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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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Can you clarify the spec for this part of the build. You advise
9x3mm blocks =27mm spaced at 8x10mm intervals = 80mm total length =107mm.
The length of the rail is 83mm - a discrepancy of 24mm. Am I missing something?
P.S. I am only up to issue 70,but if I have the parts available I tend to prep up in advance
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Its nine blocks 5mm long (not 3mm).
The 3x3mm strip used (from in 66) is 70mm long, and therefore is enough to cut nine blocks 5mm long.
The rail is noted as 83mm long.
The magazine say's "glue the blocks at 10mm intervals", which for the rail to have a slight overhang at either end as shown, 10mm can't be the case.
I simply spaced the blocks equally along the rail to leave a slight overhang of rail at either end, which slipped my mind to add this into the diary.
You can of course make the rail slightly longer if you want the exact 10mm spacing, which is a 10mm space from centreline to centreline of each block, rather than being a 10mm space from face to face.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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[quote=Tomick]Its nine blocks 5mm long (not 3mm). The 3x3mm strip used (from in 66) is 70mm long, and therefore is enough to cut nine blocks 5mm long. The rail is noted as 83mm long. The magazine say's "glue the blocks at 10mm intervals", which for the rail to have a slight overhang at either end as shown, 10mm can't be the case. I simply spaced the blocks equally along the rail to leave a slight overhang of rail at either end, which slipped my mind to add this into the diary. You can of course make the rail slightly longer if you want the exact 10mm spacing, which is a 10mm space from centreline to centreline of each block, rather than being a 10mm space from face to face. [/quote Tomick - thanks for the input.The mags Figures are wrong. Based on 9 blocks and a 10mm gap between blocks the rail would need to be 110mm long to accommodate those figures. I measured port to starboard and 110 mm did not look right. So I am sticking with the 83mm as per mag. I have made the following adjustments. 1.5mm overhang at both ends = 3 mm 8 blocks x 3mm wide = 24 mm 7 spaces x 8mm per space = 56 mm this equates to the recommended length of 83mm. You will note   that I have reduced the number of blocks from 9 to eight.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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nine blocks at 10mm centre = 83 mm ,1mm over hang =85mm, first block starts at 0mm+1 second at 10mm there fore no9 stops at 80mm
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Spigs your 110mm rail length suggestion is wrong.
The steps show centre line marks on the rail for each 3mm block, each block is located centrally on its centre line, therefore each block straddles its centre line by 1.5mm either side of the line.
The gap from one centre line to the next is noted as 10mm, but the actual gap from block face to the next block face can only be 7mm simply because 3mm is taken up by two 1.5mm straddles per gap.
The closest I could get to the 83mm rail length as follows:
9 blocks @3mm = 27mm
8 spaces @7mm = 56mm
1mm overhang at either end x2 = 2mm
Total = 85mm
Which equals 2mm short in rail length (reduced to 1mm if you reduce the overhang to 0.5mm)
I took no notice of the 10mm spacing and simply spaced the nine blocks equally upon the 83mm long strip to leave a 1mm overhang at either end.
It is of course possible that the number 3 digit of the 83mm rail length is a typo error and it should be 85mm
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/03/2011 Posts: 34 Points: 98
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I'm confused about this whole thing, I picked up issue 79 yesterday, which I believe is the current issue. I seem to remember reading a post from Tomick about the official build diary being one issue ahead so we can have a look at what is ahead. (I may be wrong about this I can't find the thread)
So from this, I have read the official diary and can see nothing about 10mm spacings, this is what Tomick says;
Cut nine 5mm lengths of 3x3mm strip, ensuring all are the exact same length, then space the nine blocks evenly onto the 6mm wide rail made earlier, gluing the first block in the centre of the rail and leaving a rail overhang of rail at either end.
That is a direct cut and paste from the official diary, I see that Tomick says "Space them evenly", I do not see anything about 10mm spacings.
As I have to wait until next week to see issue 80 (I checked with my newsagent a while ago and I am as up to date as is possible for that newsagency) So Spigs how have you got a copy of issue 80? Especially as you say you are only up to issue 70
By my calculations centering each 5mm block at 9mm centres gives 9x9 = 81mm, that then allows for a 1mm overhang each side.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Each block is 3mm sq not 5mm.
The magazine says '10mm intervals' which is what the text of my diary build orginally noted, and was then altered for clarity because the magazine is not clear on the spacing being from the centre line of each block to the centre line of the next block though the strip is marked as such, rather than being a 10mm gap between each block which is certainly not the case.
Even so, the rail at the noted 83mm long is not quite long enough for the 10mm centre line spacing to include rail end overhangs.
The simple matter is to evenly space the blocks to leave a slight overhang of the rail at each end as shown in the steps.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Shipmates!  Underhill your correct we are at issue 79 from the newsagents spigs is working from Tomick build diary. Both Tomick and Willie are right this graphic might help clear the confusion. Nine blocks are cut each block is 3mm x 3mm square cut to a length of 5mm standing on their ends, the centre of each block is 10mm apart. A possible typo in the instruction, I made the top rail on the graphic 2mm longer = 85mm, but as I and all the others don’t have issue 80 until Wednesday we will have to wait and see. 
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Well i would love to muddy the waters a little... I will apologise in advance  Having looked at the original i suggest you require 8 2mm x 2mm blocks evenly spaced with an overhang to create an authentic look.  PS Photo is authors collection  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Spot on with the graphic Darron Personally I would go with an 85mm long rail as already mentioned, I'm awaiting an answer from design as to 83mm being a typo which seems the most likely scenario.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Now that's put the cat among the pigeons jase  A quick check of McGowans book does indeed confirm 8 blocks. So to be accurate, Spigs end result is correct to have 8 blocks spread over the 83mm length, must have been an omen 1.5mm overhang at both ends = 3 mm 8 blocks x 3mm wide = 24 mm 7 spaces x 8mm per space = 56 mm = 83mm
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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Tomick wrote:Now that's put the cat among the pigeons jase A quick check of McGowans book does indeed confirm 8 blocks. So to be accurate, Spigs end result is correct to have 8 blocks spread over the 83mm length, must have been an omen 1.5mm overhang at both ends = 3 mm 8 blocks x 3mm wide = 24 mm 7 spaces x 8mm per space = 56 mm = 83mm Sorry that an innocent query has caused so much consternation - not least to myself! To stay faithful to the build,I have built another rail using nine blocks.I used a length of 86 mil that allowed me the scope of sanding the edges to a radius,and at the same time meeting the 83mm measured along the line of the glued strips. I now have two rails - one 8 block, and one 9 block - so which to use? Well,in the picture kindly proved by Jase there appears to be a net for stowing ropes that is fixed to stanchions which in turn are fixed above the blocks - but do we know if this net will feature as part of the build? If it does I will use the 8 block rail,if however there is no further detail to be added I will use the 9 block rail. One further point. Below the rail there are 21 fire buckets,clearly this quantity is beyond the scope of the build,but will any be provided - I doubt it as the scale size would make it almost impossible to handle.Perhaps Tomick,with his contacts could confirm this and the point about the netting
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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looking at the photo my gess for the buckets is 3mm dia x3mm high[ may be try it if get boared]
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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An actual Victory bucket from 1803 and a photo of how they look now. As for the nets and supporting stanchions for the rail, I've not seen them as yet but that's not to say they're not in the mix. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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spigs wrote:Tomick wrote:Now that's put the cat among the pigeons jase A quick check of McGowans book does indeed confirm 8 blocks. So to be accurate, Spigs end result is correct to have 8 blocks spread over the 83mm length, must have been an omen 1.5mm overhang at both ends = 3 mm 8 blocks x 3mm wide = 24 mm 7 spaces x 8mm per space = 56 mm = 83mm Sorry that an innocent query has caused so much consternation - not least to myself! To stay faithful to the build,I have built another rail using nine blocks.I used a length of 86 mil that allowed me the scope of sanding the edges to a radius,and at the same time meeting the 83mm measured along the line of the glued strips. I now have two rails - one 8 block, and one 9 block - so which to use? Well,in the picture kindly proved by Jase there appears to be a net for stowing ropes that is fixed to stanchions which in turn are fixed above the blocks - but do we know if this net will feature as part of the build? If it does I will use the 8 block rail,if however there is no further detail to be added I will use the 9 block rail. One further point. Below the rail there are 21 fire buckets,clearly this quantity is beyond the scope of the build,but will any be provided - I doubt it as the scale size would make it almost impossible to handle.Perhaps Tomick,with his contacts could confirm this and the point about the netting If you look at the cover of issue 69 you can clearly see the netting is in place. i would work on that basis personally. As for buckets it would be possible to add them even if not supplied more importantly there is an instrument locker in front of the wheel and as far as I can see we don't get that.  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Part for the compass binnacle are supplied at 84 and the binnavle is made/installed at 87 and includes its securing lines. In the issue, the binnical appears to be set too far forward of the ships wheel, where to be accurate the binnical should almost butt up to the the ships wheel. For the magazine build, the binnacle was placed close to the wheel while still leaving room for an novice modeller to tie off the lashings. It's also worth noting that the binnacle currently only has two lashing points, but on reference drawings four are shown, which are reflected in the magazine build. There also appears to be differing finishes of the binnical, in Jase's photo shown above, it is black which is how it currently looks, however in a photo on page 98 of the book noted below, the binnacle is shown as being a dark walnut colour, which is how it likely would have been back in 1805 and until recently. 'HMS Victory first rate 1765' by Jonathan Eastland & Ian Ballantine, published by Seaforth publishing. http://www.portsmouth.co...t_hms_victory_1_3085486#
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thanks for that Mr T. I think I will gow with the wallnut feels right. “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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