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Colour change in parts OMG Options
schueyking
#161 Posted : 21 April 2012 20:56:58

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I am going to be patient and hope this gets sorted soon!Confused
lholland
#162 Posted : 22 April 2012 12:05:54

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I have managed to remove the red parts on the front wing and I am going to have a go a spraying them with varnish, if it works I may also attempt to do the back wing. I am totally confused which varnish to use though. Have trawled the internet reading all the product details with no happy result, Does anyone have any ideas which product to go for? I know that I will need an acrylic base type but the product details I have already looked at don't seem to fit the criteria.
Tomick
#163 Posted : 22 April 2012 12:12:54

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The Tamiya TS range of aerosols are acrylic. TS-13 is their gloss glear coat and can be found via eBay, a good plastic model kit store or online outlet such as "The Modeller" http://www.themodeller.c.../Tamiya-Spray-Paint.aspx
Warthog
#164 Posted : 22 April 2012 12:44:53

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I will post some pictures up in a bit as I have another option which is available at Asda's... It's called "Klear" and made by pledge... a lot less messy and no overspray as its aplied with "kleenex" mens tissue... DO NOT USE TOILET ROLL... its **** and leaves particles all over the finish..
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#165 Posted : 22 April 2012 13:00:48

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Ok... here is a picture of the front wings with different types of finishes..

The top one with the Voda logo's has been done with "Klear" (formaly Johnsons but now by "Pledge") This has about 10 coats to achieve the finish..

The Second one down is the wing painted with "Zero paints MP4 Red" with a coat of Halfords Clear coat..

Next is the "Original" part with 10 coats of "Klear"

And last is the "Original" with a coat of Halfords Clear....

Beside is the rear wing "Untreated" to give a comparison along side the Pods... I could give you my thouths on those but if I do then... well thats a different ball game Blushing

I will attempt to put up a small video on utubebookface thingy showing how to do the "Klear"... It really is simple as "Bigmal" will tell you.. He is the "God" when it comes to this stuff lol

Spencer

PS I'll attache the original size so you can download it and see better..
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MWG
#166 Posted : 22 April 2012 13:21:45

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Hi Spencer,

As I have not started my build yet, what you have just explained and shown with photos, is very important to me, I also agree that every model build requires modifications and enhancements to complete the model not only to finish it but also to put our own personal stamp on itBigGrin
Great job Spencer and thank you for sharing your awesome talentBigGrin Regards MikeThumpUp
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#167 Posted : 22 April 2012 13:48:07

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Your more than welcome Mike BigGrin Thats what we are here for..
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#168 Posted : 22 April 2012 18:25:46

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im back in the uk and suprised at the "fix" we been offered! will be ordering my new parts tomorrow but not happy. im hoping a better solution will be found and also that the rear wing parts are replaced!

spencer, cheers for putting pics up. what do you think to the finish with the halfords clear?? is it any good as thats what im going to be using on mine as i did with the suspension parts.

cheers,
scott
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only1ianuk
#169 Posted : 22 April 2012 19:22:11

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Hi, from looking at the pictures above, the best colour match and shine seems to be the Halfords clear coat to me.
Does anyone else agree?
Also, how easy is it to do? And is it spray or brush on?

Thanks
Ian
trunkmonkey
#170 Posted : 22 April 2012 19:36:08

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just a thought on this subject as i am only at issue 30 and dont yet have the side pods to compare with, is the fault with the actual base colour used or the gloss finish? if its the latter, would it not be possible to use a fine cutting paste to polish in the glossy finish?
Warthog
#171 Posted : 22 April 2012 19:50:02

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only1ianuk wrote:
Hi, from looking at the pictures above, the best colour match and shine seems to be the Halfords clear coat to me.
Does anyone else agree?
Also, how easy is it to do? And is it spray or brush on?

Thanks
Ian


Hi Ian... It's a spray can but used for cars so if you do go down this route then I suggest light coats in a well ventilated room with no dust.. one light coat from about 7 inches away then 2 mins later another... should be ok after that... you could then T-Cut the finish to get a good shine but if you have had no experience with either then just do a few coats as suggested... One other thing is to only do the RED wings... you must dismantel them because if you get any on the "Chrome" effect it will destroy it...

Spencer
Warthog
#172 Posted : 22 April 2012 19:51:49

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trunkmonkey wrote:
just a thought on this subject as i am only at issue 30 and dont yet have the side pods to compare with, is the fault with the actual base colour used or the gloss finish? if its the latter, would it not be possible to use a fine cutting paste to polish in the glossy finish?


I wouldn't suggest using any paste to "cut" in the colour as this will remove it from the plastic... see above BigGrin
Warthog
#173 Posted : 22 April 2012 19:54:43

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scottww86 wrote:
im back in the uk and suprised at the "fix" we been offered! will be ordering my new parts tomorrow but not happy. im hoping a better solution will be found and also that the rear wing parts are replaced!

spencer, cheers for putting pics up. what do you think to the finish with the halfords clear?? is it any good as thats what im going to be using on mine as i did with the suspension parts.

cheers,
scott


Hi Scott... The Halfords clear is fine and gives a good finish but see my reply about light coats above... You've done the suspension arms so you should know about the light coats to get the bet finish etc..
trunkmonkey
#174 Posted : 22 April 2012 20:22:08

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If its just a case of glossing the surface i would suggest, if you are any good with an airbrush using,

Tamiya X-22 , which is a gloss clear coat lacquer
lholland
#175 Posted : 22 April 2012 21:36:10

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Thats great everyone, thanks for all that info I can now order something I know will work. Now if I can just work out how to dismantle the back wing
firefighter
#176 Posted : 22 April 2012 21:51:11

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bit of advice all DON'T use acrilic spray just a clear gloss spray you get a better finish have a look at mine pic i put on earlier in a different post on this matter page 8 post 160Mellow
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trunkmonkey
#177 Posted : 22 April 2012 22:19:31

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As i do not know what paint finish Kyosho have opted for a simple way to test is as follows, but at risk of sacrificing said test piece, -


To test for acrylic paint, apply about a teaspoon of Methyl Hydrate to a clean (white) rag, and then rub the paint with the wet part of the rag. If the paint transfers to the rag, it is acrylic paint.


To test for enamel paint, apply about a teaspoon of Turpentine to a clean (white) rag, and then rub the paint with the wet part. If the paint transfers to the rag, it is an enamel paint.


......if it would appear that the original finish is the second,......forget about using the paint i lacquer said i would use.....if its the 1st.....then do!!

kryten2b
#178 Posted : 22 April 2012 22:43:17

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I am still pretty loathe to order any replacements until we have a final solution from Admin/Kyosho.

Any updates.....please????
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trunkmonkey
#179 Posted : 22 April 2012 22:59:36

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on further research it would appear that if you are just adding a coat of gloss to the said parts then please feel free to use the lacquer i previously mentioned as its acrylic and wont harm the existing finish as it would appear its not enamel.....i would probably suggest a fine wet and dry first to key the surface probably 2000 grit, wash off any dust with warm soapy water, allow to dry, then a couple of coats of lacquer thinned down then a fine tamiya cutting/finishing past to buff up the final finish :-)

this only applies if you havent already stripped the part and re coloured with an enamel base coat!!!
Tomick
#180 Posted : 22 April 2012 23:07:19

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Actually, the clear coat note on the Jap web site is referring to a gloss clear coat over the decals, and recommends an Aqueous (acrylic) type..
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