Issue 96 - Contains thread, wriggles, deadeyes, heart blocks & blocks., and has instructions for lashing the top mast shrouds, fitting the boomkins, constructing the gangboard, fitting the mainstay attachments and fitting the wriggles.

Lashing the topmast shrouds - This is very similar to tensioning the lower shrouds - except that as there will be no need to adjust the topmast shrouds, you can lash the lanyards permanently.

Cut 32 lengths of 0.25mm natural thread, each 25cms long. Tie a knot in one end, as previously done and rub some PVA into the other end to stiffen it.
Start with the foremast, thread the deadeyes using the technique described in issue 95. Tighten the lanyards so the deadeyes form a straight line, then seal the knot at the rear but don't trim the remaining lanyard tail yet.
Take the remaining tail and wind it around the shroud three times, then secure it with a half-hitch. Finally, seal the thread and trim the excess.

Repeat the process for the main and mizzen topmast shrouds - The main mast is identical to the foremast and use the same technique on the four shrouds of the mizzen mast.

Fitting the boomkins - Retrieve the two boomkins made in issue 91.

If necessary, sand the slots of of the beakhead so that the boomkins can sit in their recesses properly.

Glue the boomkins in place using superglue, align the end of each boomkin just below the shaped top of the knighthead, noting that the boomkin block should face downwards.

Tip - Loop thread through the 4 blocks attached to the bowsprit knightheads, which will make it easier to retrieve the blocks after the gangboard is permanently fitted.

Before adding the beakhead netting, I chose to make and trial fit the gangboard as noted in the steps, (the step photos of fitting the gangboard do not show the netting having been fitted at this point).

Constructing the gangboard - Retrieve the grating strips supplied with issue 89 and the gangboard frame provided with issue 90.

Construct two gratings - One should be 8 strips wide by 10 strips long, and the second should be 7 strips square, then paint with diluted PVA to set them.

Take the gangboard frame and place over the two gratings, then draw round the inside edge to mark the grating sizes, then cut the gratings to size.
Try the gangboard frame in place, you may need to shorten the front of the frame a little so that it ends flush with the gangboard support bracket which sits either side of the bowsprit.

For the natural finish, stain the frame dark oak, then glue the grating's into the frame, and for the painted finish, paint the entire gangboard black.

Beakhead netting - Take the netting provided in issue 89, then cut a piece 20mm wide and just long enough to fit between the eyebolt on the stem and on the roundhouse.

Thread the long edge of the netting onto a length of 0.15mm black thread, then tie each end of the thread to the two eyebolts., seal the knots with diluted PVA and trim the ends.
Now trim the bottom of the net so that it hangs behind the beakhead rail, and fits over the boomkin, tuck the netting behind the beakhead rail and secure with some diluted PVA.

Repeat the net fitting process at the opposite side of the model.

Fitting the main stay attachments - Carefully follow the magazine steps for the threading of the mainstay attachments, the process is as follows.
Cut two lengths of 0.8mm black thread, each 500mm long. Stiffen one end of each with PVA, then thread the first pieces down the grating alongside the rear gammoning thread.

Feed the thread through the hole in the stem just behind the gammoning, then feed the thread back up the other side of the gammoning.
Pull the two ends of the thread level with each other and lead them between the knightheads and over the top of the beakhead bulkhead.

Feed the second length of thread down through the hole between the two gammonings. The main stay preventer is secured under the bowsprit rather than through the stem. Feed the end between the beakhead rails so that it is free to pull up against the bottom of the bowsprit.
Lead the thread up through the corresponding hole in the grating on the other side of the model.

Temporarily fit the gangboard, feeding the threads up through the holes in grating as shown, then glue the gangboard in place with supeglue, ensuring it is square and central.

Tie a 7mm heart block to one of the end of the thread using twp half-hitches, leaving a tail of about 20mm.

Line up these three pieces of thread - The threads on each side of the knot, plus the end that comes up the other hole in the grating - They need to be joined with a blind binding.
The binding needs to end close to the grating, this can be a little tricky to do, so you can make the binding further away, then hold the longest tail and slide the binding down the thread until the bottom of the block is about 20mm from the grating.
After adjusting the position of the binding, seal it well with diluted PVA and trim the ends.

Repeat the process to add a 7mm heart block and binding to the second thread.

Fitting the wriggles - Take the wriggles supplied in this issue and retrieve those from issues 42 and 91, prime them with metal primer and paint them black - For the painted version some of the aft wriggles will need to be painted yellow ochre which will be dictated by your positioning of the yellow stripe.

The position of the wriggles is shown on pages 10/11 of issue 42, glue the first wriggles in place in the recesses already cut in the wale.
Where the wale curves away from the gun ports, set the bases of the wriggles level with the top of the gun port frame.

For the painted finish, you will need to touch in some of the black wriggles with yellow ochre to match the line of the yellow stripe.

Repeat the wriggle fitting on the opposite side of the hull.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 97 - Contains gun port hinges, threads, wood strips & a heart block., and has instructions for rigging the main stay and preventer, rigging the fore stay and preventer, adding the snaking to the stays, rigging the mizzen preventer and fitting the gun port lids.

Issue 98 - Contains the first of Victory's sails - the main stay sail, main topmast sail., the parts pack also includes thread, dummy gun barrels, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for the main top mast main stay and preventer, mizzen topmast stay, main top gallant stay, admirals lantern, mizzen top gallant stay and the hanging of the main staysail.
Note - If you aren't fitting the sails immediately, you should take time to carefully label them as you receive them until you are ready to fit them.
If you are following the ‘bare spars’ version of the model, omit ALL the steps on pages 12 & 13, as none of the staysail rigging applies to this version. (This isn’t true of all the sails as, in some cases, the same rigging lines are used to attach the spars, whether or not sails are being fitted.)
The 'official' build has followed the route of 'bare spars' rigging, and therefore will not incorporate sails, though instructions are provided within the magazines for those who opted to incorporate sails.

Issue 99 - Contains the main and mizzen topgallant staysails, dummy gun barrels, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for hanging the main topmast staysail, fitting the fore topmast stay and preventer and fitting the fore topgallant & flagstaff stays.

Issue 100 - Contains the mizzen staysail and topmast staysail, dummy gun barrels, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for the fitting of the small dummy gun barrels, hanging the mizzen stay sail, hanging the mizzen topmast staysail and adding the fore, main & mizzen mast top ropes.

Issue 98 - Contains the main stay sail & main topmast sail, thread, dummy gun barrels, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for fitting the main top mast main stay and preventer, mizzen topmast stay, main top gallant stay, the admirals lantern, mizzen top gallant stay and the hanging of the main staysail.

The 'official' build has followed the route of 'bare spars' rigging, and therefore its build will not incorporate sails, though instructions are provided within the magazines for the hanging of all the sails.

This issue also contains tips about aging the sails.

Note - If you aren't fitting the sails immediately, you should take time to carefully label them as you receive them (and all those you receive in future issues) until you are ready to fit them.

A lettered photo of the model across pages 10/11 shows the rigging lines in this stage of the build, the rigging, I have only shown images of the end result, the detail of the rigging is best followed from the magazine photos.

Main topmast stay and preventer - Lines A & B: Using 0.5mm black thread, make an eye (as on the mizzen stay). Feed the eye down through the heart block beneath the fore top. Take it between the catharpins and use the wire jig to hook it to the centre left eyebolt on the deck at the base of the mast (where it will be tied later).
Make sure the line doesn't pull against the catharpins (the best position may vary to suit your model). Loosely tie the other end of the line around the main mast cross trees.

Fit the preventer in the same way, but take it through the top heart block and down to the centre right eyebolt. Loosely tie the other end of the line around the main mast cross trees. The thread passes between the middle and aft cross tree arms.

Use 25cm lengths of 0.25mm natural thread to secure both stays to the eyebolts, using the technique described in issue 97 for the mizzen stays.

Mizzen topmast stay - Line C: Using 0.5mm thread, tie one end around the main mast, just below the hounds, and tie the other end around the mizzen cross trees under a moderate tension - It should not pull the mizzen forward by more than a couple of millimetres.

Main topgallant stay - Line D: Using 0.25mm black thread, stiffen the end with PVA and then feed it through the block at the back of the fore mast cap.
For clarity, step 2 of the steps shows using cream thread though black should be used - Tie the end around both fore top tressle trees.
Tie the stay around the mast just above the octagonal collar, but do not trim the end or seal the knot yet as you may need to adjust the tension later on.

Admiral's lantern - Retrieve one of the small lanterns assembled in issue 94.
Drill a 1.5mm hole in the back of the main top, just to one side of the stay - Note that the hole is drilled at a slight angle.
Fix the lantern into the hole with superglue. Angle the lantern backwards slightly, leaving a gap of 10mm between the lantern and the handrail.

Mizzen topgallant stay - Line E: Using 0.25mm black thread, feed the end through the hole in the heart block on top of the main mast cap. Then tie it around the tressle trees in the same way as you did the main topgallant stay.
Tie the stay around the mast just above the octagonal collar, but do not trim the end or seal the knot yet as you may need to adjust the tension later on.

Hanging of the main staysail - If you are following the ‘bare spars’ version of the model, omit all of the steps on pages 12 & 13, as none of the staysail rigging applies to this version.
This isn’t true of all the sails as, in some cases, the same rigging lines are used to attach the spars, whether or not sails are being fitted.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 99 - Contains the main and mizzen topgallant staysail's, dummy guns, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for hanging the main topmast staysail, fitting the fore topmast stay and preventer and fitting the fore topgallant & flagstaff stays.

Issue 100 - Contains the mizzen staysail and topmast staysail, dummy guns, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for the fitting of the small dummy gun barrels, hanging the mizzen stay sail, hanging the mizzen topmast staysail and adding the fore, main & mizzen mast top ropes.

Issue 101 - Contains ratline plans, flying jib & jib sails, dummy 12-pounder guns, brass rings and a block., and has instructions for adding the catharpins to the topmast shrouds, adding the topgallant shrouds, and the fitting of the ratlines to all three masts.

Issue 102 - Contains the mizzen sail, assorted blocks, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for fitting the foremast back stays, mizzen mast back stays, fitting the 'last centreline' stays and rigging the main topgallant staysail.

Issue 100 - Contains the mizzen and topmast staysails, dummy gun barrels, brass rings & blocks., and has instructions for the fitting of the small dummy gun barrels, hanging the mizzen and topmast stay sails, and adding the fore, main & mizzen mast top ropes.

Fitting the small dummy gun barrels - If not already done, you'll need to drill the centre of each of the three gun ports behind the mizzen shrouds using a 2mm bit.
Use such as a cocktail stick or blunt cross-stitch needle to locate the barrels into each of the three gun ports. Place a drop of superglue onto the spigot and insert the barrel into one of the holes you have already drilled.
Repeat for all six dummy gun barrels, three on each side of the hull.

Hanging the mizzen and topmast staysails - Omit all of the steps on pages 10 & 11 if you are building the 'bare spars' version.

Mast top-ropes - There are three ropes on each mast, the two top-ropes were used to haul the topmast up through the mast cap. The remaining rope was used to pull the topgallant up through the topmast cap.
It is difficult to make out these ropes out in photos, therefore carefully follow the steps for each mast.

Foremast top-ropes - Cut two lengths of 0.25mm natural thread, each 55cm long, and stiffen one end of each. Tie one of the threads to the forward eye on the left side of the foremast cap, and then feed the thread through the lower hole on the fore topmast.
Take the thread up the other side of the mast and through the single block, then feed the end down through the fore top to the bottom of the fore mast.

Feed the thread through the inner starboard slot in the aft pinrail post and secure it to the top of the pinrail post with two half-hitches.

Fit the second top-rope in a similar way. tie it to the opposite eye on the fore mast cap, then through the same hole as the first rope, and through the block on the opposite side of the foremast cap. Tie it off in the same way, this time going through the port pinrail post.

Add the topgallant mast rope in a similar way. Tie a 70cm length of thread to the right eye on the fore topmast cap. Take it through the hole in the bottom of the topgallant, and through the block on the left side.

Main mast top-ropes - Fit the three main mast top-ropes in the same way as the fore mast, only this time the two top-rope lengths are 65cm long, and the topgallant rope is 80cm long.

Mizzen mast top-ropes - The rigging is similar to that of the the main and fore masts, only this time the two top-rope lengths are 50cm long, and the eyes are both on the front of the cap, and the two blocks are in the middle of the cap, and tie-off to the aft-but-one deck eyebolts. The topgallant rope is 60cm long, and tie-off to the centre one of the five eyebolts on the portside.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 101 - Contains ratline plans, flying jib & jib sails, dummy 12-pounder gun barrels, brass rings and a block., and has instructions for adding the catharpins to the topmast shrouds, adding the topgallant shrouds, and the fitting of the ratlines to all three masts.

Issue 102 - Contains the mizzen sail, assorted blocks, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for fitting the fore mast back stays, mizzen mast back stays, fitting the 'last centreline' stays and rigging the main topgallant staysail

Issue 103 - Contains the spritsail, 12 & 32-pounder dummy gun barrels, blocks, thread, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for rigging the mizzen topgallant staysail, rigging the jib & flying jib, fitting the stern lanterns, rigging the mizzen booms and rigging the mizzen.

Issue 104 - Contains the sprit topsail, dummy guns, blocks, cleats, brass rings & pins, and has instructions for rigging the bobstays, rigging the martingales, and preparing the spritsail yards & sails.