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Pinning question Options
RobT
#1 Posted : 16 February 2013 18:41:44

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Mr T's build seem to differ slightly from the mag so I want to double check. Exactly which pins remain when glue has dried?

Is it the first and last of each strip or just the final 3 frames of the stern?
Tomick
#2 Posted : 16 February 2013 19:26:44

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Where the strips butt and the last three frames..
RobT
#3 Posted : 16 February 2013 19:39:44

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Thanks. Is it normal to have to predrill the planks? The pins are just bending when pushed.
arpurchase
#4 Posted : 16 February 2013 20:24:37

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With bamboo other builders have found pre drilling a must to prevent the bamboo splitting, as for the pins bending they will bend in any wood if you don't push them in straight every time, with practice u will bend less . Hope this helps
Andy
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Gandale
#5 Posted : 16 February 2013 20:44:03

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Rob, I have found it a must to predrill with a .5mm drill... Helps to stop the bamboo splitting and it also helps to stop the pins bending.... I don't use a pin pusher, I use long nose pliers to push the pin into the predrilled hole just far enough to take hold then use a small hammer to finish..... Couldn't take to a pin pusher.... you will soon find you own method.... Good luck...

Regards

Alan
RobT
#6 Posted : 16 February 2013 21:12:30

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Cheers.

It gets to a point where i'm pushing so hard i'm worried it's going to break the ship.

However, drilling all them holes by hand seems a very long task. I wonder if it's possible to buy small adaptors, so I can use a drill bit with my small electric screwdriver.
catman275
#7 Posted : 16 February 2013 22:17:15

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Hi Rob,
Do a search for a "hex drill chuck" you will find plenty on e-bay and Amazon. I bought one quite recently.

Check to see what the smallest size bit they take.



cheers Peter
completed..... Endeavour Longboat, San Francisco 2, Virginia 1819

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delboy271155
#8 Posted : 17 February 2013 10:34:26
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catman275 wrote:
Hi Rob,
Do a search for a "hex drill chuck" you will find plenty on e-bay and Amazon. I bought one quite recently.

Check to see what the smallest size bit they take.



cheers Peter



Hi Rob

Take a look at this one on ebay

Item number: (250890099448)

Takes drill bits from 0 - 0.85mm

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Delboy271155
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Plymouth57
#9 Posted : 17 February 2013 14:09:55

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Hi RobT

Personally I prefer to use a pin vice (see below) its much more controllable than a power drill and less likely to 'skid' across the planks.
The handle breaks down into three sections with a selection of different chucks inside. Most model shops will have them or try ebay and Hobby's Annual, roughly a fiver or so in cost.

Robin
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
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First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
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RobT
#10 Posted : 17 February 2013 15:31:34

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I have one but for the life of me I cant get it to grab the drill bits properly.

Anyway, I went to B&Q. I found something called a Dremel multi chuck which does the job superbly. Obviously not on my screwdriver, but on my Dremel. Like a knife through butter.
Tomick
#11 Posted : 17 February 2013 16:32:49

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Have you tried unscrewing the chuck and turning the collet end over end, as one end has a larger collect bore than the other..
RobT
#12 Posted : 17 February 2013 16:46:22

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Yes, tried that, but it just doesn't seem to want to grip the drill bits.
delboy271155
#13 Posted : 17 February 2013 18:05:13
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[quote=RobT]Yes, tried that, but it just doesn't seem to want to grip the drill bits.[/quote

Hi all
Have had the same problem with a miniature hand drill, but cured the problem with a piece of very thin card between the spindle and the outer sleeve, it gives a tighter clamp on the inner spindle .

Hope this may help

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Delboy271155
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Plymouth57
#14 Posted : 17 February 2013 20:55:14

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It's really strange but after years of perfect drilling my own pin vice suddenly stopped gripping the smallest drill bits, about 0.7mm or thereabouts. I managed to get over it by cutting a 1cm length of thin plastic insulation from a bit of 7/.02mm wire and (with some effort) slipped it over the drill shank. Works fine now but why it suddenly went like that I've no idea!Confused Might also work (and easier) with very thin heat shrink as well.

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Rightway1512
#15 Posted : 18 February 2013 23:07:07

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Hi Rob,
I had the same problem with finding something small enough to hold the drill bits, then I found an archimedian drill and found that this works prefectly.

You can get these from any good model shop, I got mine on ebay for about £5.00.
Hope this helps.
Andy M
Tomick
#16 Posted : 18 February 2013 23:28:11

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RobT wrote:
Yes, tried that, but it just doesn't seem to want to grip the drill bits.


I sounds like the chuck has flared, so that when it is tightened the collet does not nip up.
Time for a new one but possibly of another type., I have found the Citadell pin drill to be superb quality and nice to use, as it has a rubber head and twist grip, generally found at Games Workshop..
luigione
#17 Posted : 19 February 2013 23:57:24

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I'm using one of these, brilliant for the job

http://www.maplin.co.uk/archimedean-drill-219910
willz
#18 Posted : 20 February 2013 00:29:30

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I just snip the head off one of the pins and put it in my cordless drill, have to be steady so as not to bend the pin

willz attached the following image(s):
pin.jpg
Martyn Ingram
#19 Posted : 20 February 2013 16:33:02

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I have used a pin drill witch works well
Building ?
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Blev
#20 Posted : 22 February 2013 10:52:00

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Hi,

I come from railway modelling where this is one of the main tool suppliers used. Cost-effective, fast and reliable.

http://www.squirestools.com

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