Hi Tenderfoot,

I’m really loving following your build, this is a beautiful model. You are producing an absolutely stunning build, I’m sure lots of forum members will consider this kit.
Regards
Glenn

The finish on the Orlop decks was dry, so I went ahead and attached them to the rest of the model. Practically had to crawl up onto the workbench as I needed to look down through the holes to ensure they aligned just right with the base for the masts. Quite happy with the results.

Next up, the first few steps of Episode 8.

NOTE: regarding the following posts on building the lower deck. I did not make any modifications, however, I did assemble things in a different order than instructed.

Everyone beware! It is critical that you label pieces while they are still in the laser template as they do tend to fall out here and there. Some pieces are so similar that it could be very difficult to distinguish one from the other should this happen to you and you did not label them. Personally, I use a #2 pencil and write very softly so as not to make an impression in the wood. You know you have done this correctly if a soft rub with the eraser takes the pencil mark right off. If you find you have to scrub with an eraser, then you are scribing a bit too hard and working the graphite into the grain.

I went ahead and assembled, sanded the first four deck joists per the instructions. Where I did deviate from the instruction was that I did not glue these to the model...only did a dry fit. I found myself staring at the bits quite a lot and unsure how to proceed. Keep in mind, I am staining the main structural pieces of the hull so I need to be sure to do things in a way that allow me to sand and stain in all areas. Also need to be sure that things look nice and tight fitting at all the joints. Unsure of how to do this with so many little pieces coming together I decided to leave it be...walk away for a while (entire work day) and ponder on it.

One other item to note...in an earlier post where I described the installation of the deck supports I mentioned that I had accidentally installed one about 1.5mm too far forward. After looking ahead in the instructions it was unclear how this area got covered. However, by looking at the main photograph on the cover of the instructions it looks like this area will not be visible to anyone but that nosey little neighbor of mine two doors down...always the critic. Therefore, and to spite my nosey neighbor, I decided to leave it as is and adjust the cut where the joist rests. I have highlighted this in the image below. I will do this same thing to all 12 areas where the joist meets this support.

One more note prior to moving on to the next steps. For the cross beams I did need to sand them at each end just slightly so they would fit between the ribs properly. However, I removed as little as possible as I wanted to leave as much excess as I could. Later, once I have a section completed, I will dry fit it. Once in place I can mark/scribe each end of the cross beam and then sand it down to match perfectly with the supports. Only then will it be ready for final sanding, stain, and installation.

Once I was happy with the prepping of the pieces I glued them up, being careful to make sure the thwarts were square to the joist. Once I had the joist and thwarts glued together and gave them a couple minutes for the glue to set, I then moved on to glueing the transom supports in place.

Quick note...I was not quite sure what a transom support was and, based off an internet search, found that it is the pieces in the corner between the thwart (the cross braces) and the rib. If this is incorrect, please let me know. I will happily edit these posts accordingly.

Once I had the section glued up it was time to do some additional finishing work...sanding and more sanding...until the piece was satisfactory. You can see in the image below that after glueing the pieces together there are noticeable gaps in the joints. This is common, especially with laser cut pieces that are slightly beveled, and is not something to fret over. There is a little trick I picked up from other modelers several years ago.

The key is that one typically enjoys seeing all the intricate bits and pieces that go into model ship building. This is why you often see experienced modelers use a pencil or marker to create seams/caulking between boards/planks/decking. Knowing this, instead of trying to make a seamless joint, I like to call attention to the work that was involved in the joint. As such, the joint having a slightly darker color is exactly what I need.

To achieve this, I initially sand the area around the joint with a fine grit, typically 340. I use a finer grit as I want all those little bits of sawdust to work their way into the smallest of crevices. Pay attention to the direction of the grain. In most instances at a joint there will be two different flows of grain, therefore, use a circular sanding motion.

After I have sanded to the point where the joints are filled with fine sawdust, I then paint the joint area with diluted wood glue. I don't measure things exactly, but my glue to water ration is around 1 part glue and two parts water...it's pretty thin. I actually have an old glue bottle that I kept and use it for diluted glue. This same glue also comes in handy for rigging although it doesn't look like there will be much, if any rigging on this model.

I don't waste too much time painting the glue into the joints as I don't want the glue to dry. Diluted wood glue in small amounts dries amazing fast. Once I paint it onto all the joints I then rub my finger over all the areas to get rid of the excess. Next, I go at the joint with a bit rougher grit, typically 220, again in a circular motion, to make sure I get any remaining glue off. This also has the added benefit of working a finish layer of sawdust into the joints. Finally, I then go over the entire surface with 340 grit until things look and feel as I want them.

Then, I turn it over and do the other side. All in all, this section took me about two hours...not too bad. I included a couple extra pics that show how nicely the joints looked on both sided once I had finished the process. It is amazing how this simple process takes what appears to be a terrible open joint and makes it look nice and tight. The pics are about 300% enlargement and the joints still look good. At normal size, when viewing on a display shelf, they will look ridiculously nice.

On to the next little section. For this section I used 2A and 2B from template 8-04, 2 from template 8-07, and 30A and 30B from template 8-08. Followed my some process from the previous section. Taking my time to sand and fit things nicely.

On thing I do want to bring up is the critic importance of these sections being squared up. If you do not do this you will quickly find things veering off to one side or the other. The slightest deviation will multiple just a few inches further down the bow...so take your time and make sure things are square.

I personally thing the machinist square is one of the most important tools in my toolbox. I actually have several of these and use them all of the time. You can find these just about anywhere online and I suggest you get a few different sizes, but all sized should be small. The ones in the pic below are only 3 inches on the longest side. These things make ship building a much more pleasant experience.

The next section I constructed consisted of 3A and 3B from template 8-04, 3A, 3B, 4A, and 4B from template 8-07, and then 31A and 31B from template 8-08. This is the section where the mast will fall through. Followed the same procedure. Once I had all the pieces fitted together, I joined them with the main support and then dry-fitted it on the hull. While it was in place I scribed where I needed to sand down the ends of the supports and transom supports (indicated in greed in the image below).

After getting everything to fit nicely, I then joined this section with the previous ones. Note in the image how I take advantage of the grid on my cutting board to ensure things remain square.

Finally, dry-fit into the hull and everything slides into place very easily and fits very nicely. I took a quick peek down the mast hole and all is lining up beautifully. I am completely satisfied so far with this approach.

You are doing just great, Tenderfoot.
I'm enjoying this so keep it coming.
Chris

The 6th Section is where the lower deck goes over the main mast. This was the most complex section so far. Not necessarily the most difficult to construct, simply most complex in terms of number of pieces. The most difficult to construct was the first section as it required the most tedious shaping of pieces to fit nicely against the stern.

To build the 6th section required the following pieces:
• 6A, 6B from 8-04
• 7A, 7B from 8-05
• 9A, 9B, 10A, 10B, 11, 12A, 12B, 13A, 13B from 8-07
• 34A, 34B from 8-09

Below is an image showing the assembled section prior to final clean up. Again, nothing too difficult other than to ensure you are putting pieces in the right places. Also, take careful note when you dry-fit it on the hull that the hole for the main mast lines up perfectly with the main mast footing on the keelson.

Now that I have sections 5, 6, and 7 completed and fitting nicely I glue the three sections together. Keep in mind, as I am doing this I am also ensuring that I am able to slide the section in and out of the hull. Would be such a shame to build something and make the classic mistake of not being able to get it through the door...or in this instance, past the ribs.

Something else I was taking notice of as I constructed each section. On the main supports that consisted of two pieces, if you want to remain accurate to the actual build you need to pay attention as to which direction the joint in each support is facing. In the picture below showing the three assembled section I have highlighted what I am trying to describe. Having these accidentally facing the wrong direction (flipped port to starboard) would not cause you any problems with the build, this is instead just a minor detail that would be closer to what the actual ship builders did back in the day.