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Issue 13
Contents
Ceiling Beams C, E & L, Chair Backrest, Arm Part Panels, Seat, Seat Base, Legs x 4, Seat Cushion, Backrest Cushion, Armrest Cushions and Fabric.
Assembling the Dining Room Chair
Separate the legs from the sprue using a craft knife and sandpaper the ends. Cut out the two-armrest cushions, again using a kraft knife. I sanded down the chair legs on the edges to give them a more rounded surface. Join the chair back rest and seat without gluing and hold the backrest upright. Mark with a pencil where the backrest supports touch the seat. Shave down the edges of the supports as shown, leaving 1mm at the ends. Join the backrest to the seat again, ensuring that the backrest is tilted backwards and glue into position.
Glue the seat base to the underside of the seat, making sure it is central with equal distance around the edges. I sanded the underside to smooth the edges as shown.
Now glue the four legs making sure the curve of the legs points forwards.
The next stage, I found that if you glue the armrest support to the armrest first, it made it easier to assemble. Again, I lightly sanded the chair before painting it white and allowing it to dry.
Now paint the chair the same colour as the dining room table as I did in the previous stage.
Tip: Make enough of this paint and keep in an airtight container as it will be needed in the next issue and later on in the future when we make the 3-seater sofa to go with the rest of this suite.
The next stage is to attach the fabric to the cushion covers. This was very fiddly and needs a lot of patience, so take your time.
Cut the fabric about 40mm wide and keep the remainder for later use. Put some double-sided tape on to the back of the fabric as shown and place the seat cushion on. Cut around the edges leaving about 3mm of fabric around the outer edge. The easiest was to push the fabric around the edges is to smooth your finger around slowly, pushing out the creases as you work your way round. Do this with the back cushion and the armrest cushions.
Note: The armrest cushion is very fiddley. I used some super glue to hold parts in place as I worked around the edges.
Assembling the First Floor Ceiling
Take part E and part L and glue the two pieces as shown. Now glue part C as shown and hold them in place with some clamps. Now paint these the same way as you did before with the previous beams in issue 12. Again, I cut notches out of mine as I did before to give a little realism.
With the ground floor assembly attached to the ceiling, glue the beam assembly in place as shown.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 14
Contents
Ceiling Beams A, K, H & F, Chair Backrest, Arm Part Panels, Seat, Seat Base, Legs x 4, Seat Cushion, Backrest Cushion, Armrest Cushions and Fabric.
Assembling the First Floor Ceiling
Take part F and part A and glue the two pieces as shown. Now glue part H and then part F as shown and hold them in place with some clamps. Now paint these the same way as you did before with the previous beams in issue 12. Again, I cut notches out of mine as I did before to give a little realism.
With the ground floor assembly attached to the ceiling, glue the beam assembly in place as shown.
Assembling the Dining Room Chair
Separate the legs from the sprue using a craft knife and sandpaper the ends. Cut out the two-armrest cushions, again using a kraft knife. I sanded down the chair legs on the edges to give them a more rounded surface. Join the chair back rest and seat without gluing and hold the backrest upright. Mark with a pencil where the backrest supports touch the seat. Shave down the edges of the supports as shown, leaving 1mm at the ends. Join the backrest to the seat again, ensuring that the backrest is tilted backwards and glue into position.
Glue the seat base to the underside of the seat, making sure it is central with equal distance around the edges. I sanded the underside to smooth the edges as shown.
Now glue the four legs making sure the curve of the legs points forwards.
The next stage, I found that if you glue the armrest support to the armrest first, it made it easier to assemble. Again, I lightly sanded the chair before painting it white and allowing it to dry.
Now paint the chair the same colour as the dining room table as I did in the previous stage.
Tip: Make enough of this paint and keep in an airtight container as it will be needed in the next issue and later on in the future when we make the 3-seater sofa to go with the rest of this suite.
The next stage is to attach the fabric to the cushion covers. This was very fiddly and needs a lot of patience, so take your time.
Cut the fabric about 40mm wide and keep the remainder for later use. Put some double-sided tape on to the back of the fabric as shown and place the seat cushion on. Cut around the edges leaving about 3mm of fabric around the outer edge. The easiest was to push the fabric around the edges is to smooth your finger around slowly, pushing out the creases as you work your way round. Do this with the back cushion and the armrest cushions.
Note: The armrest cushion is very fiddley. I used some super glue to hold parts in place as I worked around the edges.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 15
Contents
Door Panels x 7, Door handles 2 pieces, The Character “The Ancestor”
Assembling the Door
Layout the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail as shown. Take the vertical piece, the one with the hole for the handle. The position of the hole is lower than the centre. Take the bottom rail, which is the largest of all three and glue this into position as shown, making sure the hole in the vertical part is lower. Now take one of the door panels and glue this as shown. Fix the centre rail and then the other door panel. Take the top rail and glue this into position. Finally take the right-hand side door piece and fix this into position, making sure the door structure is square. Now leave to dry.
Once this has had time to dry fully, sand the door smooth ready for painting.
For the painting I mixed some light brown and woodgrain acrylic paint. I thinned this down, so it was almost a wash. I gave it two coats of paint allowing each coat to dry first. To give it the antique pine effect, I used a black acrylic wash, again I thinned this down further and gave it two coats sparingly. This highlighted the grain in the wood and gave it that antique pine finish. Unfortunately the picture don’t do it justice.
Once this has dried, fix the two handle parts, one to each side, a little glue may be needed.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 16
Contents
Door Frames Left, Right and Top (A), Door Frames Left, Right and Top (B), Base of Door, 2 pins. Cabinet Parts Panels A, B and C, Doors x2, Strip and base panel.
Assembling the Cabinet
Use a kraft knife to cut and separate the parts of the dresser. Apply glue to the cupboard side and cupboard frame from sprue C. Attach the upper cupboard frame making sure both the frame notches are at the front. Next, glue this to the main base part with the legs facing to the bottom. Now attached the middle shelf which is larger than the top. Attach both carved sides, noting the carved side faces outwards. Attach the top shelf and fix the cornice to the underside. Finally, glue the post into the notches in the shelves as shown.
Keep this and the remainder of the parts safe as this will be completed later.
Assembly of the door and frame
Assemble the door frames left, right and top (A). Glue the left and right frames to the side openings, noting which way round they go by the wallpaper. Now attach the top frame. You will notice the hole at the top left of the frame, this is where the pin will hold the door in place. Next, attach the bottom of the door frame in the notches, make sure the hole in the bottom frame matches the hole in the top. Now turn the wall over and attach the rest of the door frames as before.
Note: make sure the frame protrudes slightly inwards, so it holds the door when it is closed.
Attach one of the pins to the top of the door you assembled in the previous issue. The handle of the door should be nearer to the bottom. Push the door and pin into the top frame. Once in, place the next pin in the bottom frame, pushing it through to the door.
Tip: I pushed the pin in to the point I could feel the door hole, applied some glue to the remaining pin sticking out and then pushed it all the way in.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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