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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,928 Points: 5,796 Location: UK
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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[size=6] Sovereign of the Seas was a 17th century Royal Navy first rate ship of the line, it was built by Peter Pett under the guidance of his father Phineas, the King's master shipwright. Her keel was laid in 1635 and she was launched at Woolwich dockyard on October 13. The ship was ordered as a 90-gun ship, but at the insistence of the King (Charles I), she carried 102 bronze cannon, and was at the time the most powerfully armed warship in the world. In size, she surpassed all contemporaries and was built to create an image of power to intimidate, which was a political asset to King Charles foreign policy. As the second three-decked first-rate (the first being Prince Royal of 1610), she was the predecessor of Nelson's Victory. She was the most extravagantly decorated warship in the Royal Navy, completely adorned from stern to bow with gilded carvings set against a black background which gave her a distinctive black and gold look. She was named the 'Golden Devil' by the Dutch after she taking part in the battle of Kentish Knock, sinking a Dutch ship with a single burst of gunfire. In 1685 she underwent overhaul and was re-launched as a first rate of 100 guns, before taking part in the outset of the War of the Grand Alliance against Louis XIV of France. For the first time she ventured into the Irish Sea, and later participated in the Battle of Beachy Head and the Battle of La Hougue, when she was more than fifty years old. In that period she was the first ship in history that flew royals above her topgallant sails and a topgallant sail on the jigger-mast. By 1696 she was showing her age and beginning to spring leaks, and was returned to Chatham Dockyard for repair. On the 27th January 1697 the ship was engulfed by fire and was raised to the water line. The fire was either by accident, negligence or design, though popular folklore attributes the happening to an overturned candle in the temporary ship keepers cabin. The useable timbers were used to build the 100-gun ship Royal Sovereign, 1701-1706. It was not until HMS Victory was built that a greater warship emerged to claim fame and overshadow the memory of the Sovereign of the Seas. The Sovereign of the Seas model: Kit video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFdxHHRy13A
Length: 1100mm, Height: 900mm, Beam: 400mm Kit content features: Laser-cut ply, plank-on-frame construction, diecast metal and photo-etched brass ornamentation, wooden masts & spars, photo-etched brass parts, double planked hull (sapele & basswood veneer 2nd plank), plank-on-frame ship's boat, assorted rigging threads, flags, stitched sail set and an assortment of armament of the period (demi-cannon & culverin). Also a compliment of diecast metal 17th Century Naval figurines are included (unpainted). Each magazine contains step-by step instructions and Modelling Materclass information of the basic techniques of model ship constuction along with a historical content. Scale: 1/84 - is an approximate scale as the true size of the ship is historically unknown. Unfortunately the Phineas Pett original plans and ship builders model no longer exist, therefore exact dimensions in any scale are approximate and the design can differ from one model manufacturer to another, as all are an interpretation of contemporary sources, such as paintings and drawings. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible. Web page: https://www.deagostini.c...ls/sovereign-of-the-seasTomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The official build diary will follow the format of the magazine steps, and will not include any enhancement to the base magazine build. You are of course free to build and finish the model how you so choose.
Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.
Issue 1 - The first parts set contains the bow false keel, forward bulkhead, bow formers & supports, a cannon kit and brown thread., and has instructions for the assembly of the bulkhead and the first cannon.
Bulkhead build - For a strong glue joint, lightly sand the charring (laser ash) from the contact surfaces of laser-cut wood parts where the parts are to be glued.
Using PVA wood glue, position and fix one of the #3 bow former supports into the slot marked 3 upon the forward bulkhead. Then position and glue the second bow former support at the opposite side. Ensure that both are set at 90 degrees to the bulkhead.
Position and glue one of the #4 bow formers onto the forward bulkhead and repeat the process with the second #4 bow former, gluing to the forward bulkhead at the opposite side as shown. Ensure both are set at 90 degrees to the bulkhead, and that no glue residue remains between the #4 formers, and that you have a gap of 4mm between them.
Take the bow false keel and dry-fit it into the forward bulkhead assembly. Note - Only glue the keel now if you do not want to make the assembly jig, as shown in issues 2 and 3, as you will need to draw around the bow false keel, (the "straight keel" jig shown within issue 3 is suited to the Sovereign model).
Assembling the first cannon - Cut the carriage parts from the wood fret, then sand flat any irregularities that occur at the points where the pieces were attached.
Glue the gun carriage base to the gun carriage side, as shown (the lines of the carriage side should face to the outside). Complete the gun carriage gluing the second side to the base.
Position and glue the connecting strip across the slots on the underside, then cut the ends flush and lightly sand.
If you want a fully painted model, apply a coat of sanding sealer or primer, then paint the gun carriage red.
Insert the axle through the holes. If you opted for a painted finish, prime and paint the wheels black. Then slip them onto the axle and fix with superglue, and cut the axle to length with side cutters leaving a little overhang.
To complete the decoration, prime and paint the gun barrel a dark bronze colour. When fully dry, set the barrel onto the carriage and glue the trunnion cap squares in place with superglue.
Note that your bow false keel will be indetical to that shown in the first and last image (with slots its front edge), rather than that seen in image #5 (without slots). The bow false keel was updated with slots to accomodate a bow stand supplied in issue 3.
That's it for issue 1, carefully store the cannon, and place the remaining cannon parts, wire and thread into a bag labelled issue 1.
Future issues:
Issue 2 - Contains frames 5 & 6, bow formers, thread and a cannon kit.
Issue 3 - Contains the mid section of false keel, frame 7, bow formers, mast housing, brace pieces, anchor parts, black thread and keel temporary support pieces.
Issue 4 - Contains rib frames 13 & 15 and bow formers.
Issue 5 - Contains the middle false keel section, frame 16, a mast socket and brace pieces.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 2 - Contains rib frames 5 & 6, bow formers, thread and a cannon kit., and has information for making an assembly jig, and instructions for adding the bulkhead to the bow false keel, adding bow formers, assembling the cannon & rib frames, and adding the first of the frames to the bow false keel.
If you intend to build a keel jig, you will need to make the "straight keel" jig shown in issue 3, which comprises of 4mm plywood formers at the bow and stern, set upon a 15mm thick base board which is noted as 900mm long and 200mm wide. Then follow steps A, C, the right-hand parts in step D, steps E, F and G of pages 9 & 10 of issue 2.
(Step B, the left hand parts of step D shown in issue 2 and step i - M of issue 3 can be carried out in issue 7 when the final keel part is supplied.
For a strong glue joint, lightly sand the dark 'laser ash' from the contact surfaces of wood parts.
Take a bow former 8 and glue it into the forward bulkhead assembly. Ensure it is set at a right angle to the bulkhead, then repeat at the opposite side with the second #8 former.
Take rib frame 5 and glue rib frame 5a to its left edge lug, as shown. Make sure that it sits within the slot so that it is flush with the frame surface, repeat with rib 5b, then lay the frame on a flat work surface while the glue sets.
Repeat the process with frame #6 and ribs 6a/b.
Glue frame 5 into position in its corresponding slot # 5 on the keel, ensure that the rib is fully seated within its slot and that it is set at 90 degrees to the keel, repeat with frame #6.
Assembling the cannon - Cut the gun carriage pieces from the fret, then lightly sand any rough edges.
You will notice that the carriage base has a wide and is wider at one end, the widest end should be placed at the rear end of the carriage. The grooved carriage sides should face to the outside.
Glue an edge of the base to a carriage side, making sure not to cover the holes and that the base is correctly oriented. Then add the second side sot hat it is parallel and symmetrical.
Prime and paint the carriage red, the wheels black and the gun barrel bronze.
Insert both axles, then glue the wheels into place, and snip off the excess axle to leave a light overhang.
Glue the wedge into place as shown, then add the gun barrel and secure by gluing a cap square across each trunnion.
Use a 0.6mm bit to drill two holes on either side of the carriage to accomodate an eyebolt into each hole. (You will need to snip 2mm from the end of each eyebolt).
That's it for this stage, carefully store the cannon and remaining cannon parts.
Future issues:
Issue 3 - Contains the mid section of false keel, frame 7, bow formers, mast housing, brace pieces, anchor parts, black thread and keel temporary support pieces. Information is also provided on how to make a "straight keel" jig.
Issue 4 - Contains rib frames 13 & 15 and bow formers.
Issue 5 - Contains the middle false keel section, frame 16, a mast socket and brace pieces.
Issue 6 - Contains frames 20 and 21.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 3 - Contains the mid section false keel, frame 7, bow formers, mast housing, brace pieces, anchor parts, black thread and the keel temporary support pieces., and has instructions for assembling the temporary keel support, fixing the keel section and braces, assembling and installing frame #7, installing the mast housing, fitting the bow formers and making the anchor.
Information is also provided on how to make a keel jig to make a "straight keel" and an enhancement for this jig is also included in issue 4.
Temporary bow support: Take parts C1 & C2 and glue them together in the position shown. They must be set at a right angles to one another.
Fit the temporary support between the bow formers. DO NOT glue the support place as it is a temporary item.
Continuing the framework - Carefully glue the central section of the false keel 9 to the end of the forward false keel 1, and at the same time, glue bracing pieces 10 on opposite sides of the false keel at the join between pieces 1 and 9. Secure with a clamp until the glue has fully set, and ensure that neither brace obstructs the frame slot on ether side.
Complete rib frame 7, fitting and gluing the two rib frames 7a and 7b to its side edges, as per previous steps.
Glue rib frame 7 to the forward section of the false keel, fixing it in the corresponding slot. Make sure that it set at a right angle to the false keel and this it is fully seated.
Glue piece 14 (to become the mast housing) into the slot marked on the false keel. The two pieces must form a right angle in both planes.
Add the two bow formers #11, glue them into the relevant slots on the bulkhead.
Making the anchor - Use a fine file to remove any burrs on the anchor. If you opt for a decorative finish, spray or paint on a coat of metal primer. When dry, paint the anchor black.
Take the wood strip and cut it into four pieces, following the measurements indicated in the step photo.
Glue the two shorter pieces on the longer one. Line them up at the end and press the sides with your fingers so that they are aligned correctly. When the glue has dried, place the remaining long piece of the wood alongside and make a slot using a round file. This operation must be carried out at the same time on both halves to obtain identical slots. The slot needs to be the same width as the shank of the anchor, so check that it will fit.
Make a mark at the centre and at 1mm at each end of the stock. Draw two diagonal lines to join the points together. Using a sanding block, remove the excess wood.
Put a drop of Superglue in the slot and insert the anchor. It is essential that the stock is mounted at a right angle to the anchor flukes.
Now glue the two parts of the stock together with PVA wood glue. When dry, smooth with fine sandpaper and clean off any excess glue, then fix the entire assembly with a spring clamp until the glue has set.
Wrap black thread around the stock of the anchor to form four regular rope bindings, set according to the distances indicated in the step photo.
Secure the bindings by putting a drop of PVA glue into the bindings, spread it with a finger, and leave to dry. Use a very sharp craft knife to cut off the excess thread to obtain a clean finish.
Finally, open the anchor ring with two pairs of pliers, then pass it through the eye in the anchor shank, then close the ring. The first anchor is now complete.
There is no info in the steps regarding staining or painting of the stock, which may turn up later on in the build when the other anchors have been received. So for now I will leave as is and possibly look to applying a dark woodstain later when the other three anchors have appeared and stain all four at the same time so that the finish is uniform.
That's it for this week, carefully store the anchor.
Future issues:
Issue 4 - Contains rib frames 13 & 15 and bow formers.
Issue 5 - Contains the middle false keel section, frame 16, a mast socket and brace pieces.
Issue 6 - Contains frames 20 and 21.
Issue 7 - Contains frame 22, the stern false keel section and brace pieces.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 4 - Contains rib frames 13 & 15 along with bow formers., and has instructions for assembling and adding the rib frames, bow formers and making tackle blocks for the cannon.
Assembling the frames - Glue the #12 bow former's to the forward bulkhead,make sure that they are set at a right angle to the bulkhead.
Take pieces 13, 13a and 13b, glue and fit rib frame 13a to the left edge of rib frame of 13 and repeat at the opposite side with rib 13b, then set the frame aside on a flat surface (weighted down) to allow the glue to fully set.
Glue the assembled frame 13 into the central section of the false keel, making sure that the two pieces form a right angle and it is fully seated into its slot.
Repeat the frame assembly process with frame 15, by gluing 15a and 15b to the respective edges. Then glue rib frame 15 into the relevant slot of the central section of the false keel, taking care to keep the two pieces at right angles and that the frame is fully seated.
Making the cannon tackle blocks - Take the four blocks, steel wire and eyebolts that you received with Issue 1.
The step images illustrate the technique for dressing the blocks. Before fitting the blocks with the wire, it is a good idea to clean up the holes with a mini drill bit.
Dressing the blocks - Cut a 50mm-long piece of the wire, then, using a wooden rod or a 1mm drill bit, make a loop in the centre of the wire, as shown in the magzine.
Fit the wire to the block by passing the two loose ends of the wire along the long edges, then twist the ends with pliers and remove the surplus (though not too close to the loop). Complete two blocks in this way.
Repeat the operation with the second pair of blocks,this time without cutting the lower ends of the wire, then create a second lower loop on these two blocks, as shown in the step; then cut off the surplus (again not too close to the loop).
That's it for this week, carefully store the blocks for later use.
Future issues:
Issue 5 - Contains the middle false keel section, frame 16, a mast socket and brace pieces.
Issue 6 - Contains frames 20 and 21.
Issue 7 - Contains frame 22, the stern false keel section and brace pieces.
Issue 8 - Contains parts to construct hull framework of the ship's Launch.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 5 - Contains the middle false keel section, frame 16 parts, a mast socket and false keel brace pieces.
I have set the hull framework into a simple keel jig. If you have opted not to use a keel jig, then you must ensure that the keel runs in true alignment and not curve, and remember that the frames must be fully seated into their slots in the keel, are set at 90 degrees to it.
Take the keel assembled so far, fit and glue the left edge of the central section of the false keel in place as shown, folowed by the the two bracing pieces either side of the keel joint, holding them in place with clamps. Ensure that the braces do not overlap the lateral slots on either side.
Be aware that false keel (part #17) in this issue does no have the frame slot numbers upon it, and that the number upon each frame does not run consequtively (e.g.in the next issue frame 20 will follow frame 16). Basically the parts are numbered as part numbers rather than location numbers. Therefore be careful that you mount the correct frame into the correct slot, the position of which can be identified from the magazine images.
Prepare and assemble frame #16 following the same procedure as before. Then glue it in place upon the keel folowing frame 15. Ensure it is fully seated and set at a right angle to the keel.
Take the mast housing (part #19), glue it into the mast housing slot of false keel 17. Check that the two pieces form a right angle.
Take the four blocks completed in Issue 4, and four eyebolts received with isue 1. After opening the eye of one of the four eyebolts with pliers, fit it to one of the blocks with a single ring, then close the eyelet of eyebolt. Now, repeat the operation to make a second single ring block.
Use sidecutters to shorten by about 2mm both shanks of the eyebolts connected to the two blocks.
Take the cannon made in Issue 1, and drill a 0.6mm hole in each side of the gun carriage in the positions indicated in the magazine. Then super glue the shanks of the trimmed eyebolts into the drilled holes.
Fit the remaining two eyebolts to the blocks that have double rings. Choose the one nearest to the hole. Keep these safe for future assembly.
That's it for this stage, carefully store the cannon and remaining blocks.
Future issues:
Issue 6 - Contains parts for the assembly of frames 20 and 21.
Issue 7 - Contains parts for the assembly of frame 22, the stern false keel section and brace pieces.
Issue 8 - Contains framework parts to construct for the ship's Launch.
Issue 9 - Contains parts for the assembly of frames 26 and 27.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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