Nose cone looks fantastic mate. U could prob get away with putting the the top part on now as I'm assuming the only reason it was left off was for the decals. Great work

Thanks guys. It looks even better this morning now the creases have been sucked back..
So nothing to worry about everyone...

Chris

Did you buy them decals for the nose cone, we will get them in the build later on right?

Hey guys, sorry to revive an old thread - just wanted to get some further advice with these carbon decals supplied by Deag.

I have bought the micro set & sol & once the decals have been applied & dried using these - do they require any further attention with Klear or some other top-coat to finish & protect them?

If it is Klear, what is the best way to apply this - i have bought some, but never used it?

Thanks

Thanks Warthog - but just to clarify, do you mean apply Klear with a soft brush or the Micro Sol/Set?

Sorry, made loads of models as a kid - but never used any of these products

Great advice Warty.....I have my Micro sol and Micro set....just need to get some Klear

Hi Kryten
epoxys now thats a can of worms ,the 5 minute epoxys tend to go off fast so can be wastefull and make things messy as you tend to rush things when using it.I tend to use the 30 minute type as it gives you some working time but be carefull of any overspills and you will need to clamp the parts together untill its set.Use coctail sticks to apply on small areas and the tounge depresor type lolly sticks for larger areas and i mix mine on a small piece of glass.As for brand names through experience iv found that epoxy is epoxy watever tube it comes in so a cheap one from Wilko will work just as well as an evostick brand but the difrence is in the price,hope this helps
regards
Andy

PS epoxys also have a tendency to harden over time and crack if put under any load unless strengthened with carbon fibre rovings ect

Does anyone know why epoxy has been suggested for these parts. Are they made of a different material?

You'll notice that I say in my diary notes that the magazine suggesst a General Purpose glue rather than use ABS glue for particular assemblies, which is for two reasons.

There is high risk that the use of ABS glue in these areas may result in seepage onto the silver paint, or that you inadvertantly do so, thus destroying any paint that it comes into contact with.

I opted for epoxy for two reasons....as Warthog says, it can be applied with accuracy via a cocktail in small dots, and that it won't attack the silver paint.

Hi,
Sorry to bug, but was there a particular reason we were advised to use pipeweld and not Epoxy?
Ta
Ian