Issue 112 - Contains the mizzen topsail, assorted blocks, glass beads and parrel spacers., and has instructions for fitting the mizzen cross jack yard, topmast yard and topmast sail.

For both versions of the model you will need the cross jack yard and topmast yard, these spars were assembled in issue 81.

Fitting the cross jack yard - This spar has very little rigging - there is no tye, and the yard is slung solely from a sling. Use 0.25mm natural thread for all lines except the sling (0.5mm natural thread).

Take the cross jack yard and fit the horses (footropes) and swivel the blocks for the braces to face forwards (as per step 3 on page 13). Then tie a 500mm length of 0.5mm natural thread around the centre of the yard to form the sling.

Prepare the parrel in the same way as the others, this time using eight ribs and 14 beads on two 500mm lengths of thread. Then tie the parrel just inside one of the wooden yard slings.
Hold the yard in position just above the gaff boom, and feed the sling rope up through the hole in the mizzen top. Tie the sling around the mast cap using the same technique you used for the main and fore mast yards, then tie the loose end of the parrel around the back of the mast and the other side of the yard.

Rigging the cross jack yard - Use 0.25mm thread for all these rigging lines.
Start by making the Lifts (rope A), tie two 650mm lengths of thread round the mast cap. Lead one out to port and one to starboard. Feed the ends of the threads through the gaps in the shrouds and through the outer block on the end of the yard, picking gaps that give the threads a straight run to the blocks.
Bring the threads back through the shrouds and to the blocks on the mast cap, then take the threads down through the hole in the mizzen top. Secure the threads to the belaying pins as shown in the step photo, and tension both sides together to make sure the yard is level, then seal and trim the threads.

Fitting the mizzen topmast yard - Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout, and omit Steps 2, 3 and 10 to 15 for the 'bare spars' model (ropes C & D).
Tie the horses (footropes) to the yard as before, and make sure that the blocks for the braces face aft (as per step 7 on page 13).
Tie a 650mm length of thread to the mizzen topmast to form the tye which will support the yard. Hold the yard in position, and feed the tye through the double block on the yard, going from back to front.
Rig the double block on the mast tot he block on the yard, and pull the yard up as high as it will comfortably go, then tie the thread off to the aft eyebolt on the starboard side of the model.

Prepare the parrel, this time using six ribs and 10 beads (you will need to use some of the remaining parrel parts from earlier issues), then tie the parrel to the yard, lead it around the mast and tie off.

To make the lifts (rope E), tie a 750mm length of thread to the mizzen mast cap, and take the thread through the block on the end of the yard, and back through the block on the mast cap, then tie the thread to the first shroud.
Repeat on the other side of the model, then tension both lines simultaneously making sure the yard stays square.

Adding the braces (ropes F & G) - These steps apply whether or not you are adding sails and use 0.25mm natural thread throughout.

To make the cross jack braces (rope F), cut two 850mm long threads and tie a single block (supplied in 108) about 50mm from one end. Tie the blocks inside the main mast shrouds, attaching them to the fourth shroud from the front, four or five ratlines below the catharpins.
Run the threads back through one hole of the double blocks on the ends of the cross jack yard, crossing them to run from the port shroud to the starboard yardarm, and visa versa. Double the threads back on themselves and take them back through the blocks attached to the shrouds to form an X pattern, then tie the threads off to the last but one mainmast shroud. Tension both sides together then seal and trim the threads.

To make the topsail yard braces (rope G), tie two 800mm threads to the gaff boom by the top double blocks, and lead one to port and the other to starboard, (for the bare spars model you will need to add both of these double blocks to the end of the driver gaff boom as per the driver gaff plan, which have been omitted in error on the plan for the 'bare spars' version).
Take these threads up to the blocks on the ends of the topsail yard, double them back and feed them through one of the holes in the double blocks. Then take them down to the taffrail at the stern, and secure them to the inboard eyebolts.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 113 - Contains the mizzen topgallant sail, assorted blocks, glass beads, parrel spacers, oars, brass gratings, diecast barrel & bucket, bras wire & strip., and has instructions for fitting and rigging the mizzen topgallant yard & sail and fitting the mizzen bowlines.

Issue 114 - Contains dummy gun barrels, anchor kit, blocks & thread., and has instructions for fitting the anchors and adding the bowsprit yard braces.

Issue 115 - Contains frame parts for the 28ft Pinnace boat, blocks & dummy guns., and has instructions for continuing the bowlines and the construction of the Pinnace boat.

Issue 116 - Contains dummy gun barrels, wood strips, pins, blocks, eyebolts, brass strip & davit brackets., and has instructions for constructing and rigging the quarter davits.

Issue 114 - Contains dummy gun barrels, anchor kit, blocks & thread., and has instructions for fitting the anchor's and adding the bowsprit yard braces.

You will need the two anchors that you constructed in issues 2 and 30, the anchor parts supplied with issue 94 and this issue, plus the 0.8mm and 0.15mm brown thread provided with Issue 89, and some of the brass wire from issue 113.

Fitting the anchors - Take one of the double blocks, and cut a 30mm length of the thin brass wire, then wrap the wire around the block and twist the ends together to secure them, then cut off one leg.
Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to form the remaining leg into a neat hook and shorten the leg as necessary.

Use a short piece of brown 0.8mm thread to form a loop about 8mm in diameter, then take one of the anchors you previously assembled in issue 2 or issue 30, and fold the loop around the anchor shank, then tuck the centre of the loop back through itself.

Tie a 200mm length of 0.8mm brown thread around the brass ring, and another around the bottom of the anchor shank. Seal and trim all the knots, including the loop in the middle.

Cathead rope - Tie a 450mm length of 0.25mm natural thread around the end of the cathead, then loosely rig the double block and hook to the cathead via its four rigging holes using the free end of the thread.

Lash the anchor in position as shown, securing the ropes as shown in steps 11 & 12. Tie the top of the anchor to the cathead by wrapping the thread around the cathead twice and secure it with two half-hitches.

Tie the bottom end of the anchor to the timberhead just aft of the carronade. Secure the thread with a clove hitch. Then hook the double block (made earlier) to the loop of thread on the anchor stock, and then tighten the rigging.

Take the cathead thread through the snatch block and secure it to the timberhead aft of the block, using a clove hitch.

Cut the anchor rope to length, leaving some slack hanging down, which if you wet the rope it will help keep its shape, then glue the end inside the outer hawse hole.

Assemble another anchor using the instructions from issue 30, (there is no need to attach an anchor rope), but tie on two 200mm lengths of 0.8mm brown thread – one to the brass ring and the other about halfway along the shank.
Position the anchor over the fore chainwale as shown in the step, and lash it in place by tying both threads to the deck bitts using clove hitches.

Repeat the anchor fitting process on the opposite side of the hull.

Adding the bowsprit yard braces - These four ropes four control the position of the two bowsprit yards, and should be added whether or not you are fitting sails. Once again, use 0.25mm natural thread throughout.

To make the spritsail yard brace (rope A), take a 750mm length of thread and tie it to the end of the spritsail yard. Then feed this thread through the outer hole in the outer (double) block under the foretop, and feed the thread through the outer eyebolt under the foretop, then down to deck level. Secure the end of the thread to the second pin from the end of the cockpit pinrail. Then repeat on the other side of the model.

To make the spritsail topsail yard brace (rope B), take a 850mm length of thread and tie one end to the tip of the spritsail topsail yard, then feed the free end through the inner hole of the outer double block used earlier. Take the thread through the inner eyebolt under the fore top, then down to deck level, then secure the thread to the same pin you used earlier. Repeat on the other side of the model.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 115 - Contains frame parts for the 28ft Pinnace boat, blocks & dummy guns., and has instructions for continuing the bowlines and the construction of the Pinnace boat.

Issue 116 - Contains dummy gun barrels, wood strips, pins, blocks, eyebolts, brass strip & davit brackets., and has instructions for constructing and rigging the quarter davits.