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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/09/2012 Posts: 3 Points: 9
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 Is it realy necesary to build a asse4mbily jig ? Because my keel looks priity straight aspesially with the 2 peices of board i have stuck on each side
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Its advisable to construct the hull using a keel jig for the reasons described in the jig content of the magazine.
Basically without a hull jig, there is very high risk of constructing a hull that has a twist or bend to it, and especially so when it comes to planking the hull, in effect building a "banana boat" which can be almost impossible to correct once it has gone too far.
You don't have to construct the jig version shown in the magazine, there are many variations which do the same thing, the simplest being a base board with 'L' brackets secured to it, as per this item from MWG...http://forum.model-space...s&m=58205#post58205
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/09/2012 Posts: 73 Points: 225 Location: York
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Rob I didn't use a jig for my Endeavour build, just due to sheer ignorance, as it is my first ever wooden ship build. I blindly followed the magazine, assembling as I went, without having all the keel and rib pieces. I was very lucky, as the floor pieces, in conjunction with the ribs, pulled everything square, as I went along, and thankfully I have had no problems during construction of the with the hull. That said, I consider myself fortunate, and won't be taking any chances with SOtS! IMO, whilst a little more effort is required obtaining the pieces and building the jig, in the long run, it will prove worthwhile. Currently Building:
Eaglemoss HMB Endeavour
De Agostini Sovereign of the Seas
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/09/2012 Posts: 40 Points: 96 Location: Surrey, UK
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Hi Guys  I'm just about to build my Jig board, but looking online I found this: http://www.cornwallmodel.../billing_boats_397.html
Has anyone used one of these - any good? Cheers Pete
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Hi Pietro some people say there ok other's say there not worth buying but its your choice, but i think it wont be long enough for the SoS as the jig you are looking at is 90 cm long[not sure if this is the overall length or the total length of a keel can be built on it] and the SoS is 110cm.TBH buying the melamine board and metal as recomended by the more experienced builders is the way to go and will cost around £15 a lot less than the asking price of the jig.I personaly use solid pine 140mm by 40mm by 1000 mm aprox that i get as cheap off cuts from the local wood mill.Hope this is of help regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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That particular jig is unsuitable for the SotS, because the frames of the SotS reach to the bottom of the false keel, therefore in the early stages of frame build and planking, it would not be any use.
The two types of keel jig are talked about across issues 2/3, both are suited to very different keel types and the second, (straight keel jig) being suitable for the SoTs.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/09/2012 Posts: 40 Points: 96 Location: Surrey, UK
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Great feedback - thanks guys Will build my own jig!  Pete
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi, Sadley I am one of those unlucky guys who have purchased this - take my advise mate and keep hold of your cash - I've had it for 2 years and not once has it come in handy!!!!!!!! A cheap shelf, some L-brackets and 1/2" screws is all that you need... Phil,
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 Rank: Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Just make sure your 'L' brackets are 90 degrees. I bought some very cheaply on EBay and they are all somewhere between 75 & 105 degrees. Caveat Emptor.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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court orchard wrote:Just make sure your 'L' brackets are 90 degrees. I bought some very cheaply on EBay and they are all somewhere between 75 & 105 degrees. Caveat Emptor. yep - done that as well 
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 14 Points: 42 Location: Lancashire, UK
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hi guys, I have 1 question regarding the jig and rib frames 5 & 6. In issue 2 the instructions say NOT to glue ribs 5 & 6 if you want to make the assembly jig shown in issue 3. Why is this?
Karlwarpy
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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I presume, because you use the false keel part 1 as a pattern to make the front alignment piece of the jig.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 14 Points: 42 Location: Lancashire, UK
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court orchard wrote:I presume, because you use the false keel part 1 as a pattern to make the front alignment piece of the jig. Thanks lol.. I totally forgot about dry mounting the bulkhead, now it makes sense. (embarrassed).
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/09/2012 Posts: 56 Points: 144 Location: East Lothian
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I got a freebie piece of ply from B&Q for my hull 49" X 6" is this big enough ?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Its more than long enough (30" long as a minimum), though you might find that 6" wide is possibly too narrow depending on the size of L brackets you intend to use. The board should be at least 15mm thick and without warp.
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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philjaps1 wrote:Hi, Sadley I am one of those unlucky guys who have purchased this - take my advise mate and keep hold of your cash - I've had it for 2 years and not once has it come in handy!!!!!!!! A cheap shelf, some L-brackets and 1/2" screws is all that you need... Phil, I also purchased one of these about 18 months ago & as Phil says, I haven't used it either. Sure it's fine for some of Billings Boats builds but I haven't yet had a build that will work with it!  Wilfy
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/09/2012 Posts: 81 Points: 226 Location: Worcester
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I've started building my jig using what I've got in the first 3 issues as a template and must say it works a treat and gives you great peace of mind knowing that your build is held securely upright and square. I already had a piece of mdf for the base and managed to get a suitable piece of ply from local hardware store, the dimensions given in the magazine for the ply is probably enough to make a dozen jigs!!! I got L brackets from screw fix which were less than 2 quid for a pack of 10, however they were not perfectly square so needed a little tweak in the vice to get them perfect. All in all just a few extra pounds and a little extra time to keep the build in good shape seems like a good deal to me. Paul Building - Sovereign Of The Seas
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/09/2012 Posts: 56 Points: 144 Location: East Lothian
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Tomick wrote:Its more than long enough (30" long as a minimum), though you might find that 6" wide is possibly too narrow depending on the size of L brackets you intend to use. The board should be at least 15mm thick and without warp. Whats the best width for the board ?
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 14 Points: 42 Location: Lancashire, UK
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My base board is 9inch wide and I'm using 2 inch and 1.5 inch brackets. It's a pine shelf basically but very flat and square.
6 inch wide seems ok (in my opinion) even using 2inch brackets still leaves ~1 inch spare space from the edge of the board, or 1.25 inches if you use 1.5in brackets
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi karlwarpy,the reason we use bigger brackets and wider wood is because the keel is held more upright,and stops twisting,and the mdf is because it is not as likely to warp,pine is notorious for warping in humid conditions and temperature changes,we have found this out through experience,and would not tell others to skimp on these materials,as the carcass is going to be in the jig for some time,I feel the right materials are important at this stage, Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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