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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 202 Points: 528 Location: Bedfordshire
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Hi all have not been on for some time now hope you all had a nice Christmas and a good New Year Ref the brass wire  for the deadeyes in the chainwales is anyone having a problem with the wire snapping when trying to twist it to shape ? any hints gratefully received 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Allan!  I had the same problem here is the section from my diary with the step by step method I used to solve it using 0.6mm gold plated eyepins used for earrings from a craft shop instead of brass wire. Link is below:- http://forum.model-space...s&m=34037#post34037
I hope this helps mate! Darron
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Allan wrote:Hi all have not been on for some time now hope you all had a nice Christmas and a good New Year Ref the brass wire for the deadeyes in the chainwales is anyone having a problem with the wire snapping when trying to twist it to shape ? any hints gratefully received Hi Allan I have had no problems since I started to aneal each piece I use. I carefully and safely heat it up red hot then leave it to naturally air cool. I used to use a ciggy lighter but have now got a small butain blow torch First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 202 Points: 528 Location: Bedfordshire
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Hi Darren thanks for that great tip  and all the other tips on your build Allan
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Son of Bulwark wrote:Hi Allan! I had the same problem here is the section from my diary with the step by step method I used to solve it using 0.6mm gold plated eyepins used for earrings from a craft shop instead of brass wire. Link is below:- http://forum.model-space...s&m=34037#post34037
I hope this helps mate! Darron Thanks for that excellent tip Darron. Fortunately, I didn't have to embarass myself in a shop full of ladies to find what was required - my partner used to make ear-rings as a hobby so she had several hundred in her tool box. As they are not twisted or soldered in your solution, do you think there's a possibility of them opening up or stretching when the tension from the shrouds is applied? Or does the slot in the channels make for a good tight fit anyway? Or, am I just worrying un-necessarily here? Thanks again happy building David
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi David! You asked:- Quote:As they are not twisted or soldered in your solution, do you think there's a possibility of them opening up or stretching when the tension from the shrouds is applied? Or does the slot in the channels make for a good tight fit anyway? The gold plated wire used for making earrings is 0.6mm which is strong and holds its shape well, the wire is cut so that it is in the centre of the slot in the chainwale. By putting superglue in the slot first then push fit the blocks wire into the slot it held tight as the wire pushes against the sides of the slot. You can add extra superglue over the top of the wire to give a better hold before adding the cap of 1mm x 3mm wood.  I can tell you that the wire will not stretch under the tension of the shrouds, the wood will snap off before any problem with the wire. You might have a problem of the wire opening up if you cut the wire so that it was outside the slot, but as you would want the joint hidden check before you cut the extra wire off. If you want to solder the joints together before adding them to the chainwale then that would be ok! you might have to enlarge the slots a little due to the solder. I hope that answers you question mate! Good luck with whatever method you choose to use. Darron
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Thanks Darron,
your explanation of the process has now dispelled my concerns. Your 'superglue in the slots' technique is one I think I'll go with when I get to that stage of the build. I've managed to get quite a bit behind in the build now as I took ages to make up my mind how to finish the hull below the waterline. Would really have liked to 'copper tile' it, but eventually gave in to my partner who kept saying it would "look better" if it were stained and varnished. I must admit in hindsight that she was probably right now that I've completed the task and attached the rudder.
Anyway, sorry to waffle on, thanks again for your helpful advice.
Happy building
David
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