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Planking and Superglue Options
syd4444
#1 Posted : 31 January 2013 14:55:21

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Is there any reason why we don't just use superglue to plank the hull. At my age (60+) and this being my first build, I'm finding it a bit of as struggle with the fiddly little pins.
court orchard
#2 Posted : 31 January 2013 15:16:45

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It's not a good idea to use CA (Superglue) for joints that are under strain, flex or might move. It's very brittle when set and can crack and give way, whereas PVA type wood glues can flex and give a little. You may find the planks popping off in a few months time. Wood, of course, is a natural material and will expand and contract or swell and shrink under normal temperature and humidity variations. Also the fast setting CA is extremely thin and is no good on porous materials (particularly plywood edges) where it will wick away in an instant, leaving no glue at the joint. There are thicker slower setting CA's but these would still need pinning.
Andy

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syd4444
#3 Posted : 31 January 2013 15:27:24

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Thanks Andy, I can understand what you're saying. Back to the fiddly pins againAngry I'm sure I'll get through it.
court orchard
#4 Posted : 31 January 2013 15:45:31

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Don't worry Syd, I still remember the same feeling when I planked my 1st Ship. There's no rush and I still find it depends on the day and mood I'm in as to how fiddly it feels, my floor is littered with pins I've dropped. Have you got a small pin pusher? As these make it much simpler to handle the pins. As with all things, it gets so much easier the more often you do it.
Andy

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pemberg
#5 Posted : 31 January 2013 16:03:20

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I have used joiners mate (mitre bond) which is a thick CA and an activator (in either aerosol or pen type depending on make)designed for joiners making picture frames etc..

I apply the activator to the plank and the glue to the frame and use PVA along the edge of the last plank already fitted to the hull. I usually apply the glue to one or two frames at a time using a disecting needle ( a piece of bent wire would do) and then hold the plank in place for a few seconds.

You need to be precise in the positioning of the plank as when using the activator the set is almost instant. I have found that even just using the glue on its own you only need to apply pressure for about 10 seconds to get a good grip. Once set you just gently bend the plank away from the next frame, apply the glue and so on.

I have used this method on the Bismark, Endeavour, San Francisco II and currently on the Victory and will be on the SOTS.

Graeme

court orchard
#6 Posted : 31 January 2013 16:08:22

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That's an interesting technique Graeme. I might give that a try.
Andy

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moriarty
#7 Posted : 31 January 2013 16:09:47

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It dont matter so much on the first layer of planking but the second is a big deal. Then it all depends on the finish you are going to do on the second plank layer,ie coppering, trenail or a paint or varnish.I usually glue with a medium to thick superglue on the second layer, but caution will have to dominate if you are a beginner or novice. Dry fitting and pre drilling the holes worksBigGrin .
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pemberg
#8 Posted : 31 January 2013 16:21:40

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To clarify, the method I quoted is only for the first layer of planking. If the second layer is wood I usually just use PVA and if copper tiles i would use CA.

Graeme
syd4444
#9 Posted : 31 January 2013 16:25:35

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court orchard wrote:
Don't worry Syd, I still remember the same feeling when I planked my 1st Ship. There's no rush and I still find it depends on the day and mood I'm in as to how fiddly it feels, my floor is littered with pins I've dropped. Have you got a small pin pusher? As these make it much simpler to handle the pins. As with all things, it gets so much easier the more often you do it.



I've been using a small pin pusher and been drilling pilot holes in the planks. I'm finding the bamboo a bit brittle to work with but as they say practice makes perfect.

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