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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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San Felipe - 17th-century Spanish 104-gun Man of WarThe legendary San Felipe is typical of the largest warships built around the end of the 17th century to protect Spain's colonial interests in the Americas, and to safeguard the long and hazardous passage back to Spanish ports, her slim profile and widespread of sail bestowed great manoeuvrability and agility. Heavily armed and ornately finished, three-decker ships of the line such as this were symbols of the might of Spain and its ruling dynasty. The elaborate stern and deck details make the San Felipe a favourite amongst ship modellers. The Sane Felipe model:
1/84 scale - Finished model size: 63x32x83cms. The kit features a double plank-on-frame hull construction, plywood framework, pre-cut gun ports, burnished metal gun barrels, cannon carriages and gun port frames, cast metal transom detail, hardwood masts & spars, brass beakhead rails & fittings, blackened metal anchors, turned brass pillars, stitched sail set, silk screened flags, assorted rigging threads and a pin-pusher tool. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible. On sale here: https://www.deagostini.c...-models/san-felipe-ship
File Attachment(s): Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The official build diary will follow the format of the magazine steps, and will not include any enhancement to the base magazine build. You are of course free to build, enhance and finish the model how you so choose. Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.
Parts set 1 contains the bow false keel, frame #2, bow half deck, deck planks and two anchors.
Start by gently sanding any rough edges from the false keel and frame, taking care not to alter the shape, then number the frame with a pencil.
Test fit frame #2 into the second slot of the keel and push it down until it stops, carefully remove the frame, apply PVA wood glue to the keel slot and down both sides and also into the slot of the frame.
Then set frame #2 into the second keel slot ensuring that is seated fully within the slot and use a set square to check that the keel and frame are set at right angles to each other.
Decking - Cut the deck planks to a length of 70mm, you'll get two lengths from each strip with a little left over.
Create the caulking - Carefully blacken one edge and one end of the planks using a pencil or black marker pen, (test on a scrap first).
Glue the planks onto the deck half in a half stagger pattern until you've completed the entire width of the half deck (covering all the cutouts) as shown in step i.
Once the glue is dry, turn over the deck and cut away any planks which extend past the deck edge, including over the large cut-out and the three large frame slots in the deck - DO NOT cut-away the planking which covers the small deck slot as shown at step h.
Simulate planking nails, use a pencil to mark two points either side of where two planks butt end to end.
Anchor - Apply a drop of superglue to the square end section of the anchor shaft, and insert into the anchor stock so they sit at right angles, then repeat with the other anchor and carefully store both.
Future parts sets:
Parts 2 - Contains frames 1 & 3, bow half deck and deck planking.
Parts 3 - Contains frame 4, false keel central section, bowsprit deck & wood strips.
Parts 4 - Contains frames 5 & 6, lower deck section and wood strips.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts set 2 - Contains frames 1 & 3, bow half deck and deck planking. Start by smoothing any edge splinters from both frames with sandpaper, then test fit frames #1 and #3 into their corresponding slots. When happy with the fit remove both and glue them into place ensuring that both are set at 90 degrees to the keel and are fully seated in the slots. The laying of bow deck planking on the opposite deck half is a repeat of the previous procedure, ensure that both halves of the deck align and that the planking pattern is continued - DO NOT glue the deck halves together. That's it for this week. Future parts sets: Parts 3 - Contains frame 4, false keel central section, bowsprit deck & wood strips. Parts 4 - Contains frames 5 & 6, lower deck section and wood strips. Parts 5 - Contains the forecastle deck, false keel reinforcements, planks and wood strip, Parts 6 - Contains Frames 7 & 8 and false keel reinforcements. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 3 - Contains frame #4, false keel central section, bowsprit deck and wood strip. Started by gluing a keel reinforcing plate to the keel, ensure that its top is flush with the keel top, and that any excess glue is removed from the keel frame slot, then add the second keel reinforcing plate in the same way and clamp them together, again remove any excess glue from the gap between the reinforcing plates (which may obscure the seating of the next frame/keel section), then set aside to allow the glue to fully set. Apply glue to the corresponding end of the next false keel section, and slide it between the reinforcing plates. Ensure that the top of the keel is level with the previous keel section, which can be done by laying on a flat surface, then clamp the reinforcing plates and set aside for the glue to fully set. Add frame 4 to the corresponding slot in the keel, ensuring that it is fully seated and is set square to the keel. Glue the bow deck section in place at the bow. Take the 5x5mm wood strip, position it across the deck beam support gap of frame #2, so that when the beam is cut the piece fits snugly across the span. Repeat the process lower down the frame to make the lower deck beam. Glue the deck beams in place and carefully store the remaining 5x5mm strip. That's it for this week. Future parts sets:Parts 4 - Contains frames 5 & 6, lower deck section and wood strips. Parts 5 - Contains the forecastle deck, false keel reinforcements, planks and wood strip, Parts 6 - Contains Frames 7 & 8 and false keel reinforcements. Parts 7 - Contains frame 9 and the stern false keel. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 4 - Contains frames 5 & 6, lower deck and deck support beams. Glue frames 5 & 6 into the false keel ensuring both are fully seated and set at a right angle to the keel. Test-fit the lower deck upon the frames and keel., you may need to sand the odd slot for a snug fit, then glue the deck in place. Cut deck support beams from the 5x5mm strip to suit the span of frames 3 to 6 and glue into place - Do not add upper beams to frames 3 & 4. Test fit the bow deck halves onto the lower beams of frames 2-6, when happy with the fit glue them in place ensuring that the deck halves are seated upon the deck support beams and between the slot span of each frame. Carefully store the remaining 5x5mm beam. That's it for this week. Future parts sets: Parts 5 - Contains the forecastle deck, false keel reinforcements, deck planks and a wood strip. Parts 6 - Contains Frames 7 & 8 and false keel reinforcements x2. Parts 7 - Contains frame 9 and the stern false keel. Parts 8 - Contains the lower deck, frame 10 wood strips and a deck beam strip. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 5 - Contains the forecastle deck, false keel reinforcements, planks and wood strip, Following the same procedure as before, fit the 5x5mm deck support beams to frames 3 & 4. Following the same procedure as before, plank the forecastle deck section making sure that you plank across the frame slots. Test fit the deck, and when happy with the fit glue it in place. Glue the bow and keel reinforcements in place. Future parts sets: Parts 6 - Contains Frames 7 & 8 and false keel reinforcements. Parts 7 - Contains frame 9 and the stern false keel. Parts 8 - Contains the lower deck, frame 10 wood strips and a beam strip. Parts 9 - Contains a deck section, frame 11 and deck planks. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 6 - Contains Frames 7 & 8 and keel reinforcements. Install frames #7 & #8 into the keel, ensuring both are set square to the keel and fully seated into their slots. Glue one of the keel reinforcements into place, ensure that its upper edge is aligned with the keel top and that it does not obstruct the slot of where frame #9 will be located. Repeat with the second reinforcement piece. Ensure that the space between the reinforcements is not flooded with glue which when dry, may obstruct the insertion of the next keel section. That's it for this week. Future parts sets: Parts 7 - Contains frame 9 and the stern false keel. Parts 8 - Contains the lower deck, frame 10 wood strips and a beam strip. Parts 9 - Contains a deck section, frame 11 and deck planks. Parts 10 - Contains frame 12, the stern deck, and wood strips x3. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 7 - Contains frame 9 and the stern false keel. Apply glue to the false keel end joint and insert it between the keel reinforcements. Ensure that the top edge of the added keel sits flush and level with the top of the previous keel, then clamp the reinforcements and set aside to fully dry. Glue frame #9 in position, ensuring that it is fully seated and is square to the keel. The tops of frame #8 will eventually protrude through the main deck, therefore you will need to stain the tops of this frame aove the line shown in the steps. I used dark oak, but the choice of colour is yours. Cut-away the visible part of the deck beam which spans the deck opening of frame #5, then smooth the cut ends. That's it for this week. Future parts sets: Parts 8 - Contains the lower deck, frame 10 wood strips and a beam strip. Parts 9 - Contains a deck section, frame 11 and deck planks. Parts 10 - Contains frame 12, the stern deck, and wood strips x3. Parts 11 - Contains frame 13, square bases and stern deck. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Parts 8 - Contains the lower deck, frame 10 wood strips and a beam strip. Glue frame 10 into position on the keel, ensuring that it is fully seated and set square to the keel. Apply glue to the highlighted area of the frames as shown in the steps, then fit the lower deck into place. I chose to add a couple of wood scrap pieces across the underside joint line to provide support and attain a firm level. Glue the T-shaped crossbeam into place across frame 8, then cut and add the deck beams to frames 7 & 9 at the indicated levels on the frames. Finally, stain the upright tab of the 'T' beam to match the previously stained frame tops. That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining beam length. Future parts sets: Parts 9 - Contains a deck section, frame 11 and deck planks. Parts 10 - Contains frame 12, stern deck and wood strips x3. Parts 11 - Contains frame 13, square bases and stern deck halves. Parts 12 - Contains frame 13, stern deck and planks. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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