Stage 22 - Contains the starboard stern deck plate, planking and an anti-aircraft gun and platform.

This is a repeat of the stage 21 planking and stern port deck plate installation, therefore I am not going to repeat the process here.

Assemble and paint the anti-aircraft gun as before and carefully store.

Future stages:

Stage 23 - Contains planks, chamfered moulding, boat (hull & deck), rails and diecast parts.

Stage 24 - Contains short & long planks, chamfered moulding, anti-aircraft gun parts and platform.

Stage 25 - Stern frames x3, planks and a Nakajima B5N aircraft kit.

Stage 26 - Stern frames, planks and decal sheet.

Stage 24 - Contains short & long planks, chamfered moulding, anti-aircraft gun parts and platform.

Ensure that you choose the right planks, the long planks are thinner than the shorter planks.

The hull planking in stage 24 is identical to stage 23, (though I left steps 8-15 of 24 - the stern underside planking to be completed at this stage after step 10 has been completed.

After planking the side of the hull, I removed the hull framework from the build board and turned it upside down, and then referred to steps 8 to 15 of stage 23 in conjunction with steps 11 to 19 of stage 24 which are a repeat.

Place a long plank along side the central keel plate, shape its end to match with the profile of the hull base plate, and then cut the plank to length so that it overhangs frame 26 by 1mm, glue the plank in place and then repeat the process with a further two planks, then repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Test fit a long plank so that it runs from frame 23a so that it meets with the ed of the previous plank, then cut it to length so that it overhangs frame 26 by 1mm.The opposite end will need to be shaped as shown in the step inset diagram, so that its end sits under the corner of the base plate. Glue the plank in place and repeat on the opposite side of the hull.
You can now fill the remaining gap between the plank just laid and the previously laid planks, cut and shape the planks to fit and glue into place.

Shape a long plank to fit in the gap between the base of frames 21 to 23, you will need to chamfer the edge of the plank as shown in the inset step, glue it into place and repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Finally shape a long plank to fit in the gap between the planks at the stern so that it runs from frame 22 to 1mm past the end of frame 26, you'll need to taper its end for it to fit, glue in place and repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Assemble the anti-aircraft gun and platform, and paint as before.

Future stages:

Stage 25 - Stern frames x3, planks and a Nakajima B5N aircraft kit.

Stage 26 - Stern frames, planks and decal sheet.

Stage 27 - Bow hangar flooring and boat.

Stage 28 - Central hangar flooring and two Aichi D3A aircraft kits.

Stage 26 - Stern frames, planks and decal sheet.

Fill the starboard stern planking gaps and fit the stern frames as per the previous build sequence.

A decal set and steps are provided to finish three of the Nakajima B5N aircraft, though I will leave the finishing of the aircraft until all aircraft are to hand.

Future stages:

Stage 27 - Bow hangar flooring and boat.

Stage 28 - Central hangar flooring and two Aichi D3A aircraft kits.

Stage 27 - Contains the bow hangar deck and a ships boat.

Start by making two notches into the top of frame 10, (2mm deep, 1mm wide)., this is to accommodate the forward end of the bow hanger deck at the correct level.

Use a sanding block to level and sand smooth the top of the hull planking sit it sits level with frames 12-19.

Fit the bow hangar deck onto the frame projections ensuring that the deck is the right way round as highlighted in the steps.
You will most likely need to make some adjustments to the frame projections to get the deck to seat properly, and you may want to wait until you have to hand the aft three deck sections so that all the hangar decks can be married together.
I found that the triangulated part of the forward hangar deck was slightly too wide, thus forcing the two former pieces (situated either side) slightly apart at the front, I'll leave this adjustment for now.
Do not glue any of the hangar decks in place just yet.

The steps say to increase the strength of the hull by applying an epoxy adhesive to the inside surface of the hull planking, and is best applied and left to fully cure before you start the shaping of the outer hull.

Fit the stern block and if necessary sand the mating side to obtain a snug fit, then glue it in place.

The corners of the bottom of the hull need to be sanded to a curve., draw a smooth curved line around the base of the hull at the edge distances shown in the steps/diagram, and then shape accordingly., the profiling and sanding of the hull sides will be done later on.

Ships boat - Remove any burrs from the boat and oars, then prime and paint as before.

Future stages:
Stage 28 - Contains the central hangar flooring and two Aichi D3A aircraft kits.

Stage 29 - Contains the stern hangar floor and decal sheet

Stage 30 - Contains the display plinth

Stage 31 - Contains dowel, propellers& shafts, castings, long & short bilge keel strips