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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,040 Points: 3,149 Location: Buckinghamshire
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I am currently on my third of the model trams that are around and I have a constant problem which hopefully(?) occurs on other areas of modelling.
The windows are just perspex sheet glued the window frames.
My problem is that no matter how late in the build I leave the window, they get coated with dust and all sorts. I can't cover them over inside as they gradually become inaccessible.
I would love to install them last but can't see a way of doing that.
All ideas and comments grateful accepted.
Chris
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Hi Chris. The only thing I can think of would to use some micro sized styrene quadrant moulding strips painted black to simulate rubber 'gaskets' and to line the window openings but only on the inside (to start with). Then you could leave the window glazing off until the very end and finally fit them in position and secure them in place with another styrene quadrant on the outside possibly glued in with one of the clear canopy glues which won't affect the clear acetate. Other than that you could make sure the window acetate fits exactly into each position and pre-glue the quadrants on both sides of the acetate before gluing the whole thing into the cut out using the same canopy glue. Windows are never easy!  Robin. First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,040 Points: 3,149 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Hi Robin,
Thanks for the reply but I must admit that I had to read it about three times before I fully understood it!
It now makes sense and I shall run a few experiments to try and emulate your suggestions.
Chris
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Hi Chris! I'm not surprised you had to read it a few times - so did I after I'd written it! I thought at the time a little diagram would have made it clearer, the trouble is I can only log on to the forum with the windows 10 computer but all my design stuff for the diaries can only be done on the old windows xp one! The Corel Printhouse program I use won't function on 10 and it's successor Corel Draw is horrendously expensive still (even second hand!)  Never mind, hopefully you've got the gist ok and I'm looking forward to see how it turns out! (Then I'll know if I can use it in the future!!)  Best of luck! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,040 Points: 3,149 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Hi Robin.
It's OK thanks. Honestly, it all became very clear.
In this instance gaskets on the rear of the window openings won't really work but I have a cunning plan (as Baldrick would say).
I intend to start a build diary on this so, if my plan works, I'll show you what I did.
Chris.
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Rank: Administration   Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,966 Points: 23,087 Location: East midlands
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Hi Chris, The attraction of dust sounds like a static electricity issue and I`m sorry but I don`t know the answer. The one thing that I am sure of is, that I will be watching the build diary as I love these tram kits. Bring it on I`m ready.   Regards delboy271155 (Derek) Admin COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 12/02/2024 Posts: 5 Points: 15 Location: Sheffield area
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Hi, You can get anti static sprays that clear coat plastic, if that helps. I have never used it myself, but you never know! There is also anti static cleaner for perspex, but it only lasts a month, but I guess that would be okay once the windows are in? Mark. "I remember it like it was yesterday. Of course I don't really remember yesterday."
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,040 Points: 3,149 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Hi Mark,
Thank you for the input but I have tried anti static spray and it doesn't stop some of the "stuff" floating around while the model is in construction.
I have got some different anti static cloths coming today but don't hold much hope.
Chris
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Hi Chris. The other 'brilliant idea' I had was to use that clear non adhesive 'static' film like you get on all new gizmos with an LCD screen or similar, the stuff that you have to peel off before use. You can get a similar product on ebay for applying to windows to either make them translucent for privacy or to cut out the UV coming through the glass. The obvious problem is that it might be fine for the outside but might be very difficult to remove again from the inside after the roof goes on! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,040 Points: 3,149 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi Chris. The other 'brilliant idea' I had was to use that clear non adhesive 'static' film like you get on all new gizmos with an LCD screen or similar, the stuff that you have to peel off before use. You can get a similar product on ebay for applying to windows to either make them translucent for privacy or to cut out the UV coming through the glass. The obvious problem is that it might be fine for the outside but might be very difficult to remove again from the inside after the roof goes on! Robin Hi Robin,
Appreciate your time giving this windows some thought
The real problem is the insides of the perspex when they are inaccessible.
It's a good thought with the film that you mentioned. A bit too late for this model now but I shall certainly think about using it in the future.
Chris
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