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karl1113 wrote:I personally keep powertools well away from the delicate work,I'm much to clumsy,I use sandpaper on a piece of planking,several grades,and fair very gently,takes about an hour or so.also have dowel stick with stuck on sandpaper for the curved bits. Thanks Karl, finding lots of tips and ideas here, just couldn't believe how fragile the launch ribs really were... delicate work requiring lots of patience and a gentle hand... so far so good though... Agree with powertools though, need to do some practice work first I think..... Alan
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claret wrote:Hi Alan,
Looks excellent, the balsa work and fairing is bril!
Regards Claret
Appreciate the nice comments Claret... lot of work but would recommend it for easier planking and of course making the hull more sturdy..... am following your diary and do like what I see... Alan
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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I've found the Dremel invaluable for sanding work on fine detail. It's true that it's dangerous if you don't take enough care. But if I've done far more damage over the years with hand tools. For example, cleats on yards, I struggled to taper these off yard with the wood more often than not spliting. It was so much easier to taper them in situ with the Dremel.
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court orchard wrote:I've found the Dremel invaluable for sanding work on fine detail. It's true that it's dangerous if you don't take enough care. But if I've done far more damage over the years with hand tools. For example, cleats on yards, I struggled to taper these off yard with the wood more often than not spliting. It was so much easier to taper them in situ with the Dremel. Interesting Andy, I will give it some practice and let you know how I get on..... should be fun if nothing else.... Alan
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Fortes fortuna juvat
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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don't misunderstand me,I use powertools a lot.but those meant for the job,i.e. proxxon fret saw,saw table,lathe,plus the unimat-1 multi tool.which has a millimg machine,lathe,sander,drill,jig saw,all have there place,if you can use a sledgehammer to put in a brass tack you are skilful indeed,and admire you for it,but I tend to be a bit heavy handed in my old age and have to be careful.btw,if you go to index you will find powertools there. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Didn't mean to crticise Karl, I have found miniature power tools better in certain situations, horses for courses, just trying to offer options which may not suit everyone.
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No misunderstanding here Karl, appreciate all the tips and advice I can get as a novice. I too use powertools, just never tried them on delicate pieces so intend to have a practice with the dremel. Sort of hoping Santa will be good to me with a Unimat 1... or at least hope the wife will be good to me... will have to be on my best behaviour from here on in.....
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Unimat!! You'll have to be very good indeed.
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court orchard wrote:Unimat!! You'll have to be very good indeed.  .. 36 years of grovelling so think I have mastered the art by now.... Alan
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Spent some time very gingerly fairing the hull of the launch using nothing more than a fine grain emery board and lots of patience..  .. Think I am just about ready to have a go at fitting my first plank... Will post photo's of my planking attempt soon.. In the meantime here are the images of the faired hull.... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi Alan Everything looks good  Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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MWG wrote:Hi Alan Everything looks good  Regards Mike Thanks Mike... first plank should be fun...looking forward to it.... Alan
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First experience of planking has now got underway, have now laid the first plank on either side of the launch. Used an electric plank bender and have to say it worked very well with little effort. Plank set in place using superglue gel.... Now ready to continue when issue 11 comes out and Mr T has done the next session of his official build diary.... Looking forward to seeing what comes next....  .. Hope you like the pics.... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Not a happy chappy right now.... warped bow spirit received in issue 10 came out of the glass press earlier tonight all dry and flat..... looked at it now and it has warped worse than it was..after just 2 hours...  .... all the other parts have remained flat.... Looks like plan B tomorrow evening, that being a wet tea towel and a hot steam iron.... I know if I fitted it just now the nose of the ship would be pointing to port...  ... Oh the joys of model ship making eh..... Update on progress tomorrow.....
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2012 Posts: 82 Points: 232 Location: Peterborough, Cambs
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How long did you leave it to dry? Any parts that I've soaked and put in to press have always been left for at least 72 hours to fully dry... Andy Current Builds: - HMS Sovereign of the Seas Planning on Building: - Scratch built HMS Victory full detail interior (I know what's inside even if you can't see it  ) Completed Builds: -
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Sillvestra wrote:How long did you leave it to dry? Any parts that I've soaked and put in to press have always been left for at least 72 hours to fully dry... Hi Sillvestra, parts had been in the press for approx 96 hours... was badly warped to start with.. Just have to go back to the drawing board and try again.... Alan
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Have now treated the warped bow spirit to a wet tea towel and a hefty going over with a hot steam iron..... Definately an improvement but think it is going to take a few goings over before it is fit for the ship.... Back in the glass press and will check again later.... Hot steam iron appears to be a good way of dealing with badly warped pieces...
Alan
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/08/2011 Posts: 480 Points: 1,421 Location: Galway
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She looks great a credit to your effort
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2012 Posts: 651 Points: 1,903 Location: croydon
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Hi Alan. Your build is coming on greatly now. Best regards. Mark
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