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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Started the Carbon yesterday, Its a bloody nightmare lol. Takes a bit of time to work out the best ways, but my question is. Ive got 2 suspension arms i'm not 100% happy with, and since i'm improving every time i kinda wana do them again, but whats the best way to remove it once its dry. Also going to clear coat them any tips. I a complete Virgin builder, pics might follow if they looks good enough to show lol
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/08/2011 Posts: 629 Points: 1,963 Location: Plymouth
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 I am staying well away from that Malarkey I just know i am going to regret it! I have seen some STUNNING work on Warthogs build!! That would be the man to ask.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Not as hard as you think , but its fiddly to get it looking perfect. Just need to no how to remove the decal once its been left on 24hrs
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Hi Loonyllamas' Not sure if you have already used the following product but will explain it anyway: If you go to a good Model shop and ask for 'Micro-Sol' that is the best thing there is for removing/applying decals. Just brush it on the carbon decals, wait a few minutes and it will wrinkle and soften the decals to something like VERY wet tissue paper. You can then just rub off the decal though it will come away in lots of little bits and be essentially useless, but I understand that you want to replace it anyway if I'm correct. When you come to apply the new decals, first make the surface as smooth as you can, removing any old decal or dust, then apply them as you normally would, i.e., with warm water and pressing them down with soft tissue but try not to force the decal around curves etc, where doesn't want to easily go. After which apply the 'Micro-Sol' in the same way as you did to remove the old ones but DO NOT touch them after they have softened and crinkled as they become EXTREMELY SOFT and fragile and they will tear if you even dare to touch them!! Don't worry about the crinkling, it is meant to do that and will slowly tighten the decal as it dries and will bend and sit around some quite complex curves by using this method. If after it dries, you find it hasn't settled properly into a corner or you have the odd small wrinkle, you can just add more 'Micro-Sol' in those areas and let it dry again. Keep doing this until it has completely conformed to the curves and is sitting nice and tight and shiny!! Then just spray or paint with Tamiya 'Clear Smoke' to lessen the glare of the carbon effect, leaving a subtle appearance. You can also get another product by the same company called 'Micro Set' which makes the decal react in a similar way to 'Micro-Sol' whilst improving the adhesion of the decals onto the surface being covered, though 'Micro-Sol' is best for stretching decals around curves and making it sit into tight corners!! Best to apply in small patches of decal rather than in great big lengths as the bigger the piece the more difficult it is to get it all laying flat, unless you are decalling something like an undertray which is large and flat and easier to decal. If you look at real carbon wishbones etc, you will see that they are in fact made up of lots of pieces of carbon cloth laying in different directions to give strength where it is needed, so a patchy decal will look more realistic than a one piece effect if you lay them in the right directions and symmetrical with each side of the car!! Phew!! Hope that helps?? Regards ... Kev.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Thanks for the reply, like I said might put pictures up. ive dont pretty much as you explained it, but I did use a very small heat gun that Mrs Llama has LOL it seemed to speed up the process a little and help mould it. Its more my first ones I did in one decal, they look good but I now they could be a lot better hence I'm gone start them over  but there a beggar to remove OOh I'm using Micro Sol and Halfords Clear
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Hi Loonyllamas, Sounds like you're doing it right then, by what you say but as you have discovered, putting it on in big patches is most likely where the problem lies, smaller pieces are better and easier to work with. Wouldn't advise using the mini heat gun either to 'speed up' the drying process, as that is probably having an adverse affect as well. Much better to be patient and just let the decal tighten at it's own pace and then you'll probably find that you end up with a better result. Regards ... Kev.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/07/2011 Posts: 99 Points: 293 Location: Marlow
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Having started this project I decided to Decal the front suspension. Laying on wasn't a problem but when finished it didn't look anything like the detail pics I have. I have been using Set and Sol for years and it does work well it was the decal itself I didn't like.
Having decided it wasn't what I wanted I dismantled the whole thing left and right and put the metal parts into cellulose thinners and removed everything back to white metal.
All parts were then resprayed gloss black. When dry I then had to find something that would give me the finish I wanted.
My wife came to the rescue and gave me some offcuts of netting! This was exactly what was needed, I put the net over individual parts and over sprayed with Alclad ii Aluminium. The parts were then oversprayed with Humbrol gloss black well thinned and although I say it myself I am very pleased, just needs some clear over the top and I can then reassemble the front suspension and then get back to the rest.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/03/2011 Posts: 203 Points: 620 Location: Surrey
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bigmal0 wrote:Having started this project I decided to Decal the front suspension. Laying on wasn't a problem but when finished it didn't look anything like the detail pics I have. I have been using Set and Sol for years and it does work well it was the decal itself I didn't like.
Having decided it wasn't what I wanted I dismantled the whole thing left and right and put the metal parts into cellulose thinners and removed everything back to white metal.
All parts were then resprayed gloss black. When dry I then had to find something that would give me the finish I wanted.
My wife came to the rescue and gave me some offcuts of netting! This was exactly what was needed, I put the net over individual parts and over sprayed with Alclad ii Aluminium. The parts were then oversprayed with Humbrol gloss black well thinned and although I say it myself I am very pleased, just needs some clear over the top and I can then reassemble the front suspension and then get back to the rest.
and once youre finished, you can bless us all with photos!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Hi bigmal0, bigmal0 wrote:Having started this project I decided to Decal the front suspension. Laying on wasn't a problem but when finished it didn't look anything like the detail pics I have. I have been using Set and Sol for years and it does work well it was the decal itself I didn't like.
Having decided it wasn't what I wanted I dismantled the whole thing left and right and put the metal parts into cellulose thinners and removed everything back to white metal.
All parts were then resprayed gloss black. When dry I then had to find something that would give me the finish I wanted.
My wife came to the rescue and gave me some offcuts of netting! This was exactly what was needed, I put the net over individual parts and over sprayed with Alclad ii Aluminium. The parts were then oversprayed with Humbrol gloss black well thinned and although I say it myself I am very pleased, just needs some clear over the top and I can then reassemble the front suspension and then get back to the rest.
Sounds good, would like to see some photos just to have a look at the effect even though I will be leaving my parts black (as they come), as I think it looks perfectly OK like that. I am also a fisherman and years ago I used to make my own Pike lures from carved wood which I then painted. Used to spray a base colour, then used expandable aluminium mesh, (like the stuff used for reinforcing the edges of plastered walls?) which was oversprayed with Silver or Gold to get a realistic 'Fish Scale' effect and it worked very well. Pretty much the same idea as yours so I think you must have a pretty good end result? Well done you (or your wife) for coming up with your own solution to the problem!! Regards ... Kev.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/07/2011 Posts: 99 Points: 293 Location: Marlow
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Your quite right once I work out how to get the pics from my Mac to this site!!! Any help Tony
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/03/2011 Posts: 245 Points: 726 Location: Norwich
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I posted this In Sean's build as a guide for him - hope it helps: The easiest option is to create yourself a free photobucket account & then upload the pictures to that album. Then in photobucket there is an option on each picture to copy the IMG code into your clipboard - like this:  Then paste the link or links into your post & they will look like this: Code:[IMG]http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i324/kryten2b/IMGcode.jpg[/IMG] Then you can post the diary & the images will be shown within your post  Well spin my nipple-nuts & send me to AlaskaCurrent Builds:McLaren MP4-23Finished007's Aston Martin DB5FinishedMillennium FalconR2-D2BTTF Delorean (Maybe)
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Ok removed all the old decal last night started again, but ive now got another issue I need a little help with, clear coat lol , gettting a few white areas ??? think it might be paint build up but not 100% Think its defo not a neebie thing to try, already wishing i'd not seen the others doing it lol lol, So far spent 6 hours doing 5 small parts lol lol
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/07/2011 Posts: 99 Points: 293 Location: Marlow
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I should like to add my two pennies worth if I may. I have gone down the decaling route several times over the last few weeks. My efforts still didn't really look right and I was struggling to find a decent carbon fibre decal. Anyway having bought several types of decal I fell onto a fair facsimile of what I thought might do. I had to remove the old finish and to do this I dumped all the suspension parts into Gun cleaner which took everything including paint from the surface. I then applied new decal onto the polished unpainted surface, and bingo it worked, 3 coats of Halfords clear and all looks as per my detail pictures. Sorry for going on a bit but that's the whole process.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Hi bigmal0, Glad you found a way that works where some may have just given up, so well done to you for getting there in the end !! Most decals work better if they are applied to a smooth surface, which is how you achieved your success, so always best to remove any unwanted paint or old decal before trying !! A good website here for showing the technique : http://www.modelcartips.com/carbon-fiber.html Regards ... Kev.
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Kev one of my many hobbies is my Carp, I have two pools in the back garden one is 12.5ft x 4ft x 3ft deep, and a bigger one 18ft x18ft x 5ft deep in this big pool I have koi Carp and one wild Carp and a beautiful wild mirror Carp, and they all come and eat out of my hand. The filter is a Nexus 4ft x 4ft x 4ft, with a nexus oxygen pump. As you mentioned you are a fisherman I thought you would be interested MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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