Many thanks Chris, in my opnion these 1/8 model are a good starting point to improve (original or tuned look).
Inglese

If I mounted them standard out of the box, I think I would have gotten bored right away after 2 models.
In addition to the pleasure of modifying them, it also becomes a personal challenge to learn new techniques and improve your skills.
Thanks again for your follow

I'm almost at the end of the necessary subframe mods before I can start painting

Studying the 1:1 Poresche I understood that at the rear the frame has the rear axle which houses the torsion bar... the bridge (on real 911) is one with the frame.
DeA has studied the suspension - rear axle group separated from the chassis, I believe for easy assembly.
After checking the possibility of an alternative assembly, I also "welded" what should be the tube that would accommodate the torsion bar as in reality.

I drilled the frame in front of the gearbox for the future passage of the clutch cable, gearbox linkages and passage of the handbrake cables.

Another modification: the suspension domes have been equipped with two additional housings for the pipes coming from the exhaust which would serve as heat exchangers... in my turbo they no longer exist. So I created a new bulkhead with additional reinforcement to cover everything, and the gearbox fits into place without problems.

Another superb update.
A great idea to use a real bitumin paint underneath. I'll have to remember that one!

With the chassis ready I can start thinking about assembling the hub and suspension unit.

with the generous lowering of my 911, I had to work on various elements.

I had to change the fixing height of the steering box with respect to the bar on the frame which houses the future wishbones.
This increase in height serves to make the steering rods work without them having a contrast spring effect with respect to the suspensions themselves. Furthermore, working with extreme angles (if mounted if the modification) the tie rods shorten their working axis and drastically begin the positive convergence.

I worked on the areas circled in green to increase the fixing height of the servo box to the bar by creating two spacers with plastirod. By increasing the mounting distance I then used longer screws.

Increasing the height I had another problem with the screws that close the two semi-shells of the steering box, a shot of nippers and a file also solved this problem by eliminating the two slots circled in red

Once the dimensions had been verified I inserted the central tie rod into the steering box and closed the half shells with ABS glue.

Once I verified that the assembly of the new parts was correct, I started painting/working on the new brake assembly.

I give a layer of Tamiya silver leaf and then mounting the discs on the drill and I started working with the powders and 6000 sandpaper to create a minimum "braking track effect"

I then masked the disc and painted the hub... then I did some washing with the panel line

I painted calipers in dark gray and added the hydraulic pipe for the flow of the liquid on both sides of the caliper

With the disc-caliper assembly archived I moved on to work on the hydraulic connections of the braking system.

Studying various images of 911 taken from the internet I reproduced the connections between the rigid pipe that goes to the master cylinder and the braided pipe that goes to the caliper.
Once positioned I worked on the rigid pipe using wire and shaped it to connect the calipers.

I then created the central joint connection and drilled it for the passage of this rigid pipe which will connect to the master cylinder.

After fixing everything, I then connected everything to the calipers with the braided hose...front braking system is now complete.

I then created caps to hide the unsightly crosses of the screws.

Between the lowering and the tank and the images online, I saw that some 911 are equipped with the skid plate specifically to repair/armor the front end (and I am also equipped with it on my 1:1 VWs).
There are various shapes and sizes. I want to replicate it in aluminum without complicating my life too much, I chose an easy shape.

I started with some cardboard and used a spare front end to have a template and not risk ruining the " azure torquoise".

I placed cardboard on aluminum and I then cut and shaped. I purposely scraped and scratched the skid and purposely left the scratched plate covering the steering box.

Once the plate was finished and fixed I went behind my "idlers"... with my tested system on my others models with vinyl glue and rubberized tape I wanted to give a little roughness to the tyre.
I give Primer and then 3 coats of matt black. Once dry I hand-painted the idlers writings with the nail stippler...at least I have a more truthful chromatic vision.

Last detail before putting an end to this part: Bilstein decals on the front shocks and "Wiechers sport" on the skid.

I start my work on rear...and it also needs a lot of revisions.

The gearbox is correct in overall form but is lacking in various details.

The gearbox breech does not have the output that controls the shaft that goes to the gearbox; with the limited space available I tried to design it in such a way as to create the housing for the gearbox rod (gearbox which perhaps will be a CAE shifter)

Another necessary work is the housing of the starter motor....I imported a pic to have the references, I redesigned the missing part of the flange necessary for the new starter motor...also redesigned (but which I will post further on)

Another part replaced are the joints of the driveshafts...the originals were really ugly

Thanks Chris and very glad of your comments and enjoying your watch.



Once the new housing for the starter motor was fixed , I completed thework with plasticard.

I then completed the work on the starter (I searched online and found "light weight" starter motors for the 911), I fitted the bolts and finally mounted them on the gearbox.

I painted the iinner joints and started assembling the rear axle and some details on the boots.

In the meantime I'm thinking (since the gearbox will remain open for quite time) to print the internal bell housing with the output shaft that engages the clutch assembly and crankshaft

I painted the rear shock absorber top mount purple to recall the polyurethane Powerflex .

Next steps: the assembly of the rear braking system and the final details to be able to finish the lower part of the chassis

Thank ModelSpace so much for this award and for the follow-up you have for this "not exactly conventional" project. I'm very glad for these words

Thanks to the admins and the forum.
I hope I do a good job and don't bore you too much