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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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We’re headed into a weekend, that means that my wife and I, and the extended family will be hole up until next week. Our town will swell from 20000 to 100000 or more. I’m really happy I have this to do. So I’m going to get going on Box 5 Stage 17. Check your blister pack for parts, as I pointed out before I have found parts and screw bags on the floor after opening the blister pack. I have all of mine, so I’m ready to start! Box 5 Stage 17. We’ll basically be building the front of the engine. Alternator and mounting brackets, pulleys, belts and a fan. Build and install the alternator. At Step 17.2 carefully push the front of the alternator 17c onto the post on part 17b. My parts bound up a little. I guess I didn’th think the parts would have such a close tolerance. Might be from the chroming process. * There is a shoulder on the block that will act as a stop as you tighten the CM screw to the bracket and into the block.Another bracket to hold the alternator, 17d goes above the water pump pulley and the post on the alternator. Two small washers make up the alternator pulley. One is shouldered to create the groove for the belt. The crankshaft pulley is next. Orient the four plates as shown, and two grooves will be built into the pulley. Check to make sure all the grooves line up for the belts. If not, go back and fix the crank pulley. There are three belts. Install as directed. Once thats done, we’ll really see the engine start to get big. I’ve done several 1/16 scale and a couple 1/12 scale engines, no comparison. This one is definitely much more of a beast! *Note: the belts are square. Be careful not to twist them. They look really ugly and obviously twisted, I know and I’m pretty near sighted.
*At this point, you may notice that the plug wires are in the way. Pull them off one at a time, at the valve cover, and twist about one time and see if it goes under the supercharger. If not twist the other way. Do this to as many as plug wires required to hold them all under the supercharger out of the way.
Build and install the fan. Make sure the blades fully seat in place. Last part for this stage is a tube doubling as the alternator wire. Install the tube, clean up your fingerprints, then admire this beast. Stage 18 and 19 are exhaust headers. I intend on doing both sets in the next session. Going for a short car ride tomorrow to see a flight of C-47s (6 of them) and other warbirds. admin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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Pack 5, Stage 18Box 5 Stage 18Right away I found out that the headers would require some patience and serious finger gymnastics. After several attempts and several fails I figured that I needed one less thing for my fingers to do. I decided to tap the header pipe with the AP screw. It worked, one less thing to try and do. Carefully thread each header pipe using the AP screw as a tap. I mounted the header pipes leaving the pipe just a little loose until all four pipes were mounted on the header flange. All the pipes have to end up flush so as to accept the header connection (collector) 18e. I installed the collector then finished tightening the screws. Push the collector on carefully. Mount the header pipes as directed with the mounting pin on the back of the flange forward . I left part 18f just loose enough that I could move it later when screwing it to the bottom of the car. I leaned the engine onto the mounting straps to install the headers. Now I get to learn how to do this in the opposite direction. Same thing, other side. At least I've got an idea of how to handle it this time. This set of headers was harder to install. Had to set the engine in my lap because the other side had a set of headers already installed. Lost screws, the plug wires going under the supercharger came off, and almost couldn't find the alternator wire after it came off. It’s all back together, no harm no foul. I sure appreciate all the extra screws. Stage 19.6,7,8&9Mounting the engine to the front clip. I set the engine on the front clip as directed. Had to do it twice before getting the four mounts lined up correctly. Tight fit. Be easy and go slow so as not to scratch the powder coat. The camber and toe on the wheels is starting to correct its self with the extra weight. BONUS. The transmission is screwed on from underneath. Get a soft cloth to set the engine on upside down to protect chromed parts. The engine is getting pretty heavy. Install the transmission screw. Everything is looking great. I’m really happy with this build so far. On to the steering box. Stage 20.1,2,3,4,5,6&7 I put the bevel gear 20d on the steering column, the pinion gear 20c into the steering box half as directed and found that it was binding. This assembly won’t have to move a lot, but, it was stuck. I took a fingernail file and filed the flats of the two gears just enough to get them to mesh better. Screwed the box together and had to repeat the process. Put the steering box back together and the motion was acceptable. The steering wheel will only turn about half or a little more due to the length of the idler arm. There are two recessed holes and a relief on the frame to put the steering box into. Hold the steering box and flip the assembly over. You might want to use that cloth again. Screw the box to the frame. Flip the assembly over and put the wheels all the way to the right. You will see the attachment point on the end of the tie rod. Secure the idler arm to the tie rod. Flip the assembly over again to attach the other end of the idler arm to the steering box. I had to gently collapse the steering parts toward the engine to get the idler arm to mount to the steering box. All done. Box 5 is completed. Starting to look familiar as a car. I’m anxious to start Box 6. The front platform (floor pan), engine housing, and the battery are up next. File Attachment(s):  18.1.JPG (1,562kb) downloaded 9 time(s).admin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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Pack 5, Stage 18Right away I found out that the headers would require some patience and serious finger gymnastics. After several attempts and several fails I figured that I needed one less thing for my fingers to do. I decided to tap the header pipe with the AP screw. It worked, one less thing to try and do. Carefully thread each header pipe using the AP screw as a tap. I mounted the header pipes leaving the pipe just a little loose until all four pipes were mounted on the header flange. All the pipes have to end up flush so as to accept the header connection (collector) 18e. I installed the collector then finished tightening the screws. Push the collector on carefully. Mount the header pipes as directed with the mounting pin on the back of the flange forward . I left part 18f just loose enough that I could move it later when screwing it to the bottom of the car. I leaned the engine onto the mounting straps to install the headers. Now I get to learn how to do this in the opposite direction. Same thing, other side. At least i’ve got an idea of how to handle it this time. This set of headers was harder to install. Had to set the engine in my lap because the other side had a set of headers already installed. Lost screws, the plug wires going under the supercharger came off, and almost couldn't find the alternator wire after it came off. It’s all back together, no harm no foul. I sure appreciate all the extra screws. admin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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Pack 5, Stage 19Stage 19.6,7,8&9 Mounting the engine to the front clip. I set the engine on the front clip as directed. Had to do it twice before getting the four mounts lined up correctly. Tight fit. Be easy and go slow so as not to scratch the powder coat. The camber and toe on the wheels is starting to correct its self with the extra weight. BONUS. The transmission is screwed on from underneath. Get a soft cloth to set the engine on upside down to protect chromed parts. The engine is getting pretty heavy. Install the transmission screw. Everything is looking great. I’m really happy with this build so far. On to the steering box. admin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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Pack 5, Stage 19Mounting the engine to the front clip. I set the engine on the front clip as directed. Had to do it twice before getting the four mounts lined up correctly. Tight fit. Be easy and go slow so as not to scratch the powder coat. The camber and toe on the wheels is starting to correct its self with the extra weight. BONUS. The transmission is screwed on from underneath. Get a soft cloth to set the engine on upside down to protect chromed parts. The engine is getting pretty heavy. Install the transmission screw. Everything is looking great. I’m really happy with this build so far. On to the steering box. admin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,907 Points: 5,737 Location: UK
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Pack 5, Stage 20 I put the bevel gear 20d on the steering column, the pinion gear 20c into the steering box half as directed and found that it was binding. This assembly won’t have to move a lot, but, it was stuck. I took a fingernail file and filed the flats of the two gears just enough to get them to mesh better. Screwed the box together and had to repeat the process. Put the steering box back together and the motion was acceptable. The steering wheel will only turn about half or a little more due to the length of the idler arm. There are two recessed holes and a relief on the frame to put the steering box into. Hold the steering box and flip the assembly over. You might want to use that cloth again. Screw the box to the frame. Flip the assembly over and put the wheels all the way to the right. You will see the attachment point on the end of the tie rod. Secure the idler arm to the tie rod. Flip the assembly over again to attach the other end of the idler arm to the steering box. I had to gently collapse the steering parts toward the engine to get the idler arm to mount to the steering box. All done. Box 5 is completed. Starting to look familiar as a car. I’m anxious to start Box 6. The front platform (floor pan), engine housing, and the battery are up next. admin attached the following image(s):
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