Hi Phil

Micro Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on models. It completely softens the Decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone while it does its work. Do not touch until dry as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged.

Micro Set is a decal setting solution that does several things to the Decals to improve application. Micro Set should be applied to the surface of the model where you will be sliding off the decal. Micro Set prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cuts the oils in new paint and converts the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and more lasting one.

Klear (Johnsons) Is a water based household clear floor polish that modelers use to get a good shine/finish to there model, that being a car or plane. It also adds as a sealant/barrier to help prevent removal of different types of paints once handled with our little mits.. I use "Klear" over the chrome finish on my Model to protect it from any contaminants like natural oils from the skin leaving finger prints etc.. It also protects Decals and creates a "seal". Once a few coats are applied with a light polish between coats you can build up a very nice "gloss" finish.

Now to answer your question:

I would use Micro-set for the Decals when applying as Micro-Sol is for un-even surfaces as described above.. then give light coats of Klear to your model once you have finished Decaling and they are completely dry, only do sections at a time using a very high quality brush like a sable art brush or you can do what I do... Get yourself a box of Kleenex tissues.. the ones you will use for blowing your nose!! this is important as this type of tissue does not leave small particles when applied to the surface of your model.. Toilet tissue will, thats why we use it on our Ar*es!!

Take a small container and after a good shake of the johnsons, pour a small amount into it, enough to dip the end of the tissue... Take one of the tissues and fold it a few times and then dip in and starting at one point slowly allow the tissue to drag across the surface.. slightly blow on it to dry and 30 seconds later with a new dry tissue or lint free cloth give it a gentle polish.. Now do this again, about 3-4 times until your happy with the "shine" that you have got... Do not "rub" in at any time ok as you will in practice be removing what you have put on already..

If you have an old kit or part then Practice on that first as you will then get the hang of it.. Practice practice practice..

Hope this helps and if I had a video camera I would do a little video to go with it but I don't

Spencer

That's a very detailed reply, thank you Spencer.
I have got an old RC model knocking around with ABS bodywork somewhere, think I will use Klear on that for a trial.
Also take your points, MicroSet, for all the decals, microsol for anything on an uneven surface - gotcha.
Sable brushes or Kleenex, no bog roll.

Thanks very much for the advice, really appreciated.

Oh and don't leave any puddles with it as it will Crack and pull the paint..

Phil your more than welcome mate

Hi guys, I've never heard of Klear before.I was just going to settle for the normal out the packet finish but now you've got me curious.Where would i get this product, in a model shop or B&Q etc? I may need alittle help when i get some as it's totally new to me.Thanks.

what is the liquid used here, is it water ? would you say he has a good technique ?
what has he dipped the ear bud in before rolling on to the decals ?

http://www.youtube.com/w...N5w&feature=related

loving the ferrari btw.