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Rank: Administration        Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,282 Points: 23,934 Location: East midlands
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Hi John,
I downloaded the original pic that appeared and have studied it. Now I`m no master model ship builder, so I cordially invite some of our much more experienced builders to pitch in and help John out. That said from my limited experience, what I see is a fairing error. Rib 11 has been over faired, hence the planks are not touching it. I will be looking for some diagrams to explain fairing for you, so don`t do anything for now until we can get you the best possible advise.
I have attached an edited form of your original Pic and these are my observations for anyone else to comment on.
Your fairing seems to be following the Red line, hence the plank does not touch rib 11. The yellow is nearer to where the plank should be going, but rib 11 will need packing out. The Blue line is nearer the mark as best as I can show on a Pic.
Now a question for you.
In the small Red circle, is that the pin holding the plank in place. It should be nearer to where the circle with the arrow is.
Now the rule of fairing as I remember it is as follows: The full width of the plank, should be in full contact with the width of the rib. I am going to endeavour to find some schematic drawings of what I mean, so for now just hold fire and we will see what we can find to help. Its not beyond redemption, so don`t panic.
Regards
delboy271155
(Derek) Admin delboy271155 attached the following image(s): COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,282 Points: 23,934 Location: East midlands
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Hi John, 
I have found a couple of pics on the forum that should explain fairing of the ribs a little better.
The first shows how the plank sits on the ribs without fairing. Note there is very limited contact to the ribs.
The second shows the ribs properly faired, so the plank is in full contact with the ribs. The RED lines indicate the angle of the pins so they attach to the meat of the rib in each instance.
You need to check the full length of each plank and move a test plank up and down the ribs as fairing is different for each plank across each rib. Watching the contact point on each rib shows how much fairing is needed.
Hope this helps.
Regards
delboy271155
(Derek) Admindelboy271155 attached the following image(s): COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/10/2015 Posts: 17 Points: 41 Location: Crawfordville, FL, US
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I see what you are talking about. I think I'll go ahead and remove the rest of the bow planks and start over. Hopefully I can reuse the planks and rebend slightly. I'll also pack rib 11 back out with some putty, cardstock etc.
Once the glue is dried, I've been taking the pins out. What you see there is the pin hole itself.
Thanks,
--John
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,282 Points: 23,934 Location: East midlands
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jmmx15 wrote:I see what you are talking about. I think I'll go ahead and remove the rest of the bow planks and start over. Hopefully I can reuse the planks and rebend slightly. I'll also pack rib 11 back out with some putty, cardstock etc.
Once the glue is dried, I've been taking the pins out. What you see there is the pin hole itself.
Thanks,
--John Hi John, Its very difficult to show how this should be done, but I`m sure you will get there if you understand what I`ve said so far. As for packing, I personally would not use putty, because as you press and pin against it, it will crumble and fall out. (Back to square one). The best would be thin strip wood in layers if needed to build up the widest points. Take care and plan ahead. When the fairing is correct the pinning becomes easier as you are pinning into solid wood, not through it at a bad angle. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) Admin COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,075 Points: 3,254 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Hi John,
The pics that Derek has put up showing faired ribs is exactly the way they should look if I was doing it.
I am no expert but all the preparation on the ribs really pays off at a later point in the build.
I also agree that you shouldn't use putty to fill out gaps between ribs and planking as it will just fall out again.
Laying a very thin strip of wood across the ribs is also a very good guide as to whether you have the correct profile.
Take off a little at a time with the sander stick. You can always take off the ribs but its harder to add on.
Thin strips of wood glued in place that can be sanded are definitely the answer.
Good luck. It's a wonderful ship to build.
Chris
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/10/2015 Posts: 17 Points: 41 Location: Crawfordville, FL, US
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Hi all,
I've got the upper part of the ship planked after redoing all the bow planks. I'm getting ready to flip the ship to start planking the bottom. Is there any technical reason that I can't line the gunports before starting to work on the bottom? It seems odd to do some of the bottom planking and then flip it over to line the ports.
Second question, I will need to putty in some areas as I'm lining the gunports. What US available wood putty or other options do you recommend?
Pictures to follow. Thanks in advance.
--John
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2010 Posts: 688 Points: 2,127 Location: Dorset
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It is now a few years since I completed my Victory build. I still however have all the magazines including the following plans in a PDF format should you need them when you get to the Masts/Rigging part of your build. Bowsprit-Spritsailyard, ForeMast plans MainMast plans and the Mizzen mast PM your Email address should you need them and I will forward them to you Enjoy your build Gil Shapley Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
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