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pip
#1 Posted : 26 September 2012 16:58:07

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hi, could anyone please tell me if i need to start painting the basic hull/keel of the soveriegn, as i put it together, or do all the structural parts get covered up as you go along......thankyou pip
Tomick
#2 Posted : 26 September 2012 17:01:52

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Hi Pip,

The hull will be planked, therefore no need to paint, and any painting instructions will be advised in the magazine as we go along.
pip
#3 Posted : 26 September 2012 17:03:06

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thankyou, ive doing plastic kits for years, new to wood, but looking forward to it very much
Tomick
#4 Posted : 26 September 2012 17:24:08

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No problem, and welcome to the forum Cool
Ron
#5 Posted : 30 September 2012 11:41:52

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Location: Cornwall UK
Blocks for cannons making,issue 4 shows the items required illustration 10 but the eye bolts do not appear to be used ,3 where used in issue 2 for the second cannon ??am i daft or what
court orchard
#6 Posted : 30 September 2012 11:49:38

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Have a look at Mr T's official build, all will become clear.
Andy

Building:Samurai Armour, SOTS, Victory X-Section, Bismarck, D51
Finished:WW I Bavarian NCO, Caldercraft HM Bark Endeavour FFG 58 Samuel B Roberts,
Ron
#7 Posted : 30 September 2012 12:06:47

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Thanks Andy, as new to this Forum did not relize that there is a complete diary by Mr T of the build ,all is clear now ,thanks for your input ,76 yrs old and not as quick with things as i used to be but brain is still intacked,the diary will be a great help to me regards Ron
court orchard
#8 Posted : 30 September 2012 12:14:03

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You're welcome. Cool
Andy

Building:Samurai Armour, SOTS, Victory X-Section, Bismarck, D51
Finished:WW I Bavarian NCO, Caldercraft HM Bark Endeavour FFG 58 Samuel B Roberts,
Tomick
#9 Posted : 30 September 2012 12:17:37

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Welcome to the forum Ron Cool

You'll often discover that some parts may not be used in each issue, which should be carefully stored until the time comes to bring them into play, also retain any remaining wood strips.
Hector
#10 Posted : 25 October 2012 12:26:32

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hey guys,wonder if anyone can help

My baseboard is warped,really dissapointed in myself for not seeing this but,well i didnt and now i need to remove 3-4 ribs.i've tried soaking them and they won't move i'm using Duo,water resistant interior/exterior pva(has anyone else used this and managed to remove it?)

I'm now thinking of cutting the rib off either side of the keel and rebuilding themCrying

Any help or advice would be most welcome

Thanks
Rich
Tell me the truth,I shall not offend nor be offended

Sillvestra
#11 Posted : 25 October 2012 13:11:07

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Have you tried soaking them in a bath of hot water? Some glues take longer to weaken, particularly glues for exterior use. If a hot bath doesn't work, try steaming them as an alternative as other builders have had success with both methods.

If you do manage to release them, you may find it beneficial to change to a plain interior pva glue which will allow you to rectify problems easier and quicker. I use a fast drying interior pva wood glue from B & Q.
Andy

Current Builds:
- HMS Sovereign of the Seas

Planning on Building:
- Scratch built HMS Victory full detail interior (I know what's inside even if you can't see it BigGrin)

Completed Builds:
-
Hector
#12 Posted : 25 October 2012 13:16:17

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Thanks Andy,i was trying to avoid a full soak but i now find the problem is in the keel so its a full strip down.
I think i'll try make a steam chamber to fit the whole thing in then the full bath soak,if all goes wrong gonna order the back issues and start again.........at least i'll have a collection of spares for my next screw-up:)
Tell me the truth,I shall not offend nor be offended

Sillvestra
#13 Posted : 25 October 2012 14:45:57

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Before you soak or steam you model, ensure you have a suitable press of sorts to put the parts in to keep them flat and prevent warping while they dry. Two large floor tiles are a common choice with a number of weights on top. The last thing you want to have to deal with after fighting your model apart is warped parts...
Andy

Current Builds:
- HMS Sovereign of the Seas

Planning on Building:
- Scratch built HMS Victory full detail interior (I know what's inside even if you can't see it BigGrin)

Completed Builds:
-
saintsman123
#14 Posted : 25 October 2012 14:52:41

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once you soak or steam it try getting a thin blade in between the side joints, this might be enough to loosen the whole rib.
Come on you Jimmies
Hector
#15 Posted : 25 October 2012 19:22:27

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OK well i took the head off my wall paper stripper,put the 22mm whole saw through a plastic stacking storage box and glued the paper stripper hose into the box,few minutes in there and the ribs were falling off,have them drying in a press.Very upsetting to have to do it but lessons learned.Now all being well they are going to dry ok and i can start again,probably with a new baseboard,the pine "shelf type"board i'm using is a long way off straight but i have a lip on my work table that prevented me from seeing it rise in the middle,also my work space is next to the window and a radiator so between the damp mornings and the heating on at night i think i'm going to have to keep a close eye on things.

If i can think of anything else to blame other than me i'll be sure to add themBigGrin

Tell me the truth,I shall not offend nor be offended

Sillvestra
#16 Posted : 26 October 2012 12:59:10

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Location: Peterborough, Cambs
I also found my pine shelf base board had started to warp - luckily I had enough desk space to clamp it flat so now it's back to true... Keeping a close eye on it now...

The material of choice seems to be an mdf shelf as it has less tendency to warping - although the radiator positioning won't help...

Congrats on the diy steaming unit ThumpUp
Andy

Current Builds:
- HMS Sovereign of the Seas

Planning on Building:
- Scratch built HMS Victory full detail interior (I know what's inside even if you can't see it BigGrin)

Completed Builds:
-
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