The cylindes group is also smoothed.

But before starting to think about the exhaust manifolds, I must first put together the engine in its total size.


The upper part does not distinguish between the head, fan cowling, fuel system… it looks like the whole cooling cowling but in reality it is not.

The Porsche engine is framed on the front… ..that does not exist on the front of the RSR… well, I started by eliminating it here too.
But by removing it, all the crack remains due to the absence of the front frame piece.

I removed what I needed and started working to close this gap.

Another problem: the timing covers. The carters have an external rib which in 1: 1 are used to fix the front part of the frame that is no longer there.

The right timing cover has the correct rib or eyelid and at the right height.
On the left instead:
- no right height (remains too low compared to the upper half colored in silver)
- no rib


I acted like this:

- I raised the timing cover by calculating the missing thickness and placing it at the same level as the upper part.
- I took out the wrong rib
- I filled the loop for the screw
- I recreated the most protruding rib

Finally assembled everything to see the overall effect ... .. the screws on the casings will disappear ... but for the moment I need to keep everything squared

My good model friend of Riccardo always tells me: "the man who makes models with legos"


Replicating the slightly V-shaped central bracket that follows the physiognomy of the monobloc is possible to scratch but it is a long job.
My Danish friends served me the solution (as usual) on a silver plate.

I Take 2 bricks, created the loop for the central frame and created the loops for the other lateral ones.
This frame will become load-bearing for both the engine and the turbo. To center it at the "v" of the base, the perfect position falls on the side of the side chassis struts.

I will open a slot in order to drop from the top and set the frame which will then be fixed to the monobloc by means of 4 studs (as on the real RSR)

On the central plate we will then have to think about how to fix the Turbo and the heat shield.
A lot of work to do, but i'm think on the right way.

I started with the main part of this conversion: the turbo.

Making me the turbos by myself was and is a difficult to made and also impossible for me.

So for the 0.70 cent I took a keychain with a compressor (or cold side of turbo unit) attached.
Given the generous dimensions, the problem was the exhaust side turbo (or hot side) which also on the RSR is slightly smaller in diameter. Having various pieces of the mp4/4 .... I borrowed an IHI compressor (which will then be modified in the connection for the downpipe to the exhausts and will be modified for the exhaust outlet)

In the middle I have the hub on which the various lubrication pipes will then be applied.

I drilled the hub, I disassembled the compressor and drilled and and then I modified the turbo of the mp4 to insert a 2.5 m nut

Starting from the compressor to get up to the turbo, there is a 16mm Allen key that crosses the whole body and screws onto the turbo itself .... practically in reality it would be the shaft, in the model it is the hub that holds everything together the whole turbo compressor unit .

Once the turbo is paired and created, it's time to fix it to the crossbar.

I created the bracket that supports the turbo with 1mm aluminum. I pierced the "breech" of the turbo, fixed the bracket and finally I bent it in a U shape to go and slip back into the usual turbo screw-shaft.

Once shaped, I then fixed it to the crossbar using 2 Allen screws. Given the weight and size, the glue was absolutely not practicable, furthermore making everything removable is easier for modifications, coloring and tests with the exhausts.

Beautiful work, a real pleasure to see.....

Regards

Alan

Once the group of turbo/frame was joined together, I started the work on the cylinder.

I calculated the point to drill and create the exhaust port.
I will need the six holes to insert 6 raised allen screw.
The head of the Allen screw is of the same diameter as the future pipe for the manifolds, the Allen screws therefore act as a connection for the manifolds.

With an old bit and hammer I made the graves to have the correct centering for drilling ... .. starting from 0.8 and up to 2.5.

With a plastic rod I created 3mm thicknesses to raise the Allen screw screwed into the internal part of the monobloc.

Finally, I placed the first 6 sectors of my exhaust system.

I decided to make it as with the 2T expansions or even the handmade exhausts and then to make the various sectors with the plasticard rod.

We'll see if I can do it.

Excellent scratch building, look good.

Mark

This is becoming a really interesting and different build. Looking forward to seeing what you do next.

Very nice work to date.



Looking forward to seeing this progress.


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Some amazing work going into this.

Mark

It's looking amazing.
Keep up the posts. They are great to follow.