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Graham's 97T build Options
Steve279021
#21 Posted : 02 July 2024 10:35:31

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Looking good graham👍
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Graham27
#22 Posted : 03 July 2024 17:28:43
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I forgot to add the decals.

There is a way of removing the carrier film so that the decals look like they have been painted on, but do NOT attempt this unless you have some experience working with model decals as it is VERY easy to damage them.

After the delay with package 3, package 4 with 6 stages should arrive soon BigGrin
Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part8e.jpg
Graham27
#23 Posted : 03 July 2024 22:43:05
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Here's a bit of totally useless information, on completing part 8, I've used 18 different types of screws, 17 cross head and 1 hexagon socket screw.LOL

Graham27
#24 Posted : 17 July 2024 19:47:10
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Something isn't quite right.

The two lower wishbone arms aren't sitting symmetrical Confused Not quite sure what's going on, but it needs further investigation.

Does anyone else have this problem?
Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part 10a.jpg
Steve279021
#25 Posted : 17 July 2024 20:10:14

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I've just done stage 9, I'll probably do this stage tonight. I'll see how mine turns out and let you know
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Steve279021
#26 Posted : 17 July 2024 21:40:24

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Here's mine Graham, not as bad as yours but still not 100% straight. Maybe they just need a little bending.
Steve279021 attached the following image(s):
20240717_193750.jpg
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delboy271155
#27 Posted : 17 July 2024 22:01:32
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Hi Guys, Crying Blink

I have been in convo with Roy the official builder. He did not have an issue at this point and he has assembled the whole front end, again without issue.

I therefore have taken out of my stash (as yet unbuilt) the parts in question.

DO NOT under any circumstances bend these parts as they are cast and will snap.

The solution is this:

The two posts on each wishbone have to much paint on the surface that sits in the bottom of the holes they fit in.

Remove the wishbones remove the paint with a micro file (very carefully, do not remove metal) and reassemble.

My parts were not as bad as in Graham`s picture, but more likely the way Steve`s were.

I would say that my wishbones are less than 1mm in difference to each other now as opposed to 3mm, max 4mm.


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delboy271155
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roymattblack
#28 Posted : 18 July 2024 10:24:02

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I've had a close look at my build so far and I didn't have this issue at all.
As Derek says, maybe too much paint in the joining areas or possibly the parts not being fitted together quite level when the screws were put in.

A really simple solution though is to just back off the screws 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn which will loosen the parts. It will have absolutely no adverse effect on the build later on as the uprights and upper arms will keep everything aligned.

A pic attached of mine at present - all nice and level.
(Apologies for the dust - lol)
roymattblack attached the following image(s):
P1014513.JPG
Graham27
#29 Posted : 19 July 2024 12:18:54
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Well, part 9 was fun Glare Not sure how much was of my own making though.

Steps 9-1 & 2 Everything went together okay, although screw LP doesn't look anything like that in the picture, it has a large flange (built in washer) to sit on part 9B

Step 9 - 3 If you're going to follow the instructions, then there are no issues, apart from I had to remove a little bit of flash with a scalpel so that the two gauges would sit down flush.

I've been building various types of models for almost 60 years or so. From WWI aircraft and tanks to space ships and everything in between. Where possible I like to find reference pictures of the model I'm building to make sure things are as they should be. This is where the internet is a great source of information, BUT not everything on the internet is as it seems.

On searching for pictures of the 97T cockpit. Strangely enough I could only find one picture that shows the two dials 9H & 9I. Not only were they reversed, but both were turned approximately 30 degrees clockwise. It makes sense to turn the dials clockwise slightly as it would make them a little bit easier to read. So, that's how I fitted my dials.

Steps 9 - 4 & 5 no problems.

Step 9 - 6 I think it must have taken me around 30 minutes to fit part 9A. whether that was due to me reversing the two dials or not, I'm not sure, but I think the problem was getting the lower gauge past the red emergency cut off button. Anyway I got there in the end.

Steps 9-7 8 & 9 all went together without any issues thank goodness.

Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part9a.jpg
part9b.jpg
part9c.jpg
Graham27
#30 Posted : 19 July 2024 13:27:41
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I still can't get the 2 wishbones sitting symmetrical, even with gently removing the paint on the mating face.

I think the problem may be caused by excess paint which has run down the wishbone and pooled at the end. I'll try fine sanding that down to see if that is the issue. I have some black enamel paint if I need it.


Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part10b.jpg
part10c.jpg
part10d.jpg
delboy271155
#31 Posted : 19 July 2024 15:49:06
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Hi Graham, BigGrin

The problem with the paint that you show in Pic 2, is similar (not as pronounced) to the problem I had in the places where you cleaned off the paint in Pic 3.

Those posts are never going to fit properly with that amount of paint on. It`s the proverbial square peg in a round hole.

Well done on the analysis and hope it all gets sorted. WTG.

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Graham27
#32 Posted : 19 July 2024 22:31:18
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Part 10 finished at last.

I had to sand off all the excess paint and touch up with some Tamiya acrylic gloss black. As the joint is hidden inside, nobody will ever know.

I shouldn't of had to do anything. For a kit of this price I'm rather disappointed that QA is not on the ball.
Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part10e.jpg
Steve279021
#33 Posted : 20 July 2024 01:07:05

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Glad you got it sorted Graham👍
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Dodge charger build complete
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Graham27
#34 Posted : 20 July 2024 08:29:53
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Steve279021 wrote:
Glad you got it sorted Graham👍


Thanks, I must admit I'm getting quite frustrated with the quality and fit of some of the components. I think I've has fit issues in parts 11, 12 & 13, that I'll mention in my build below. I haven't started part 14 yet, I was assembling in the garden yesterday with a nice cold beer to hand BigGrin . I think that's why some of the pictures I took yesterday outside look a bit iffy.
Graham27
#35 Posted : 20 July 2024 08:59:36
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On to part 11

Step 11-1 Problems straight away, there was excess flash//burr on part 11B which stopped part 11A from seating properly. I had to gently remove the excess using a modeling sanding stick. I didn't bother to touch up the sanded area as it will be hidden in the finished assembly.

Step 11-2 I couldn't tighten any of the BM screws fully. Using a Dremel type tool and a pair of long nose pliers to hold the screws, I shortened them by about 0.75mm, then everything went together okay.

Step 11-3 This assembly went together fine BigGrin

Step 11-4 I had the same issue with the screws not tightening Glare

Steps 11-5 & 6 I thought parts 11I looked a bit odd, out of scale Confused . Parts 11D and 11H were quite loose in their housings so I used a tiny amount of pva glue to hold them in place.

Why use pva glue over say superglue? Where the bond just needs to keep the parts in place and doesn't have to have any strength, the advantage of using pva glue is 1) it dries clear and 2) if need be, the joint can easily be broken.
Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part11a.jpg
part11b.jpg
part11c.jpg
Graham27
#36 Posted : 20 July 2024 09:24:10
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Part 12

Steps 12-1 to 12-5 all went together without any issues Flapper

Step 12-6 Item 12H was a little loose on 12F, so I used a tiny drop of slow drying superglue to keep it in place. Why superglue this time and not pva? Pva does take a little while to cure and possibly having to attach the clear tube in the next part several times I wanted a stronger bond than using pva.

Step 12-7 No problems attaching the brake pedal.

We're getting there slowly BigGrin

Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part12a.jpg
roymattblack
#37 Posted : 20 July 2024 11:47:39

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Glad to see it coming together now.
It's looking good.BigGrin
Graham27
#38 Posted : 20 July 2024 12:30:08
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roymattblack wrote:
Glad to see it coming together now.
It's looking good.BigGrin


Thanks, getting there slowly BigGrin
Graham27
#39 Posted : 20 July 2024 13:26:08
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On to part 13, dare I say it but after the issues of parts 10 & 11, I actually enjoyed part 13.

In some of the pictures it's clear that parts 11D, 11H and 11I have fallen off, that's why in part 10 I mentioned about holding them in place with pva glue.

Step 13-1 I found it easiest to attach the clear tubing 13K to 13A first, and then attach 13A to 10A using the two DP screws. Then using a pair of pointed nose pliers or tweezers attach the other end of 13K to 12H. That all went okay, apart from the fact that I think part 13K is too long. It doesn't look or sit right, so I removed a couple of mm from the 12H end of the tubing, test fitted it until it looked better. I can't believe that on the real car there would be a piece of cable or tubing that would be so close to the accelerator and brake pedals. That's just me Flapper

Steps 13-2 & 3 No matter how I tried, I couldn't get the brake or clutch cylinders to sit properly on 10A, as such the holes for the DP screws didn't line up. The solution was to loosen the DP screws for part 13A about half way, fit the cylinders with their DP screws then retighten 13A's DP screws.

Step 13-5 Part 13L was pushed onto part 13F, which was then pushed into the smaller hole of 13B. the other end of 13L was attached to 13A.

Step 13-6 I found it best to push part 13D into the clutch cylinder 13B first, then part 13G. They are quite a tight fit, but if everything is aligned properly, they do fit fine. Then fit tbing 13M between 13G & 10A

Step 13-7 I pushed part 13I into 13H x2 (which was quite a nice tight fit), then attached the thin tubing to both 13I bits. Parts 13H were quite a sloppy fit in 13B, I thought it best to carefully apply some slow drying superglue to the holes in 13B and fitted the previous assembly.

Step 13-8 The four IM screws fitted okay, but I had to remove about 0.75mm from the length of the DM screws, they then fitted perfectly.

Steps 13-9 & 10 No issues here, just make sure that the JM screws are fitted from the front.

A few little issues, but an enjoyable assembly.

Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part13a.jpg
part13b.jpg
part13c.jpg
part13d.jpg
part13e.jpg
Graham27
#40 Posted : 21 July 2024 22:10:06
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I knew it wouldn't last Cursing Crying

Here we go with part 14

Step 14-1 Fitted okay, but the pin in the middle is a VERY tight fit in the body. With 2 fingers inside the body and my thumb pressing on the cockpit panel where the pin is, it went together okay, but I must admit I was cautious that the pin could be easily snap.

Steps 14-2 & 3 No problem fitting the two parts. My biggest issue was seeing the holes where the screws went, but that might have been due to too much wine with Sunday lunch.

Step 14-4 For some reason I found it easier fitting the CP screw if I rotated part 14D 180 degrees, then rotate back into position and tighten the CP screw.

Step 14-5 Unable to fully tighten them I found both HM screws to be .75mm too long. Once slightly shorter they fitted fine.

Step 14-6 Although I found 14G quite a tight fit, after it was in place it appeared rather loose, so I applied a couple of tiny drops of slow cure superglue on each pin to hold it in place.

Step 14-7 As it can be seen in one of the attached pictures, the hole in the left steering rod is slightly out of position. I'd noticed this before, but was unsure if it would affect assembly. And guess what, it did. I had to grind out the hole so that part 14E would fit. Just as well I had the tools available that allowed me to do that.

Step 14-8 I think someone is having a laugh at our expense, that or they have shares in a electrical wholesaler. There is no way a 3mm cable tie is the right size. That would make it 24mm at 1:1 and would look absolutely ridiculous. With modern 3D printing it's possible to print a cable tie type of the right size. On the actual car the brake pipe is held in place with 3 ties on the trailing edge of the front wishbone. 1:8 model cable ties are available from 3rd parties, they aren't cheap about £25 for 40 but will make the model look 1000% better. I have some on order, so I'll wait till they arrive and post an update once fitted.

Step 4-9 I had to trim a little bit off the KM screw, apart from that, no issues.

I must admit I'm getting a little fed up with the lack of quality control on some of the parts. I hate to think how much the finished model is going to cost, surely we/I deserve better. Or am I just unlucky in getting all the bits that need modifying to fit.
Graham27 attached the following image(s):
part14a.jpg
part14b.jpg
part14c.jpg
part14d.jpg
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