retrieve the mast details supplies with stage 43 and glue them to the side of the two pin rails.
Retrieve the hatches from stage 67. Now prepare four 8mm lengths of 1x3mm wooded strip and paint them to match the hatch roofs. Glue two pieces to the inside of the opening of the hatches. Then cut twelve 2mm lengths of 1mm brass wire and glue them to the join of the doors of the hatches to create the hinges.
Remove two of the ladders from the etch parts fret supplied with stage 52 and remove any burrs. Glue them into the two openings in the deck immediately in front of the two vents. Glue the two hatches over the openings with the ladders. Now insert the mainmast into the corresponding hole in the deck, don’t glue it in position. Glue one of the pin rails to the deck, 3mm forward of the main mast. Glue the second pin rail 3mm forward of the foremast.
Wrap 1.5mm brass wire around one of the funnels twice. Cut through the wire to create two rings, then test-fit the rings around the funnels. Mark three lines around both funnels, 6mm and 19mm from the top edge and 10mm from the bottom edge. Using either 0.5mm brass wire or 0.5mm thread, make two more rings to fit around the funnels at the 19 and 10mm marks you made. If using thread, glue one end of the thread onto the line, then turn the funnel, gluing the thread to the lines as you turn. I chose to use thread. Glue the 1.5mm brass ring onto the funnel at the 6mm lines. If there are gaps in the wire rings, till them with putty. Paint the wire with metal primer.
Paint both the funnels pale yellow, to match the vents. When the paint has dried, apply masking tape around the inner lines, then paint the ends of the funnels black. After the paint has dried, remove the tape. Glue the two funnels to the centre of the boiler rooms.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 112 Contents: Thread, Etch Parts Fret, Cannon and Cannon Mount
Take the etch parts fret and paint with metal primer, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret then glue them into the portholes along the starboard side, with the white sides facing in.
Remove one of the shoulder pads from the parts fret from stage 53. Assemble and paint the cannon received in this stage then glue the shoulder pad to it.
Retrieve the etch parts frets supplied with stages 103 and 107. Separate the curved stairs from the frets and remove any burrs. Bend the curved section so that they will fit from the main deck to the deck of the aft superstructure. Bend the three stanchions so that they are vertical. Paint both stairs with metal primer, then apply a coat of brown paint to the stairs, leaving the stanchions unpainted. Glue the stairs to the sides of the aft superstructure. Now prepare two lengths of 0.5mm thread or brass wire to fit between the stanchions and glue them into place. Paint the rails brass.
Drill seven 0.75mm holes along the gunwales, either side of the mizzenmast, 6mm apart, starting in line with the forward edge of the mizzen mast. Test-fit an eyebolt into each of the holes and cut the shanks so that only the eyes are visible. Glue the eyebolts into place.
Cut lengths of 0.5mm thread. The lengths should be long enough so that they can be tied around the mast and eyebolts in the gunwales. Tie a length around the mast, above the blocks and fix with a little glue. Now tie the free ens of the lengths to the first eyebolt (from the bow). The line should be taut without pulling the mast. Fix the knot with some glue and cut off the excess. Tie off the other side in the same way. Continue the same process to add another three shrouds either side. Leave the last three eyebolts on each side free.
Glue six assembled cannons to the points on the deck shown in step 12 of the instructions.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 113 Contents: Steam Pipe, Etch Parts Fret and Davits
Take the etch parts fret and paint with metal primer, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret then glue them into the portholes along the portside, with the white sides facing in.
Paint the steam pipe with metal primer. When dry, paint the pipe white and the end brass, then glue the pipe to the front of one of the funnels. Drill three 0.75mm holes in the sides of the funnels, underneath the black section, starting from the centre, then 13mm forward and 13mm aft. Glue an eyebolt into each of the holes just made.
Take the boiler room without the steam pipe and glue it over the opening in the deck, forward of the aft superstructure. Test-fit the central superstructure over the next opening in the deck, do not glue it. Glue the other boiler room over the opening in the deck in front of the central superstructure. When the glue has dried, remove the central superstructure.
Drill three 0.75mm holes in the raised section at either side of the deck, as shown in step 9 of the instructions. The centre holes should be aligned with the middle eyebolts on the funnel. Glue eyebolts into the holes just made on the raised section. Tie lines of 0.5mm thread between the eyebolts on the funnel and those in the raised sections at the sides of the deck. Make sure the lines are taut before securing the knots with glue. Repeat the process for the aft funnel.
Retrieve the anchor you prepared in stage 58 and glue it onto the bow deck.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 114 Contents: Thread, Cannon Mounts, Cannons and Davit.
Prepare and paint the cannons in the same way as you did for the others.
Cut two lengths from the 3mm dowel supplied with stage 106, one 100mm and one 95mm long. Taper the lengths until one end of each is 1,5mm in diameter. Paint the dowels with a clear varnish. Drill a 1mm hole in the 3mm ends of the dowels, 5mm deep. Take two eyebolts and cut their shanks to a length of 4mm, then glue them into the holes in the dowels. Cut the shanks of another two eyebolts to 2mm long and loop these shortened eyebolts to those in the ends of the dowels.
Retrieve the foremast and main mast. Drill 1mm hole, 2mm deep, 5mm below the white strips on the foremast and 10mm below the white strips on the main mast. Glue the ends of the 2mm eyebolts into the holes just made in the masts, the 100mm length to the main mast and the 95mm length to the foremast. Wrap 1.5mm brass wire around the bottom end of the main mast. Cut the wire to create a ring.
Glue the remaining two 47mm cannons onto the deck, in the positions shown in step 7 of the instructions. Glue the main mast into place, the slide the brass ring down the mast and glue it to the deck.
Take the forward superstructure and place it into position on the deck. Mark where the structure intersects the gold planks along the edge of the deck. Remove the sections of gold planks you have just marked out and glue the forward superstructure into position.
Retrieve the three skylights assembled in stages 57 and 58. Cut a strip from the clear plastic sheet to fit inside the skylight from stage 58 then glue the strip into place. Glue the two skylights from stage 57 into place at either side of the superstructure, then glue the remaining skylight against the front.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 115 Contents: Driver, Lifebuoys and Etch Parts Fret
Paint the etch parts fret with metal primer, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret and glue them into the portholes along the starboard side, with the white sides facing in.
Retrieve and prepare the two stairs supplied with stage 55. Apply metal primer to the stairs then paint them brown. Glue them into place between the forward superstructure and the main deck.
Drill two 0.5mm holes, 10mm forward and aft of the two davits, as shown in step 3 of the instructions. Pass a length of 0.5mm thread through the upper holes of the davits, then glue one end into the aft hole just drilled. Pull the thread taut and glue the other end into the forward hole. Repeat the process on the two remaining pairs of starboard davits then repeat the process with the three port pairs of davits.
Take the lifebuoys and paint them with metal primer. Then, paint them white and finally apply a grey cross to them. Glue two lifebuoys to the rails on either side of the upper deck of the forward superstructure. Then, glue one lifebuoy to the aft rails on either side of the lower deck. Fix two more lifebuoys to the forward rail of the lower deck of the aft superstructure. Now glue the remaining two lifebuoys to the bow deck rail.
Drill seven 0.75mm holes in the gunwales from the main mast going aft, 8mm from each other. Test-fit seven eyebolts into the holes. Cut the shanks until the eyes are flush with the gunwale, then glue them into place. Repeat on the other side.
Using 0.5mm thread, create 5 shrouds on either side in the same way as you did for the mizzen mast. Leave the last 2 aft most eyebolts free.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 116 Contents: Main Sail and Blocks
Retrieve the 3mm dowel supplied with stage 106 and cut a 175mm length from it. Taper the dowel from the centre out to each end, down to a diameter of 1.5mm. Note: the instructions say to taper one end and is wrong. Paint the dowel with a clear varnish. Take two eyebolts and connect them together. Cut the shank of one of the eyebolts to a length of 2mm. Drill a 0.75mm hole, 2mm deep in the centre of the dowel then glue the shortened eyebolt into the hole.
Tale the foremast and drill a 0.75mm hole at the front of the mast, 2mm deep and 10mm above the white blocks fitted to the mast. Cut the shank of the free eyebolt to a length of 2mm then glue then eyebolt into the hole in the mast.
Create a ring of 1.5mm brass around the foremast, move the ring up the mast then insert the bottom of the mast into the corresponding hole in the deck and glue in place. Slide the brass ring down the mast and glue into place on the deck.
Now drill seven 0.75mm holes in the gunwales on either side of the foremast. The aft holes should be in line with the front edges of the sides of the forward superstructure. The next two holes should be 3mm apart and the next four 7mm apart. Glue shortened eyebolts into the holes. Cut lengths of 0.5mm thread and create 5 shrouds on either side in the same way as you did for the other masts. Leave the aft two eyebolts in either gunwale free.
Tie two blocks with a length of 0.15mm thread, the line between the blocks should be 20mm. Tie two more blocks with 0.15mm thread to eyebolts. Secure all the knots with a little glue. Drill two 0.75mm holes in the deck 13mm from the aft deck, as shown in step 9 of the instructions. Glue the eyebolts connected to the blocks into the holes just made. Tie the other two blocks to the mizzen boom in line with the two blocks just fitted to the deck.
Cut the four remaining ladders from the etch parts fret supplied with stage 51 and glue them into the opening in the deck, as shown in step 11 of the instructions.
Retrieve the hatches from stages 65 and 66. Prepare and attach doors and hinges in the same way as you did for the other hatches. Glue three of the larger and the smaller hatches to the deck over the openings where the ladders were just fitted, the smaller hatch should be fitted nearest the bow. Now fit two of the assemblies from stage 92 on either side of the smaller hatch.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 117 Contents: Foresail, Pins and Etch Parts Fret
Paint the etch parts fret with metal primer, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret and glue them into the remaining portholes along the starboard side, with the white sides facing in.
Retrieve the anchor prepared in stage 8 and glue it to the rear of the foremast, then tie it to the mast using 0.5mm thread. Paint the eight pins supplied with this stage brass then glue them into the holes in the fore and main mast pin rails.
Glue a length of 0.5mm thread across the mizzenmast shrouds, 10mm up from the gunwale. Then glue lengths of 0.15mm thread across the shrouds 4mm apart from each other. When all the ratlines are fixed in place, cut away the excess thread from the sides of the shrouds. Repeat this process on the other side of the mast. Now fix ratlines to the shrouds on either side of the foremast and main mast, in the same way as you did for the mizzenmast.
To attach the rigging refer to the instructions to identify the line numbers used within this instruction. Using 0.5mm thread rig the mizzenmast by first tying lines 1, 2 and 3 to the mast, 5, 20 and 35mm from the top. The lines need to reach past the gunwales on either side. Tie line 4 around the mast just above the white blocks. Tie line 5 around the mast just under line 2, passing it forward and tying it off to the main mast, 5mm above the hole. Now tie the ends of line 1 to the aft mizzen eyebolts, lines 2 and 3 to the next eyebolts forward. Pull the lines taut and fix with glue.
Drill a 0.75mm hole in the deck between the two large vents, then glue an eyebolt into the hole. When the glue has dried, tie the end of line 4 to it. Tie lines 6, 7 and 8 to the main mast using the same distances as that for the mizzenmast. Pass the ends of the lines down past the main mast eyebolts on both sides. Tie line 9 around the mast just above the white blocks, leading the ends forward to the sides of the forward boiler room. Tie line 10 to the main mast underneath line 7, tying off to the foremast 5mm above the hole.
Tie the free ends of lines 6, 7 and 8 to the three aft eyebolts on either side of the main mast. Pull the lines taut and secure with glue. Tie the ends of line 9 to the middle eyebolts at the sides of the forward boiler room. Pull the lines taut and secure with glue.
Tie lines 11, 12 and 13 to the foremast in the same positions as the other masts. Tie the ends of these lines off to the three aft eyebolts either side of the foremast. Drill two 0.75mm holes in the black square at the bow, then glue an eyebolt into each hole. Tie lines 14 and 15 to the foremast, just above the white blocks. Secure line 14 to the first eyebolt on the black square, then secure line 15 to the bowsprit, 10mm from the end. Tie line 16 to the foremast just below line 12, secure the other end to the bowsprit, 10mm from the end.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 118 Contents: Etch Parts Fret, Anchor Chain and Vents
Paint the etch parts fret with metal primer, then paint the embossed side matt white. When dry, separate the porthole covers from the fret and glue them into the remaining portholes along the port side, with the white sides facing in.
Take the two vents supplied with stages 34 and 53, plus one of the vents supplied with this stage. Paint them with metal primer, then paint the outside with pale yellow and the insides red. Drill three holes in the central superstructure then glue the vents into place as shown in step 2 of the instructions.
Retrieve the twelve 44mm davits and paint with metal primer. When dry, apply a coat of white paint to them. Drill two sets of 1mm holes on the port side of the hull, at the positions shown in step 3 of the instructions. Glue two davits into the holes then repeat on the starboard side. Now drill two holes in the gunwale, fore and aft of the davits. The forward hole should be positioned 7mm in front of the first eyebolt. Take a length of 0.15mm thread and glue one end into the forward hole. Pass the line up and around the forward davit, then aft and around the second davit. Fix the end of the line into the second hole in the gunwale. Take a length of 0.5mm thread and pass it through the holes halfway up the davits. Tie the line taut and fix with glue. Repeat on the other side.
Take two davits and shorten the bottom ends of them to 5mm so that when they are fitted the ends are flush with the twisted wire. Fit these two davits 7mm aft of the companionway opening in the bulwarks as shown in step 5 of the instructions. Take another two davits and fit them 40mm forward of the opening then repeat on the other side. Drill holes in the gunwales forward and aft of the davits, then attach rigging lines as you did before, repeat on the other side.
Retrieve the four small curved davits from stages 55 and 69. Paint with metal primer then paint white. Drill four holes in the deck at the bow, in the positions shown in step 7 of the instructions then glue the davits into the holes. Drill four holes, 20mm aft and 10mm forward of the aft davits. Cut two lengths of 0.15mm thread and glue one end of each into the forward holes, around the davits and then glue into the aft holes.
Retrieve the davits supplied with stage 60,65,78, 113 and 114, paint them with metal primer and when dry paint them white. Glue two of the davits to the starboard side as shown in step 8 of the instructions, then repeat on the port side. Fix another davit 20mm aft of the davit at the side of the forward boiler room. Glue another davit in the same position on the other side.
Paint the shrouds from the seventh ratline down and all the davit lines white. Paint the upper davit support brackets white. Now paint the davits below the gunwales, the lower davit support brackets and the outside of the porthole covers black.
Tie two blocks with 0.15mm thread so there is 30mm of thread between the two blocks. Tie these blocks around the foremast as shown in step 12 of the instructions. Cut two 650mm lengths of 0.15mm thread and tie these lines to the yard, 10mm in from each end. Pull the free ends through the holes in the blocks. Now cut two lengths of 0.14mm thread to fit from the ends of the yard forward to the bowsprit and tie them to the yard ends. Tie the free end of the lines to 10mm away from the tip of the bowsprit and secure the nots with glue. Tie the free ends from the block to the two inner pins of the foremast rail and secure the knots with glue.
Drill a 0.75mm hole in either side of the bow, in line with the lifebuoys. Glue an eyebolt into both holes. Tie a length of 0.5mm thread to the eyebolts and tie the other ends to the front of the bowsprit. Now retrieve the mesh sheet supplied with stage 50 and cut out a piece to match the shape of the bow, back to the eyebolts just fitted. Place the mesh between the bowsprit and figurehead and glue it to the lines just fitted. When the glue dries, cut off the excess mesh.
Make two 4mm rings with leftover 1mm brass wire. Cut the anchor chain in half. Open one of the rings and pass it through the end of one of the anchors and the anchor chain. Tie a line of 0.15mm thread around a block, then up through the forward davit. Pass the line down through the anchor ring, then back up and through the block, looping it around the bollard. Tie another line around the anchor at the bottom of the shank. Pass it up and through the aft davit, looping it around the base of the davit. Repeat this on the other side. Glue the ends of the anchor chain into the hawse holes. Take the ends of the anchor lines on both sides and coil them on the deck. Apply glue to the coils to secure them.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 119 Contents: Foremast Staysail and Vents
Sew a loop of 0.15mm thread into each of the corners of the driver sail supplied in stage 115, the loops need to fit over the mizzen boom and gaff. Secure the loops with glue then slide them onto the spars. Sew the head of the sail to the mizzen gaff, as shown in step 2 of the instructions. Tie a length of 0.15mm thread to the end of the gaff, then tie the other end 40mm along the gaff to create a loop. Tie a line to the loop and pass it through the hole in the mast to create the halyard.
Tie lines above the two blocks hanging from the mizzen boom. Pass the line through the blocks fitted to the deck, then back up and through the boom blocks. Tie the lines off to the deck blocks and fix the knots with glue. Tie another length of thread to the end of the boom (topping lift), then pass the line through the lower hole in the mizzenmast just above the white strips. Fit two eyebolts to the superstructure deck at the side of the mast, then take the topping lift line down and tie off to the inner eyebolt. Tie the halyard to the outer eyebolt. Now fit two eyebolts to the deck in front of the bollards. Tie a line around the end of the gaff and tie the ens off to the two eyebolts.
Retrieve the mainsail supplied with stage 116. Using 0.15mm thread, create a loop in the top corners of the sail then slide the sail onto the gaff. Sew the sail to the gaff as you did with the mizzen sail, then tie a line to the end of the gaff, tying the other end 40mm in to create a loop. Tie a line to this loop and pass it through the hole in the main mast. Tie this line and lines from the lower forward corner off to the pin rail in front of the mast. Tie clew lines to the bottom aft corner, passing the ends to the deck below. Tie another line to the end of the gaff, leading the lines to the main deck.
Drill four holes in the decks below the mainsail, two in the main deck and two in the superstructure deck. Glue an eyebolt into each. Tie the loose ends from the clew lines to the eyebolts on the superstructure deck, then tie the lines from the gaff to the eyebolts fitted on either side of the main deck.
Now fix the foresail to the foremast gaff in the say way as the other sails. Add the other lines to the corners of the sail and the gaff as well. Tie the ends of the lines coming forward to the foremast pin rail. Glue three eyebolts onto the main deck alongside the forward funnel, as shown in step 10 of the instructions. Then tie the lines going aft from the foresail and gaff to these eyebolts.
Retrieve the skylight assembled in stage 58 and the clear plastic. Cut a strip of clear plastic and glue it to the inside of the skylight. Now retrieve the vents supplied with stage 24, 46, 118 and 119. Paint them with metal primer, pale yellow, black and red, just as you did with the other vents. Glue the skylight over the opening in the deck forward of the hatch. Drill holes in the deck to house the six vents at the positions shown in step 13 of the instructions.
Using 0.15mm thread, tie the top corner of the foremast staysail to the foremast above the shrouds and the forward corner to the forward eyebolt in the black section at the front of the bow. Tie the lower aft corner to the aft shroud eyebolts on either side. Now glue the windlass from stage 72 to the deck, aft of the forwardmost vent.
Retrieve the etch parts fret supplied with stage 98 and remove 10 stanchions from it, remove any burrs from the stanchions. Cut grooves in the gunwale to fit five stanchions on either side, in the positions shown in step 15 of the instructions. Glue the stanchions into place. Prepare six more stanchions and glue them into the positions shown in step 16 of the instructions. Now take a length of 0.15mm thread and tie it through the davit on the starboard side, forward of the stanchions. Pass the line aft through the upper holes of the stanchions, then repeat on the port side. Continue to pass the lines through the upper holes of the stanchions going aft, crossing them over at the stern. Pull the lines taut and secure to the stanchions with glue.
Cut two 112mm lengths from the remaining 3mm dowel. Taper one end of these lengths to 1.5mm. Drill holes in the thick ends of the dowels and glue an eyebolt into them. Loop an eyebolt to each of these. Now shape two eyebolts to match those shown in step 18 of the instructions, you will need two sets. Drill holes in the side of the hull at the positions shown in step 20 of the instructions. Paint the three eyebolt pieces black then glue them into place. Glue the eyebolt at the end of the spar into the forward hole, then rest the spar onto them. Repeat on the other side of the hull.
Paint the stanchions and lines above the gunwale white, paint the sections below the gunwale black.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 120 Contents: Flags, Mast Trucks, Jib and Chain
Take the jib and tie a length of 0.15mm thread to each corner. Tie the upper corner to the foremast above the shrouds and the forward corner to the bowsprit. Tie the aft corner lines to the first shroud eyebolts on either side of the hull.
Fit an eyebolt to one end of the chain. Drill a hole in the bow, in line with the anchor chain and glue the eyebolt into the hole. Tie the chain to the bowsprit with 0.15mm thread, then shorten the chain by cutting off the excess.
Separate four stanchions from the parts fret supplied with stage 98 and remove any burrs. fit these along the gunwale at the bow, in the same way as those at the stern. The first stanchion should be cut down and glued on top of the gunwale. Pass a length of 0.15mm thread through the holes in the stanchions, tying the aft end to the davit and the forward end to the shorter stanchions around the bow deck.
Retrieve the boats assembled in stages 2, 23, 42, 43, 44 and 45. The three types will be fitted to the three sets of large davits on either side of the hull. Hole each boat under the corresponding davits and mark where they intersect. As shown in step 4 of the instructions. Tie 12 blocks to 12 eyebolts with 0.15mm thread. Drill shallow holes in the boats at the points you just marked, then trim the ends of the eyebolts and glue them into the holes. Tie a block to a davit with 0.15mm thread. Pass the line down through the block in the boat, then back up and through the davit block. Pull the line so that the blocks are together and tie off the line to the bottom of the davit. Repeat this with the rest of the boats and davits on both sides of the hull.
Retrieve the boats from stages 30 and 35. Secure them to the aft davits on both sides of the hull. Now fix the boats from stages 14, 16, 18 and 19 to the corresponding davits towards the bow, as shown in step 8 of the instructions. Prepare the rudder from the parts fret supplied with stage 22, painting it white and copper, then glue it inside the whaleboat from stage 14.
Separate the three flags from the sheet. Cut a 28mm length of 1mm brass wire and paint it white. Fold the small flag in half and glue it around the wire. Drill a hole in the gunwale at the bow and glue the flagpole into it.
Separate the stairs and rails from the parts frets supplied with stages 97 and 100 and remove any burrs. Bend the rails on the stair pieces up to a right angle, then glue the separate rails to the side of the stairs. Bend the upper platform down until the rails are all in line, then bend the ends of the rails. Now bend the lower platform up and the lower stairs down. Apply a coat of grey metallic paint to both assembles stairs and when dry paint the steps brown. Glue the stairs to the sides of the hull, positioning the top platform around the opening in the bulwark. Tie a length of 0.15mm thread from the davit down to the rail of the lower platform. Shape the supports from the parts fret to fit underneath the top platform and glue into place. Paint the supports metallic grey.
Remove the parts from the frets supplied with stages 103 and 107 and remove any burrs. Assemble the stairs as shown in steps 16 to 18 of the instructions. Glue the stairs to the sides of the ship, then tie lines from the davits to the rails with 0.15mm thread. Prepare and glue the supports into place under the platforms, then paint the supports metallic grey.
Fold the remaining two flags in half and glue them to lengths of 0.15mm thread. Cut an 80mm length of 1.5mm brass wire, then drill a hole in the stern deck for the wire. Bend the wire so that it angles back slightly. Tie the large flag to the pole, then glue the pole into place.
Glue the mast trucks onto the tops of the masts. Then, paint the ends of the masts and spars white. Tie the remaining flag to the top of the main mast, securing the other end of the line to the bottom of the mast.
Stage complete.
This completes the build of the Imperial Yacht Standart. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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