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Issue 61
Contents
Second Floor Staircase, Moominpappas Desk.
Building the Staircase.
In this issue, I will be building the complete staircase which the parts are supplied over three issues.
The reason behind this was to build the staircase as one issue rather than in the parts split between the three issues, allowing me to paint it in one piece.
This process is the same as I did with the ground floor and first floor staircases. Gather the staircase parts from issues 61, 62 and 63.
Pictures 1 and 2 show the parts from issues 61 and 62.
Glue the two halves of the staircase from issue 61 and 62 as shown in picture 3. Once the parts have had time to dry, attach the assemblies together using quick drying glue as before, pictures 4 and 5.
Now onto the steps, picture 6. These are a cream flat plastic and although the instructions tell you to paint these with a brown paint, I felt they needed a little more to give them the wood effect this kit deserves. So, with my little rotary and glass etching tool, I lightly carved a wood grain into each plastic step. These were then primed with white paint, using the same mixture of paint, I used on the wooden furniture. I mixed light brown and wood grain paint together. These were given two coats of paint and allowed to dry before using a diluted black wash over each step. Finally, I gave them a coat of satin varnish to finish.
Once the stair assembly has had time to fully dry, I then filled in the gaps with Bondo filler. This was allowed to dry for an hour before I sanded it smooth. Next, I primed the part with grey primer, allowing this to dry fully before giving it a light sanding. The next stage, I gave the staircase two coats of spray white primer and allowed this to dry thoroughly overnight.
Finally, I painted the whole staircase with white acrylic paint using a washing up sponge to create a stipple effect. I gave this two coats of paint, drying the first coat with a hair dryer to quicken the drying process, whilst I had the paint in the pallet. The white acrylic paint must be of a thick consistency for this effect to work, pictures 7 and 8.
Picture 9 shows the banister parts that come in issue 63. These were painted with a white paint in preparation for fitting onto the staircase.
Once all the parts had been painted and allowed to dry, I assembled them as instructed in the magazine. Each step has a number on the underside showing you where each one is positioned on the staircase. It does suggest using glue to hold them in place, however, these were a tight fit and this was not necessary.
I then completed the staircase by attaching the banisters. Picture 10 shows the staircase complete.
Pictures 11 and 12 show the staircase in place.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 62, Part 1
Contents
Second Floor Staircase Parts, Moominpappas Desk.
In this issue I will be making Moominpappa’s desk. The assembly will be slightly different from the magazine as I will be painting sections of the desk all in one go as well as embedding a leather inner section on top of the table to match the leather chair I made previously. I will also be splitting the issue into two parts to spread the number of pictures I have taken. So, let’s get started.
First, we glue the middle section to the partition as shown in picture 1, note the two larger slots in both parts fit into each other. Now glue one of the legs from the “A” batch of four, these are the squarer legs, picture 2. Next, attach another of the legs to the other side, pictures 3 and 4. Attach the other two squarer legs to the right-side panel as shown in pictures 5 and 6.
Take the two crossmember parts and glue them together as shown in picture 7. Attach the “B” legs to the left side panel so that the top of the legs aligns with the top edge, picture 8. Now add the two longer strips to the right side and the two shorter strips to the smaller back panel, picture 9.
Now this next part is where I go off track and make the top of the table with an inner leather section. For those following the magazine the tabletop will just be glued onto the assembled bottom section.
Picture 10 shows the original desktop. I took some wooden stirrers I used on the ground floor skirting boards and cut them into four parts with each part cut into a 45-degree angle to attach to the outer edge of the desk, picture 11. Once glued in place and allowed to dry, I sanded smooth all the edges, picture 12. This was then painted black, the same as the bookcase and chair, picture 13.
I cut a piece of 1mm thick white plastic card to fit into the centre of the desk in between the outer rim. Picture 14 shows the plastic card cut and the piece of the goats leather I will apply over the plastic card ready to insert into the desk. Picture 15 shows the leather attached to the card as well as some gold strip to apply onto the leather to give it a gilded edging. The final picture shows the completed desktop with the leather and gilded edging.
That completes part one of this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 62, Part 2
Contents
Second Floor Staircase Parts, Moominpappas Desk.
Take the drawer parts as shown in picture 1, and carefully cut out the parts and sand the edges smooth. Take the larger bottom drawer part, the back and two side panels and glue them in place as shown in pictures 2 and 3. Now place the front panel on, picture 4. Note: if you intend to paint the desk the colour the magazine shows, attach the front panel with the white side on the inside. This also applies to the smaller drawer fronts.
Take the three smaller drawers and place the smaller back section and glue it in place to the back. Attach the front panels in the same way as the larger drawer unit, pictures 5 and 6.
At this stage, I painted all the parts as shown in picture 7 before finally assembling all the part together.
Separate the two shelf parts and attach them to the partition, making sure the cut section of each panel match with the top shelf, pictures 8 and 9. Attach the back and the side panels with glue. I used two small clamps to hold them in place. Now attach the crossmember as show in picture 10.
Attach the left side panel to the shelf panel and the outer crossmember between the legs. Finally, attach the back panel between the left side panel and partition. Picture 11 shows the complete bottom assembly of the desk.
Take the four drawers and using quick drying glue, attach the brass handles as shown in pictures 12 and 13.
Picture 14 shows the completed assembly of Moominpappa’s desk.
The final two pictures show the desk along with the bookcase and chair.
That complete the assembly for this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 63
Contents
Second Floor Staircase Parts, Door.
Picture 1 shows all the door parts.
Insert the lower horizontal strip into the vertical strip and apply wood glue, picture 2.
Take the door insert and glue it in place into the slots. Fit the top horizontal strip, picture 3 and finally the vertical strip which has a hole for the doorknob in, picture 4. Note: the hole for the doorknob needs to be nearer to the bottom of the door.
Using quick drying glue, attach both the door knobs to either side of the door, picture 5. Place one of the pins into the hole at the top of the door as shown in picture 6, using quick drying glue to hold it in place.
Take the door frame parts and assemble them as shown in picture 7, using wood glue. Make sure the 2 holes in the top and bottom of the door frame are to the left of the frame, picture 8.
Now place the door into the frame by pushing the pin in the top of the door into the hole in the top of the door frame, picture 9. Push the rest of the door so it squares up into the frame and push fit the remaining pin into the bottom of the door frame and seal it with quick drying glue to hold it in place, picture 10. Picture 11 shows the assembly so far.
Take the second-floor assembly of the house and fit the door into the doorway as shown in picture 12. Now attach the remaining 3 door architraves around the door on the opposite wall, picture 13.
That complete the assembly for this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 64
Contents
Wood Store
Picture 1 shows the contents of this issue.
Glue the cross bars to both the front beams and rear beams, picture 2. Note: the rear beams have two grooves. The front left and right post have an extra notch at the top, which is different to the rear posts.
Lay the rear post down making sure that the top edges slope is outwards as shown in picture 3. Attach the rear beam with the notches facing inwards, then attach the two horizontal beams into the slots as shown in picture 4. Allow this to fully dry before attaching the two posts to the base, picture 5.
Glue the front posts as shown in pictures 6 and 7, making sure the top edges slope outwards in the same way as the rear posts. Glue in place the horizontal front beam, picture 8. Allow this to fully dry.
Separate the parts of the wall and rail and smooth the edges. Attach the short rails to the left and right of the floor, followed by the front rail. Next, glue the two wall parts, making sure the lines face outwards and that the painted edge is showing on the top, picture 9.
Take the two roof slopes and attach them the top of the assembly, making sure the curved edge is at the back, pictures 10 and 11.
Now glue the tiles to the roof as you have previously done before. Note: the roof tiles are numbered, so starting with the right side of the roof, attach them in numerical order, picture 12.
Do the same with the left side, starting with tiles number 6, picture 13.
Using quick drying glue, attach the ridge tile to the top as shown in picture 14.
Tip: I sanded the bottom rails on the edges to give a smoother appearance, then painted both the side rails with a pale blue paint to match. I also dry brushed some of the blue wall sides to give a slightly worn appearance.
Picture 15 shows the complete assembly for this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 65, Part 1
Contents
Bed Duvet and Pillow, Door.
Picture 1 shows all the door parts.
Insert the lower horizontal strip into the vertical strip and apply wood glue, picture 2.
Take the door insert and glue it in place into the slots. Fit the top horizontal strip, picture 3 and finally the vertical strip which has a hole for the doorknob in, picture 4. Note: the hole for the doorknob needs to be nearer to the bottom of the door.
Using quick drying glue, attach both the door knobs to either side of the door, picture 5. Place one of the pins into the hole at the top of the door as shown in picture 6, using quick drying glue to hold it in place.
Take the door frame parts and assemble them as shown in picture 7, using wood glue. Make sure the 2 holes in the top and bottom of the door frame are to the left of the frame, picture 8.
Now place the door into the frame by pushing the pin in the top of the door into the hole in the top of the door frame, picture 9. Push the rest of the door so it squares up into the frame and push fit the remaining pin into the bottom of the door frame and seal it with quick drying glue to hold it in place, picture 10. Picture 11 shows the assembly so far.
Take the second-floor assembly of the house and fit the door into the doorway as shown in picture 12. Now attach the remaining 3 door architraves around the door on the opposite wall, picture 13.
That complete the assembly for this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 65, Part 2
Contents
Door, Duvet Cover and Pillow.
Assembling the Duvet Cover.
Take the bedspread fabric and lay it on a flat surface and place the paper template in the centre. Trace around using a pencil, picture 1, then fold in the edges.
Straighten out the edges and place some double-sided tape around the edges as shown in picture 2. Peel off the backing of the double-sided tape and fold the edges of the fabric again, picture 3.
As before with Moominmamma’s bed, make a 10mm and 5mm pencil line and fold as shown in picture 4, I used some double-sided tape to hold the folds in place.
Assembling the Pillow
This should be very straight forward as this is the fourth one, we have made so far.
Fold the fabric in half. Next, unfold the fabric and lay it reverse side up. Lay the template, supplied in this issue, on the fabric and trace around the perimeter, picture 5.
Along the line of the outlined template, fold the edges, picture 6.
Fold the edges of the fabric inwards on both the long sides and stick some 1cm double sided tape as shown in picture 7. Next, cut the edges of the fabric diagonally about 4mm. Now, peel off the backing on the tape and fold the shorter side inwards.
Take a napkin, I used a piece of kitchen roll, and fold it so it is slightly shorter than the template and when pressed it is approximately 2mm thick. Peel off the rest of the backing to the double-sided tape and place the napkin inside. Carefully fold the whole assembly in half, pushing the napkin in with a pair of tweezers if necessary. Push the edges together around the fabric until it is firmly stuck down. Picture 8 shows the pillow complete.
Picture 9 shows the completed duvet and pillow together. That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Guest (2)
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US
