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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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I've just about finished R2D2! My subscription is over and I've got all the parts (though I'm stuck at issue 84 until a replacement motor shows up). I was wondering if you guys could offer some advice on a few points: 1) What batteries to get? The last discussion I could find on here dates from 2020, so I was wondering which batteries were still recommended and available. I thought about the Panasonic NCR18650PF, but it's only 3.6V nominal instead of 3.7V and the photos don't clearly show a button top. https://www.18650.uk/pan...8650-battery-button-top I've also seen reference to the Samsung 30Q on here, but it's also only 3.6V and has a 3000mAh capacity (with 2600mAh recommended by deAgostini) https://www.18650.uk/sam...8650-battery-button-top
What would be the best to go for? Also, does anyone know if the website 18650.uk is a reputable company? Lithium ion batteries scare me a little bit, and I want to make sure I'm getting a good product. 2) When I got my final pack, the magazine for issue 98 was missing. Not the parts, the magazine! I contacted CS a few weeks ago but I'm still waiting. Is the issue available for download somewhere? Or could some kind person perhaps upload photographs of the instruction pages?
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Hi Nathan The battery voltage 3.6/3.7 is nominal, that means it is an average so should be perfectly okay. The battery usually charge at 4.2v go down to 3.0v. There is a full description on what you need here. Just make sure they are NOT protected. Troubleshoot If I can find the instruction I’ll post them later and send you a link. Mark
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 171 Points: 503 Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Nathan, Regarding issue 84. A very good source of spares is HLJ. They have a few spare issues of issue 84 in stock at cheap prices. I've bought some R2 issues from them in the past - quick and efficient service. Although the mags are in Japanese the parts are correct. R2 Issue 84Regarding the instructions for 98, don't forget there is an in depth official build diary on this site for issue 98 including plenty of reference pics. Issue 98 build diaryHappy building. :-) BUILDING: Taking a break / Waiting for the next epic build to be released
COMPLETED: Hachette Spitfire, Hachette Bismarck, Deagostini Millennium Falcon, Deagostini R2-D2
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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Thanks for the information! I did some more reading around, and I've just gone ahead and ordered 6 of the Samsung 30q batteries. Here's hoping they work :)
@S4Simon I didn't think that HLJ would have had back issues, I wish I'd known sooner as I've been paying eBay prices for spare parts when CS was being too slow (or I was just being too impatient :D)
I'm hoping CS come through with the remaining magazine, as I'd like to have the full set, but that build diary looks like it should be great. I'm a little irritated with CS at the minute, though, as I'm also missing the mains adaptor from issue 100. It might be a while before R2 powers up.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 171 Points: 503 Location: Adelaide, Australia
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I wouldn’t be relying on an expeditious shipment from CS ( they will come thru in the end). They do the best with what they have, but my delay on issue 62 was over 2 years. I bought 62 from hij and continued my build happily. It’s another great build. No technical issues encountered as long as you work thru each issue with meticulous attention to connections.  BUILDING: Taking a break / Waiting for the next epic build to be released
COMPLETED: Hachette Spitfire, Hachette Bismarck, Deagostini Millennium Falcon, Deagostini R2-D2
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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And R2 is finished! Batteries should be arriving in the next day or so, but reading issue 100 I suddenly realised that even though I initially charge the batteries separately, I can't turn on R2 unless I use the charger to activate the protection circuitry. And of course, they missed out the charger when they sent me pack 100. Does anyone have an amazon link or something to a suitable replacement charger? Also, I noticed that the sticker describing what the chest buttons do was in Italian. The box with the main circuit board in was also covered in Italian warnings, sot his has me a little worried - will this mean the audio accompanying the holograms will be in Italian? I remember reading on here that the audio was country-specific. NathanR attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 171 Points: 503 Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Power supply is nothing fancy. The one that came with R2 has an output of 1.5v and 2 amps. Available from eBay or electronic shops. BUILDING: Taking a break / Waiting for the next epic build to be released
COMPLETED: Hachette Spitfire, Hachette Bismarck, Deagostini Millennium Falcon, Deagostini R2-D2
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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Only 1.5V? I thought that with six batteries with nominal discharge 3.6V each, it would have had to be a lot more!
Any constraints on the size of the plug that connects into R2?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 171 Points: 503 Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Yep my eyes are bad. Output is 15 vdc. @2amps. By the looks of it plug is 3.5mm inner and 5mm outer  BUILDING: Taking a break / Waiting for the next epic build to be released
COMPLETED: Hachette Spitfire, Hachette Bismarck, Deagostini Millennium Falcon, Deagostini R2-D2
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The other thing to be aware of is to make sure you get the right polarity. That is which way round the + and - are. As shown on the back of the plug. Mark
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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Thanks for the transformer specifications, S4Simon, but I'll be blowed if I can find a suitable match. Most transformers that go to 15V are 45W, with an output current of 3A, and I'm not sure if that just means R2-D2 will charge faster, or if it will risk burning out the electronics. Also, the 5.5mm/3mm jack size really seems to be a non-standard size. I've pinged CS again, and will see what they say. On another issue, I got my batteries, but they all have these strange burn marks on the button top (see photo). Is this just part of the manufacturing process? NathanR attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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So I got the transformer at long last, and have been charging the batteries over the last few nights. Everything went smoothly, except for the last cell.
The battery started at 3.4V, charged to 3.9V then stopped. I took it out of the charger, it looked ok, plugged it back in, then it charged normally to 4.2V. Is this battery likely to be ok, or should I be looking for a replacement?
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I would just keep an eye on the battery, if it charged properly to its full charge it is most likely okay. But it is your call as to whether you get a new one. Just make a note of where that battery is when you place them all in the battery box, so if you have an issue, you know which one to replace. Mark
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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We've got a heartbeat! Or... we did. Briefly. I decided to install the batteries, even though I thought one might be a little dodgy, and R2 started up perfectly. The arms work, the speaker works, the lightsaber popped up, it was great. I was laughing like a maniac. The patrol mode movement was a little jerky, I assumed that there were too many obstacles confusing his sensors, but after I cleared some space to try again the right leg motor started making a horrific grinding noise, followed by a slight cracking sound. And with that, R2 is dead and won't boot up any more. So, any advice on what went wrong and where I go from here? Is carpet a major no-no for running R2-D2? It didn't seem to be affecting the left leg, but could it have caused the wheel to jam such that the turning motor has cracked the internal gears? I really don't want to have to strip R2 to the metal framework, iIs it possible to dismantle the right foot without detaching the right leg from the body? NathanR attached the following image(s):
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Hi Nathan Carpets are not good for R2’s operation, it makes it jerk and possibly topple over. You could take the bottom panel off the leg to see what is going on, but the removal of any insides would mean the leg has to be detached as most of the assembly screws are on the side that is closest to the main body. Mark
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2021 Posts: 23 Points: 72
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for the input. I'd thought the carpet might be alright, as the wheels have quite a high clearance, but I guess not. I did notice that once or twice R2 kind of stuck in place, with the wheels just spinning. Driving backwards he was absolutely fine, but I guess that's just the design - it's probably easy to move when dragging the centre leg's caster behind, than to push with the caster in front. I'll see if I can get better performance on the kitchen floor.
I've looked back through past issues and I might just be able to get access to the motor without removing the leg. I really don't want to have to redo the cable routing, and past experience tells me I'll never get the plugs disconnected without damaging the circuit boards. Still, I'll have a try tonight.
Cheers
Nathan
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