|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
...but, I during the fitting of the decks I discovered an issue that I have completely missed until now The gallery support is not straight The starboard edge of the support sits a good 1.5mm lower that the one on the port side. It doesn't sound a lot but it's looks very obvious to me. I remember at the time that I was quite enthusiastic finally starting the planking and must have missed to double check the proper sit of the support beams. I didn't notice the difference either when planking this bit with the frame upside down. I'm not sure of how to rectify this. Has anyone came across a similar issue? My current thinking is to leave it and hopefully it won't be as obvious once the gallery is completed... Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,072 Points: 3,245 Location: Buckinghamshire
|
Hi Odo, I don't recall having the problem of the gallery deck being off-line slightly on my build although it almost certainly was! What I do know is that by the time the external gallery cladding is fitted, you will not notice that the inner deck is slightly askew. My personal advice (not always the best, mind you ) is to leave it as it is. Incidentally, that hull cladding is probably the neatest I have ever seen. Keep it going and look forward to more build updates. Chris
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
goddo wrote:Hi Odo, I don't recall having the problem of the gallery deck being off-line slightly on my build although it almost certainly was! What I do know is that by the time the external gallery cladding is fitted, you will not notice that the inner deck is slightly askew. My personal advice (not always the best, mind you ) is to leave it as it is. Incidentally, that hull cladding is probably the neatest I have ever seen. Keep it going and look forward to more build updates. Chris Hi Chris, Thanks for your remark about the hull cladding, appreciate it. The question is can I keep it up. Time will tell... The inner decks of the gallery are actually straight. It's the gallery support with the two gun ports that's sloping. However, I think you're right and for the moment I'll leave it, as I can't think of a way to rectify it. I probably gonna take the gamble and hope i'll be able to counter act the slope when fitting and cladding the gallery walls. At the end it'll only be noticeable if you look at the gallery straight on and only if you actually know it's there
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
I want to give Woody's ModelWorks a big shoutout as I was lucky enough to order one of the last available gallery enhancement kits as well as the water level markers. As so many other fellow builders I found that the provided gallery does not quite look right and really appreciate that people put the time and effort into providing enhancement kits of that quality to highlight certain features looking as great as they are on the real Victory itself. Well done Woody's ModelWorks! Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
The dimensions and details of the provided gallery ornaments, figure head and side entries are also not to my liking. And as I don't have the skills such as wizard Willz demonstrates in his build to get the details I want, I found these ones from Shapeways. After reading through Woody's gallery instruction I discovered, he used them as well. They are not cheap but I think definitely worth the money... Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Administration Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,928 Points: 5,796 Location: UK
|
Once again, I’m struck by the planking! Fantastic job!
The detail set looks great too, and I can’t wait to see it in place.
Cheers,
Mark
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
Thought to try out adding some detail to the side walls of the entry ports. The walnut strip wood I used for the gun ports wasn't wide enough so had to glue a couple of pieces together to get a width that was workable with - well, at least to a certain extend. The wood was so soft that I could get clean cuts to simulate the panel inserts... My first attempt: Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
For the second attempt, I used a single wider piece of walnut that I ordered together with the strip wood for the wales. Luckily this was 'harder' and much easier to work with when it came to carving it. After I used a few coats of deep mahogany varnish to give the side panels some colour. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
Finally, I wanted softer inner frame edges as they are on the real Victory, so I had add and shape some rounded corners. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Semipro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 69 Points: 210 Location: bristol
|
Hi Odo that level of detail is amazing keep it up, its insperational stuff. thanks for sharing the info on shapeways i am missing the lower gun port canopys for one side of the ship and have been trying to source them for last year,and i have found them now on that site, although the supplied ones are 19.4mm on that site they are 1:72 and the 1:84 ones are 16.7mm. So maybe the deagastoni supplied parts are slightly oversized. but i will stick with the 19.4mm ones for now. It seems like theres only a few of us building and posting at the moment it,s one of those hobbys where the amount of work can seem overwhelming at times no matter what stage your at there is still another mountain to climb. i hope you persevere with it i will be following your progress in awe of your skills.
best regards Richard
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
Thanks Richard! It's seems to be a never ending climb that requires a lot of focus and foresight. I love this forum for the sake of the latter but it's sometimes a curse at the same time. With the instructions as well as all the materials provided by DeAgostini you'll end up with a fine model (that's why I've gone with this one) but scrolling through all the other amazing diaries you'll always come across something that can improve the overall appearance or find advise from fellow builders to overcome tricky stages. Often, I find myself spending more time browsing in this forum than on my build. I can see what you mean with the slightly oversized details, especially comparing them to the ones used on the real ship. It seems a lot of builders stuck with the kit ones and they look just the part. But since you had to point it out my OCD will be taking over to focus on this matter more closely... at some point Cheers, Odo
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
Good evening my fellow modellers I wish, I could give you and update about the gallery, but I had to put that part of the build aside for now. I'm still debating on how I want the gallery to look and can't quite come to a definite look just yet. I'm sure, I'll settle on something later but felt that I had to take my mind off the bigger building stages and wanted to focus on one of the smaller builds. One thing that always bugged me was the by the kit suggested design of the binnacle. To me it doesn't resemble the real one at all and as it's in an area of focus, deserves a bit more attention to detail. There are plenty of 3D printed options out there which I might consider, but I wanted to give it a try making one from wood first myself. I had no idea exactly how to, but I figured it'll come to me whilst building. And of course the first attempt didn't quite cut it... Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
A couple of years ago I ordered some brass rods that I need for my cannon assemblies. In that order i was provided with a sample pack of brass, steel and copper cylinders of various sizes. I thought, I could utilise these to simulate little compasses as they can be seen in the real binnacle on the Victory. And one of the smaller brass ones with a 3.2mm diameter seemed to be the perfect option for this. It was clear that my first design didn't allow me to incorporate these, so I had to start over as I needed a better frame. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
For the front and back panels I used the leftover plywood from the launch build. Using the whole piece of ply would've given me to thick panels. The ply is made up from 3 layers which are easy enough to be separated with a chisel knife. The result is a 0.5mm thick sheet of wood perfect to make the panels. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
Now for the compasses: Initially, I just cut the pipe I had in half leaving me two 2.5mm high pipes which I wanted to imbed in wood simulating the housing/box but whichever way I tried, the wood was always splitting and falling apart, since the width was only 0.3mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. I needed brass rings! Unfortunately, I could saw the pipes anymore as i couldn't hold it in place whilst sawing, and using a vice would've deformed the pipe. So I had to file them down by hand. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
After gluing the 0.6mm high brass rings with a diameter of 3.2mm to some dark oak stained square wood blocks of 3.5mm, I filled the rings with white paint. I then cut a few hairs off a fine paintbrush and used them to simulate the layout of a compass. In order to achieve this I filled the ring with wood glue and imbedded the hairs before the glue dried. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
For the lantern: I used the help of my high precision lathe, aka electric drill... I had to ask my 6 year old one for help to keep the trigger pulled at a constant speed... more like variable speed - he tried, bless him. Just goes to show I really need to get a proper lathe! I first had to make a dowel from a square wood, which I first painted white, then then with a clear yellow and finished with black accents. Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
For the glass: Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2020 Posts: 171 Points: 522 Location: Hampshire, UK
|
and so it comes slowly together... Odo attached the following image(s):
|
|
Guest
|