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Polishing....any ideas?! Also...how I fixed the gap issue! Options
roywhitworth
#1 Posted : 17 November 2012 04:21:21

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Hi Guys! So I've stuck with it and apart from a few hiccups I've completed 95% of my build, now the problem I have is I suffer quite badly with Sweaty-Hand-Itis and have therefore got a few fingerprints over the silver paintwork. I'm not too worried about the Rocket Red stuff as this paint is somewhat more forgiving with fingerprints, anyway I need suggestions of what sort of cloth and what, if anything I can use to rid my lovely McLaren of sweaty paw prints? I've tried the 'ol blowing hot breath with a soft cloth but I just ended up with big smudges, I want to get it all ready for decals but need rid of these first, my car is UN-glossed because I simply couldn't be naffed finding gloss, spraying, needing good weather to spray in, masking, etc, etc...... On an interesting side note I also had the dreaded sidepod and engine cover gap problem but what I did is a tad excessive and if you want to try it do so at your OWN risk.....I took off the engine and sidepod covers then with a scalpel VERY carefully but with some pressure I prised the side off the car, the bit with Vodafone on it, I took the scalpel blade and trimmed where the suspension sits to ensure there was enough clearance and that it sat fully home with no gaps, I then got a syringe of Araldite Red, the five min stuff and glued the side back on clamping it with my hands at the bottom edge with great emphasis on getting it all square where the flip- up sits on top, anyway after numb fingers and a dry fit of the panels back in place what was a 2mm+ gap had all but gone completely! I can't post pictures as I browse on my iPhone and I don't think I can but yeah thought I'd add my two pence to the cooking pot, also if anyone tries this let me know if it works out for you

Many thanks

Roy
Cool
Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
schueyking
#2 Posted : 17 November 2012 11:54:13

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BigGrin Cheers Roy! I am not that far yet, as my build is on hold. But thanks for the tip! Everyone has there own idea on how to solve the 'gap' problem, but if it works for you then that is a bonus!

Regards,
ChrisBigGrin
SennaMentalMe
#3 Posted : 17 November 2012 12:18:00

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Hello Roy,

Fingerprints are a result of the oils that are present in our sweat. The best way to avoid them in the first place is to wear a pair of 'Lint-free' gloves when handling the painted parts and then you won't end up with the problem you have? Having got your problem, the best way to remove them is to go and buy some of those Lint-free gloves (they are cheap enough on ebay) that they use when assembling electronics and suchlike and be sure to wear them whilst cleaning the existing fingerprints from the model. You will also need a clean 'Lint-free' cloth and some very mild washing up liquid/water solution with which you dampen the cloth (Not wet or really soapy, just damp). The detergent in the solution will erase the fingerprints and then you can just polish the model with whatever wax/polish/clearcoat you want to use after it is completely dry? But make sure you wear those Lint-free gloves the whole time you handle the model whilst cleaning otherwise you'll be right back where you started!! Be careful if you have added any aftermarket decals to where you want to clean as you might damage them if you are too rough with a damp cloth. The prepainted logos on the standard model parts shouldn't be affected.

Hope that helps??

An interesting solution to the gap problem by the way!!

Kev BigGrin
roywhitworth
#4 Posted : 17 November 2012 12:54:01

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Thanks Kev just the solution I was looking for! BigGrin

Roy
Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
roywhitworth
#5 Posted : 18 November 2012 04:28:29

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schueyking wrote:
BigGrin Cheers Roy! I am not that far yet, as my build is on hold. But thanks for the tip! Everyone has there own idea on how to solve the 'gap' problem, but if it works for you then that is a bonus!

Regards,
ChrisBigGrin



Welcome Chris, I'm in the process of doing the other side of the car now so if this solves it completely ill let you know, always good to gather intel ;)

Roy
Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
roywhitworth
#6 Posted : 22 November 2012 02:54:01

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Quick question if I may.....micromesh, would a quick polish with micromesh be a no no? Would it ruin my paint? Just curious as to other ways of doing things :)

Thanks

Roy
Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
Warthog
#7 Posted : 22 November 2012 10:29:31

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roywhitworth wrote:
Quick question if I may.....micromesh, would a quick polish with micromesh be a no no? Would it ruin my paint? Just curious as to other ways of doing things :)

Thanks

Roy


Hi Roy,

I have done a few tests over the original silver with micromesh using the 12000 grit only... with a light rub using water and keeping away from any of the "edges/mould lines) you can get a slightly different finish but for the effort and the possibility of damaging the paint I would leave alone in my opinion mate..

I will post some pictures up of a build I am doing for someone where I have blended in the Alclad Chrome with the Original as a repair and the results are fery good..

Spencer
roywhitworth
#8 Posted : 25 November 2012 03:21:00

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Cheers Spencer!

With regard to the panel fit problem it appears to me the the side cowl, the bit with Vodafone on it is too wide at the top, the whole side of the car on both sides needs to come up a milimeter or two. So even if I ajusted the engine cover the sidepod tops still wont sit flush. Anyone got a proper fix yet?

Roy
Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
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