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John's Shambles Options
CMB
#121 Posted : 23 February 2012 00:32:59

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Hi John,
Happy to have been of some help re recent pictures of the mast assembly in my build diary.
Regards
CMBBigGrin
z8000783
#122 Posted : 23 February 2012 07:31:16

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Indeed a great innovation and looking forward to working on them again soon.

Thanks Bob.

John
z8000783
#123 Posted : 04 March 2012 12:12:34

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Back in the UK for a week and I am missing her already, just running my fingers along the hull really gave me a buzz. Still at least I have a stack of magazines to read and more to come. I will miss those when they stop.

So I had a chance to stick some copper tiles onto a bit of old wood and the effect was stunning. Thanks for you helpful advice guys, I think that’s the way I’ll go now.

And I have a question of course. I know one member painted the hull first (copper colour I believe), is that a good idea for the laying on of contact adhesive? Also should I use a sanding sealer first. Either, both or none is the question I guess.

I bought some EVO-STIK instant contact adhesive but it seemed to dry very quickly and I don’t think I will get many tiles on each time I use it. Should I go for something else?



Thanks as ever, guys.

Best wishes, John
karl1113
#124 Posted : 04 March 2012 12:30:54

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hi john,the contact adhesive,it works whilst it is dry,you have to cover both surfaces with it,be warned it is instant,that is why it is called contact adhesive.their are brands that cure more slowly, I believe son of bulwark uses this.I personally use gel superglue in very small quantities it give you time to slide tiles around a bit.
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farrabass
#125 Posted : 04 March 2012 13:26:57

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Of course most people will have different ways of approaching the gluing of the tiles, all I can advise on is the way that I did mine.
I was one of the builders that painted the hull copper first!
I also used contact adhesive (patto) from Lidl, this works very well. The way to go is to apply a small smear of glue to the hull, enough for about four tiles and press the tiles directly on top of the glue, there is quite a short working time to slide the tile into position before the glue dries too much,any excess from the tiles that hve just been laid can be scraped off with a small scrap of planking. Repeat the process with another four tiles and then fix the next four at the opposite end to which the previous four where glued etc'.
Some glue will squeeze between the tiles and sit on top, this can be easily removed after it has nearly fully cured, again use a clean bit of wood to gently scrape the glue off. After three or four rows have been attached a small amount of solvent cleaner will take off any remaining glue residue, this is how I tiled my hull and it turned out not too bad for a first attempt.
Hope that is of some benefit to you Steve..
z8000783
#126 Posted : 06 March 2012 20:31:00

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Many thanks Karl, I guess I'll have to take my time and not think of it like laying bricks.

Also to Steve, yes I am following your build as well (I was just too lazy to double check that it was you who painted the hull first).

So to the question of sanding sealer, is it needed if I am tiling, would it be beneficial even it not necessary or do I simply not bother and lay the tiles straight onto to the bare wood?

Steve did you use sealer before you painted?

Thanks again guys.

John

BTW Dan Snow on now on Nelson's Navy.
z8000783
#127 Posted : 08 April 2012 12:40:10

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Just over a week to go and I am back with my lady (the other one).

First task will be coppering the hull I think.

Still interested to know if I should prepare the hull in any way (paint. sealer, whitewash...) or just glue and tile straight on to the bare planks.

Thanks guys, pics to come once I start and plenty of learning points (euphemism for mistakes) for those following I should think.

Many thanks

John
MWG
#128 Posted : 08 April 2012 14:55:50

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Hi John after my final sanding I have sealed the hull with sanding sealer ready for tileing but then it is my preferenceBigGrin Regards Mike
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

z8000783
#129 Posted : 13 April 2012 10:03:08

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Thanks Mike.

Would appreciate any other views on this before the adhesive hits the planks.

Thanks

John
Tomick
#130 Posted : 13 April 2012 10:25:24

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It depends on your chosen route for glue, contact adhesive will work okay applied directly to wood, though my preference would be to seal with sanding sealer, and use superglue gel of a type which is resistant to shock, such as Loctite ultra gel
Son of Bulwark
#131 Posted : 13 April 2012 10:46:11

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Hi John! Cool

Evo-stik Timebond Adjustable Contact Adhesive tube form is best as you can use the end of the tube to apply the glue, it can be used like normal contact adhesive or using the quick use option the instructions from the product is below, the sections in brackets are the steps for fitting the tiles:-

When at least one material is porous you can use the following method, however materials may need holding together for a few minutes until the bond forms (Don’t seal or paint the hull you need one surface porous for this method to work).

1. Apply a thin coat of Evo-stik Timebond to the least porous surface and press the surfaces together immediately (apply a coat of glue to the back of a tile press in place, as it is small you don't need to hold the tile, as the glue is wet you can position the tiles easily, wipe off any excess glue then add some more tiles).

2. Hold together for a few minutes to allow the bond to form (wait 5 minutes then roll over the tiles with a wooden roller).

3. Do not disturb or test the bond for 24 hours to allow the adhesive to achieve full strength (wait 24 hours then clean off any glue that has squeezed through the tiles).

The produces used in this method are:-


Darron
MWG
#132 Posted : 13 April 2012 11:03:38

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Hi John,

During my discussions with Jotika I asked this very question and they Recommend sealing the Hull and applying the Tiles with super glue gel, just one spot on the rear does it, no need to wipe off any excess, job done.
I also noticed another member of the forum has used PVA glue to fix the tiles, but at the end of the day it is down to personal preferenceBigGrin Regards Mike
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

z8000783
#133 Posted : 23 April 2012 08:38:32

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Hi Guys

Back in the thick of it again and many thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

Question time again though and once again all thoughts welcome.

I will be coppering early compared to the instructions so that I won't have the turn the ship over any more once the lower hull is all complete. Consequently I have not yet fitted the lower whales.

The instructions suggest setting the water line a little below the lower whale which seems a good idea.

I can get the measurements of its position from the bow stem but does the whale run straight back to stern at the water level? From the pictures it appears to rise as it moves towards the gallery, is that correct and therefore my mark for the waterline should ignore the whales at this point?

Hope that clear.

Thanks again

John
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#134 Posted : 23 April 2012 14:17:15

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Yes they curve gently upwards towards the stern. ignore them for your waterline mark.
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
z8000783
#135 Posted : 15 June 2012 14:39:10

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I was going to wait until I had finished the coppering before posting but I ran into some problems so I thought this might assist those following.

Ship was ready so I applied a coat of sanding sealer first. Not sure why but in the end but I assumed it could do any harm. Used the magnifying stand to mark the water-line. Interestingly I have used the stand more than the lens apart from repairing my glasses.



And so on with the first layer around the water-line. Took a while to get used to doing this and I may even remove this layer and do it again when I have finished. Also purchased a wallpaper roller which was perfect for flattening the keel tiles.



It is amazing how when you lay 7 or 8 tiles perfectly, looking at them later show a gap, where from I know not since the others are still in place. Must be the copper-fairies I guess. Problem is the wood is white underneath and so had to touch up the gaps with copper paint. I have now painted the hull completely and I’m hoping it won’t affect the adhesive too much.

Must also say the paint brings out the shape of the hull perfectly – she is a truly beautiful ship.



I haven’t been to careful with the adhesive on the tiles but a cloth damped with white spirit when you have finished, brings them up again beautifully. Question now is whether to lacquer or allow to dull to a natural copper colour. Decisions, decisions. Time for a beer methinks.



And then I ran into trouble which has set me back a couple of weeks. I had laid full tiles for the second layer on the keel which only needed partial tiles for most of the length, with the aim of cutting them as per the instructions. However, this was a disaster. The tiles ripped and came off as I attempted to trim. I had a new blade in the knife but nothing worked. I tried repairing but in the end, I took them off and replaced most of them, cutting them to very slightly oversize and then filing them back flush. A much better option in the end.

Also the girls in the supermarket seem to have got used to me hanging round the nail care section, small nail scissors are ideal for trimming the tiles.



I am quite pleased with the look although it is by no means perfect and I might take a break for a bit and do some more on the masts now. Those pictures on the wall behind are from tom.ganc’s build which is my inspiration for this part.

John
MWG
#136 Posted : 15 June 2012 16:23:10

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Hi John well doneBigGrin its not easy but you should be really proud of yourselfBigGrin You are doing a great jobThumpUpRegards Mike
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

Tomick
#137 Posted : 15 June 2012 17:08:16

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Great start to what is a very tedious task, but the end result will be worth the effort Cool
z8000783
#138 Posted : 17 June 2012 08:15:57

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Thanks Tom and Mike. Looks like the tough bits are out of the way and plain sailing for a while.

John
farrabass
#139 Posted : 17 June 2012 12:10:16

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z8000783 wrote:
Thanks Tom and Mike. Looks like the tough bits are out of the way and plain sailing for a while.

John

Afraid not!!

Wait until you come to tile around the rear of the hull and the stern post, that is when the tough bit begins!
Nice going so far though.
It will all be worth it in the end, best of luck! Steve..
Jesus-Belzheim
#140 Posted : 17 June 2012 13:50:08

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Hi John
The start is looking very good ThumpUp
I still have this work ahead of me BigGrin
Kind regards
Peter BigGrin

HMS Victory 1:84 DeA
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