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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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At last I can begin where I left off, but as I was working I came up with a few new tools and jigs that could be worth hanging onto for the Victory build. The Tool - Simple razor blade and a cork, this helps cutting very small bits of wood, just use a saw (I have a razor saw) to cut the cork and slip the blade in, please be careful. I holds well in the hand and not bulky or too small, just right.   The Jig - This was made from a scrap of wood with holes drilled to take the ends of small alligator clips, stick them in, then add the wooden pegs, this holds the Yards nice and tight, hands free work.  ..and finaly sanding sticks, the picture tells all really, various different grit levels, stuck on with wood glue and and hole drilled to hook 'em up.  Its good to get back into this. See my post in the diaries sections for other pictures of my yard work today.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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Hi Zep, how do you hold planking for tapering, and what do you do it with?  I'm having problems with tools following the grain and splitting across the plank.  If I do it with the grain at one end I screw up at the other.  I've tried knife, David's plane, and sandpaper seems to be the only way, but it's slow and not very accurate. I'm thinking of clamping several planks that require the same taper, between steel rulers and sanding down to the ruler edge. Would be interested in your technique. 
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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I think you may of hit it with your last sentence Quote:I'm thinking of clamping several planks that require the same taper, between steel rulers and sanding down to the ruler edge Do as you said, clamp a few of them but make a JIG! (again) out of wood, make it solid, with the planks to be tapered, add more battoning either side and hold that form with some clamps. See a version here, just make it out of wood. http://modelshipworld.co...B2/viewtopic.php?t=9691
http://modelshipworld.co...50c98d2df3411eb04bb3bda
either sand or chisel, I'd prefer to sand.
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Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Great stuff; Resourceful AND cheap. Way to go!  Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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Thanks Zep. The first jig looks like some serious engineering.  Nice but a project in it's self. Perhaps when I eventually afford that milling machine.  The second one was exactly how I was thinking, but with a little more sophistication in the name of accuracy and ease of adjustment.  I'll keep you posted when I get back from the drawing office.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 188 Points: 614 Location: Llandudno
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Nice one zep. Top info as usual. Bob
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 85 Points: 230 Location: rotherham
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Nice handy tips cheers john HMS VICTORY
HMS SURPRISE
ASTON DB5
MCLAREN MP4-23
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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Tarbrush wrote:Hi Zep, how do you hold planking for tapering, and what do you do it with? I'm having problems with tools following the grain and splitting across the plank. If I do it with the grain at one end I screw up at the other. I've tried knife, David's plane, and sandpaper seems to be the only way, but it's slow and not very accurate. I'm thinking of clamping several planks that require the same taper, between steel rulers and sanding down to the ruler edge. Would be interested in your technique. i use the David's but in a different way i hold the plane in the left hand upside down the plank in the right with my fore finger on top of the plank and draw the plank across the plane keeping the plane steady do not need to press hard just enouth to keep the plank on the bottom surface off the plane also set blade for best cut
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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Hi Willie. Sounds a bit dodgy, a bit like a chef's mandolin. How often do you taper a finger? My latest efforts with a good sharp modelling knife has worked well
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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Tarbrush wrote:Hi Willie. Sounds a bit dodgy, a bit like a chef's mandolin. How often do you taper a finger? My latest efforts with a good sharp modelling knife has worked well never cut my self yet have done when the knifes slip keep the blade low so you dont take off to much and when you draw back your finger is behinde the blade ps if you cut your finger you have taken to much wood off 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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