Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

clear coat Options
Loonyllamas
#1 Posted : 21 October 2011 00:21:34

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
Need help

Ive put on carbonfibre decal the front wing , but I keep getting like air bubbles in the finish. Any ideas the front wheel assembles went fine..
Loonyllamas
#2 Posted : 21 October 2011 12:10:15

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
The bubble like craters are forming from the clear coat not the decal, I normally leave the parts to dry after the carbon is finished, then spray.

Had a PM question so posted it here.
Loonyllamas
#3 Posted : 22 October 2011 19:54:51

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
Wow 120 views and no reply Blink Any one ????
Skiddy
#4 Posted : 22 October 2011 20:09:06

Rank: Pro


Groups: Registered

Joined: 05/04/2011
Posts: 266
Points: 784
Location: Essexshire
Loonyllamas wrote:
Wow 120 views and no reply Blink Any one ????



121 and ain't got a clue mate.... Warty will be along shortly
SennaMentalMe
#5 Posted : 22 October 2011 20:24:12

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
Loonyllamas wrote:
The bubble like craters are forming from the clear coat not the decal, I normally leave the parts to dry after the carbon is finished, then spray.

Had a PM question so posted it here.


BigGrin Hi mate,

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the clearcoat is adversely reacting with the chemical composition of the decal or even the ABS plastic beneath which would release tiny gas bubbles as it reacts and then the top layer of the bubble would 'pop' so to speak, BUT, if the clear coat is a fairly quick drying type the surface where the bubble was wouldn't have time to flatten out evenly before it set too hard to do so, thus leaving a 'crater' ?? Is the clear coat an Acrylic based product or Cellulose based and how quickly does it dry and also, is the 'cratering' only present over the decalled part or the whole wing including the painted parts ?? If it is Cellulose based then it is highly likely that it will be reacting with the ABS as Cellulose is quite an aggressive solvent and can melt plastic quite easily. Hope that helps ??

Regards ... Kev. BigGrin
Warthog
#6 Posted : 22 October 2011 22:01:38

Rank: Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: registriert, Registered

Joined: 20/03/2011
Posts: 2,356
Points: 7,122
Location: UK
I'm here lol

Ok by the sounds of it when you say your doing the front wing its because your putting the decal onto the "Rough carbon effect" on the lower side of the wing.. you will get air trapped under this unless your using a decal softner.. The best way to do it is sand the effect off..

Hope i'm on the right track?

Spence
Loonyllamas
#7 Posted : 23 October 2011 10:33:10

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
Using Micro Sol decal softner & halfords clear coat, Then allowing it to dry over night. Ive already finished the front wheel assemble and cleared it , looks great. So took the plunge to do the front wing. Used same process but all parts have had this bubble type effect or cratering. I've just sanded the clear and will try again Crying
SennaMentalMe
#8 Posted : 23 October 2011 11:17:58

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
Loonyllamas wrote:
Using Micro Sol decal softner & halfords clear coat, Then allowing it to dry over night. Ive already finished the front wheel assemble and cleared it , looks great. So took the plunge to do the front wing. Used same process but all parts have had this bubble type effect or cratering. I've just sanded the clear and will try again Crying


BigGrin Hi mate,

I've been doing some digging on the subject of lacquers and have found this:

http://www.carpaintdepot.../basf/Paint_Defects.pdf

Since it is all about the use of lacquers and paints for spraying cars as opposed to the lacquers used on wood, which are different chemically, it should be very relevant to what you are doing and you say you are using Halfords Lacquer, which is intended for cars though many use it on models.

If you scroll down through the list of various problems associated with this type of lacquer/paint you will find a section that deals with 'Cratering' which you say is your problem ?? Having read the stuff myself I would say that you maybe need to make sure that your surface that needs to be lacquered is free of dust, oil, solvents, etc. and needs to be thoroughly cleaned before you spray. Are you using any Lint -Free gloves when handling the parts or just bare hands ?? If not I would advise you to always use gloves when handling them and clean the parts well, as a lot of natural oils can be left by your fingerprints which, if not cleaned off can then cause this cratering when oversprayed with the lacquer ?? If you are using rubber gloves it could be that they have a silicone content to the rubber which according to the website, is the worst thing you could use as the silicone will definitely cause the cratering !! It could also be the case that the lacquer is reacting with the solvent in the 'Micro-Sol' Decal solution, so I would at least give the parts a wipe over with a dampened cloth to remove any solvent residue on the surface ??

You might find that by gently sanding (or flatting) back the lacquer you have already sprayed, then thoroughly cleaning it, and then spraying a fairly thin coat of fresh lacquer over the top will solve the problem, as the 'New' lacquer shouldn't react with the older hardened coat, PROVIDED you have cleaned the parts thoroughly after sanding with warm soapy water ?? Spraying 'thick' coats of the lacquer should always be avoided as that can also cause cratering according to the website, so several thin coats would be best methinks ??

Hope that helps ??ThumpUp

Regards ... Kev. BigGrin


Loonyllamas
#9 Posted : 24 October 2011 12:53:49

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
ARRRRH !! even after a sanding the body craters are still there Cursing.

Only used Halfords as Warty advised on he's build, not using rubber gloves either.. On my 3 replacment issues 1&2 Angry

Don't no what to do next, other then try another can of paint in case its faulty. It does look like a silicone effect tho, as the clear lands you can see them starting to form the craters but you would think after sanding the dam thing and re-spraying it would be ok.
Warthog
#10 Posted : 24 October 2011 14:11:05

Rank: Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: registriert, Registered

Joined: 20/03/2011
Posts: 2,356
Points: 7,122
Location: UK
Can you post some pictures up? It sounds like there is something in the air or something that is getting on the wing to disperse the lacquer..
Loonyllamas
#11 Posted : 24 October 2011 17:43:09

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,827
Points: -13,348
I'll take some later, just dont understand. Like I said the front wheel assemble went without a hitch and looks cool.

Thanks for the input guysBigGrin
Users browsing this topic
Guest (2)
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.294 seconds.
DeAgostini